tuning for longtubes??? o2 location screw things up??
#1
tuning for longtubes??? o2 location screw things up??
does the o2 location on the longtubes cause the o'2 to read unaccurate...
meaning when I put on longtubes can I still follow the LTFT/STFT stuff or do
I count those readings as false...
and if they are off...which way will they be off...will it be making the car lean or rich?? and are there any good methods of correcting this if they are wrong
meaning when I put on longtubes can I still follow the LTFT/STFT stuff or do
I count those readings as false...
and if they are off...which way will they be off...will it be making the car lean or rich?? and are there any good methods of correcting this if they are wrong
#2
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They will be less trustworthy at low exhaust flows.
You might or might not get 'vette rear O2s to work
for you. Depends on the header (coated will stay
hotter than bare stainless, etc.), your environment
(Arizona summer vs Chicago winter) and like that.
What you'll see, if you have a heat problem, is your
STFTs ramping up as you sit at idle and cool off,
eventually kicking your LTFTs, and STFTs ramping
down if you are cruising in the same FTC but making
more heat.
If your STFTs seem to jitter around a center, sane
value under all conditions then you can assume the
O2s are working well enough.
The best indication of the O2s general happiness though
is the way they switch. Look at the logs traces at idle
and see if the waveform is symmetric and faster than one
crossing of 0.5V every 10 frames (1 sec). If the waveform
is mostly low with an occasional high reading, the sensor
is near comatose and all trimming based on it is suspect.
You might or might not get 'vette rear O2s to work
for you. Depends on the header (coated will stay
hotter than bare stainless, etc.), your environment
(Arizona summer vs Chicago winter) and like that.
What you'll see, if you have a heat problem, is your
STFTs ramping up as you sit at idle and cool off,
eventually kicking your LTFTs, and STFTs ramping
down if you are cruising in the same FTC but making
more heat.
If your STFTs seem to jitter around a center, sane
value under all conditions then you can assume the
O2s are working well enough.
The best indication of the O2s general happiness though
is the way they switch. Look at the logs traces at idle
and see if the waveform is symmetric and faster than one
crossing of 0.5V every 10 frames (1 sec). If the waveform
is mostly low with an occasional high reading, the sensor
is near comatose and all trimming based on it is suspect.