BigSteele

iTrader: (17)

I installed everything and bleed the lines as best I could, and the car wont go into gear. I was thinking there was still air in the line but I bought a Mityvac and got a bunch out of air out of the reservor. I bleed the slave too (normal method). Its a new slave so I guess there was a lot of air to begin with.
The clutch pedal is pretty stiff. Its kind of easy at very top, then hits a stiff part, and that resistance goes down to the floor.

I put the car in gear and started it, and then pushed the clutch in all the way then applied the brakes. The clutch did not slip, the engine just started to die.

Is it possible something else is worng or do I just need to keep bleeding the slave more?

Is there a way to check to see if the slave is moving correctly?

Vertigo

iTrader: (1)

Your clutch isn't fully disengaging...Did you shim your flywheel or shim the slave cylinder? That's my best guess

slow14U

I'm having the same problem. As I type this, my hands are still dirty from installing, bleeding and finishing the textralia install. Problem is it won't go into gear. I will post up if I get the chance whenever I figure out what the problem is. I think it is eaither bad slave, air in the hydraulics, or I might need to install a spacer. I should of just kept my original slave in it, it was working fine.

BigSteele

iTrader: (17)

well it sounds like we are doing the same thing and having the same problem
I was wondering about the spacer/shim thing but I dont think the textralia setup is made to use one; so I figured it's some other problem, either air or some problem with the slave functioning

AW794

iTrader: (7)

I already asked, and they said no shim

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/327094-textrailia-clutch-install-questoion.html

LS1x2

iTrader: (11)

Your clutch disk is dragging. If you used the mityvac method to bleed the clutch you should be positive it is bled right because you can see the bubbles go sway. So if the hydraulics are bled right you have a clearance issue with the disk and/or pressure plate/flywheel.

BigSteele

iTrader: (17)

Well Im pretty sure I got just about all the air out.

How would the clutch be dragging, is there some way to check this?
I used the intall tool, then positioned the PP over it and put the bolts in, then I jiggled the intall tool/disk to re center it and then turned the bolts so the PP was almost flush with the FW (the PP being under tension) then torqued the bolts in the 3 stage sequence.

The disk should be so that the springs/raised center part is facing the transmission, like this right?


The slave should be assembled and bolted to the tranny, and then just raise/slide the tranny shaft into the clutch splines, right?

BigSteele

iTrader: (17)

Heres 2 more pics of the install

SLPformula

iTrader: (3)

You need to shim it. I believe. Thats waht it sounds like.
They cover that in here, sounds similar to you problem.\
http://installuniversity.com/install...ch_install.htm

KingSS

iTrader: (1)

I just recently did an install on a stage III ram clutch on my car and we ran into something of the same problem. When you turn the car on and try and put the car in first gear does the car kind of edge forward even though the clutch is all the way in? If that is the case you will need to get an adjustable master cylinder because the clutch is not disengaging all the way. I did this and it works perfectly now but it might be different for your clutch.

BigSteele

iTrader: (17)

My problem is that the clutch never disengages, if the car is running I cant shift from neutral to 1st. I can put the car in gear and then turn the engine on, and when I push the clutch pedal in, and apply brakes, the engine dies (the clutch is not releasing)

The car is on jackstands btw, not on the ground.

I guess I need a shim, but Ill have to talk to textralia about it

A_W_O_L

iTrader: (2)

I have the OZ700 also and you dont have to shim it......My clutch drags a little too, but it's because i cant get all the #$%^&@* air out of it. I know that it's air, because sometimes it's great, other times I grind a gear.

By dragging we mean that it is not fully disengaging, that the Clutch disk is actually still dragging across the flywheel surface. This is what is happening with mine....but yours sounds like you have ALOT of air in yours still. This is why you cannot put it into gear while the engine is running. I thought mine was manufacturing air somehow

Since we are on the subject and Ive tried just about everything else, What is everyone using to reverse bleed? and by that I mean what are yall actually using AT THE BLEADER??? is it a piece of tubing going over the outer part of the bleeder, or is it a special tip from the mity-vac kit that you are fitting inside the bleeder hole???

After you get the air out of your OZ clutch, you won't regret your choice. I LOVE mine. I just have a little (and i do mean little) bit of air that i still havnt managed to get out yet. Peter and Jeff are great guys, If it would make you feel better send Peter a PM or call him, It's an 800 number (pm me if you need it...just remember that they are in a completly different time zone from us, so call in the afternoon.) so it will not cost you anything to call. I really liked doing business with them btw, they want the clutch to work just as much as you or I would.

BigSteele

iTrader: (17)

I hadn't been doing that, I just had a friend pump the pedal, hold it in, while I loosened the bleeder then screwed it back in, at first I heard "air bubbles" for awhile but then I just started getting a pretty clean flow of fluid. I did this about 6 times btw.

I was going to try to hook the mityvac up to the bleeder with a 90' elbow and the little needle fitting, but I was worried about air entering the bleeder when the vacuum is removed and you try to screw it in.

If you unscrew the bleeder with the pedal out, the system should "gravity" bleed right? so it I used a vac on the bleeder (to assist) I could wait untill the vac goes away, then slowly push the pedal as I tighten the bleeder... sound good?

This probably still wont be as effective as having a lot of vacuum to suck the bubbles out, how would you "pressure" vacuum bleed with the bleeder like the reservor? without letting air back in the bleeder

slow14U

I will try every way there is to bleed the slave without pulling the transmission, but if it doesn't work, like it doesn't seem to be working on yours, I will pull the trans and bleed the slave separetly by connecting it to the hyd. line and holding the slave, after I remove it from the trans, so the bubbles float out the bleeder. I will be in touch with Peter on this option before I do it though to see if he agrees that it will be effective. My point is that I want the slave to be blead without any question. I don't think it is possible to "fully" bleed the slave with it in the trans, and the trans bolted in. If I am wrong, please feel free to correct me.

BigSteele

iTrader: (17)

Yeah thats what Im thinking too, and I dont really want to pull the tranny again if theres any way around it. Im real busy this weekend so Ive only have small time intervals to work on it, and 1/4 that time is spent cleaning myself up. Im going to call textralia later after it is more of a better time for them.

keep me posted on what you are trying/ how it worked

Griswold

iTrader: (5)

did you remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it? you have the same symptoms that we had with a friend of mines clutch install. We thought we had bled the master well enough on the car but then once hooked up to the slave it did the same thing you are getting. You might try removing the master and bleeding it out of the car just so you know it is bled perfect for sure. Then all you will have to do is bleed the air out of the slave, which shouldn't take long at all. Just a thought.

BigSteele

iTrader: (17)

I didnt bench bleed it with the mityvac, I didnt replace the MC so it allready had fluid in it , I just held the lines up and turned the MC all around so any air bubles should have a chance to escape, then I held the reservor higher than the quick disc. and depressed the "button" so some fluid came out of the connector. I later bought a mityvac and did it to the MC through the reservor, went up to 25 in/mg. and got lots of good sized bubbles out, so I assumed I got the MC bleed good.

slow14U

No luck here. I worked with Peter over the phone and took some measurments with the trans. out and the slave off the trans. All measurments were good. Put everything back together, but this time I used my old slave and assumed it would work w/that. Well, it didn't. It did the same exact thing. I also tested the master, after everything was put back together. I took the slave that came w/the clutch, and hooked it to the quick dissconnect to see if the seal would blow when I pressed the clutch pedal down. This was Peter's idea, and it blew the seal, but no problem, it goes back together very eaisly. That tells me that the master cylinder is working. Next, I hooke the quick dissconnect back to the slave in the car, and with everything together, I focused my attention on the pedal pressure. It is the same the second time around. The only thing me and Peter can think it can be is air in the slave. So next time I get a chance, I will have a friend over here to bleed the ever living crap out of the it.

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

Honestly people, it shouldn't be that difficult to get the thing to work. I have installed a lot of different clutches and if you don't replace the MC(bench bleed is a must w/MC install) it shouldn't take much bleeding to get the system to work properly. Over time the remaining air will work it's way up to the reservoir and out through that small vent hole on top of the reservoir cap. It really sounds like you're going to need a shim behind the slave. Probably just a few thousands of an inch off and that's just enough to drag on the flywheel.

slow14U

I should of included that I did indeed bench bleed the m/c. Sorry. I also learned that you don't need a shim unless your blowing out your seal in your slave resulting in dumping your hydraulics into your bellhousing. This is applying to this clutch, but will not happen. The distance from the top of the fingers on the pressure plate to the spline input on the friction plate is the same as stock. I don't know what it is for spec, but I never needed a spacer for any of the three spec's i've been thru. I now know that spacers aren't needed unless the distance previously mentioned is different for any perticular clutch application.