marcus769

I know the very basics of how N20 works.. I dont know the diff between wet/dry, or whats all involved in running with N20.

I have a 1996 Camaro SS 6-speed car with 11,000 miles that i am looking to put NoS on, and dont know where to start. I have trolled this forum to try and gather as much info as i can, and have a few questions still.

Wet or Dry?
i would like a 100 shot (need at least 80 to the wheels)
what type of activation is best? WOT switch, or other types..?
Dont know if i need the window switch (no clue what that is)
I know Tank temp affects the pressure of the system.? may need to heat?
Would a NOS pressure guage be a good investment? Where to put it? I would like it on my pillar pod, is that possible?

Thanks alot for all the help guys!

1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

Im kind of new to the nitrous game too but wet is better cause you are spraying nitrous and fuel so you dont run the engine lean and blow it up. Activation is up to you I am just using the good old WOT switch. Get a bottle heater every time you spray the pressure will drop and the less hp you will get. If you heat it it can raise the temp so you shoot at the same pressure all the time. You can get a nitrous pressure gauge and you can get an a-pilar pod for you car. Check out autometer just my preference.

Matt@HSW

iTrader: (14)

It sorta depends what you want to get out of the car, but it sounds like a wet kit might be a better option for you. Do you have any other mods? Depending on that answer and how much you want to spray you might want to think about a fuel pump. You;ll be okay with either a WOT or a TPS switch. The TPS will read the voltage from the throttle position sensor and activate the N2O kit that way, a WOT switch is an actual switch that is pushed down by the throttle body linkage. Get a window switch. It will activate the nitrous during a set RPM band that you program. Say you set it to turn on at 3000 RPM and off at 5400 RPM, the nitrous will only work in that RPM "window". A bottle heater is another good idea, without one it'll be tough to maintain optional bottle pressure. Just to let you know we are having a sale on nitrous kits. You can read about here if you are interested:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-sales-specials/338442-5-15-off-nitrous-kits-accessories.html

Let us know if you have any other questions!

Matt

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

I think the best kit for you would be the NX MAF kit, and then get the GEN-x2, and a window switch. With these 3 parts you are completely covered on the parts needed to do a clean,safe, upgradable install.



Ricky

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Inputs given are right on. My perspective is how much $$ do you have to spend. Myself, for the beginner I like to recomend a smallish dry kit. Imo, they are easy to install, cheap, very safe, include everything needed to get started and upgradable later to wet or dual stg or other combos. About the dry going lean, on a stock or basicaly stock engine you are fine with fuel system and injectors. The problem guys have with dry is trying to use to big of a hit with out injector upgrade (read: lean). Now when you want more hp a wet kit with fuel pump ungrade will work for sure. One thing for sure though, which ever kit you decide, try to buy froma site vendor as this is what supports this forum.

daryl2cb@yahoo.com

iTrader: (2)

my advise is go big or go home, if you don't have the money for what is the best fit for your car, in my opinion it is the nx maf kit, don't do anything, this is not like building a shed or something, you cut corners here and your done. A 33 dollar fuel pressure saftey switch is the difference between your 11,000 mile motor, and a pile of worthless junk, I personally don't have the money for an engine rebuild so I went the high road and got everything for the safe install, and I have had no problems spraying 150 to my ls1 for over a year now, again it is up to you but you have been warned, cutting corners=blown engine. Good luck, search for information ,it is out there.

Hennytime

iTrader: (33)

i would probably say the dry single noid kit from nitro dave, then get that genx2 and a window switch

ryan23

iTrader: (5)

Since we are on the topic....

I know the basics, I have run nitrous in the past. However I am relatively new to the LSx world. I'm wrapping up my LS1 powered FD (RX-7). Here's the details on the motor:

347
Stock crank, nitrided
Callies Compstar Rods
Mahle pistons/rings, skirts coated, 10.9:1
TEA 5.3 Stage 1.5's
F13 Cam
Comp "R" lifters
Hardened pushrods/stock rockers
LS6 Intake
Speed Inc. Rails
ARP Mains/head studs
1 7/8 headers
HP tuners

Just digging around here, it looks like a 200 shot wouldn't be out of the question? What's a good setup that won't break the bank? I'm not looking for "cheap" quality but I don't want to drop "turbo-kit" money on a nitrous setup. I'd prefer something progressive as the car weighs in @ 2750 LBS

Thanks in advance,

Ryan

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Ryan23, yea man the "Go Big or Stay Home" fits for sure. There are so many kits/combo's to do what you want. Full progressive is nice if the bank can afford it. Dual stage is another opition to split up the torque spike.

Navy David SS

iTrader: (13)

IMO a wet system would be easier to tune, espcially if you hold it under 100 shot. TNT is my preference. With 1 kit, you can adjust from 75 up to 250. Basically you can run the 75 and 100 without my tuning - side note: get all the safety equipment. This system will let you "grow" into it. I started with the 75 shot - same system - will hopefully doing 250 my summer's end.

David

Matt@HSW

iTrader: (14)

Why not go Direct Port then? What intake are you using? If it's the F.A.S.T. just drill and tap. If you don't want to drill and tap you could go with a EFI direct port.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

Ok here is my imput.
The most important things when picking out a nitrous system for your application is QUALITY and SAFETY.
First determan what HP levels you are looking to acheive.Then pick your budget.

Quality playes a big role in getting a reliable nitrous system.You could settle for a NO NAME BRAND system from a company that claims to be the same or you could go with a NAME BRAND system that has a reputation for having great quality and great customer service.Unfortintly you will pay a little more for quality.

Safety is real important.There are safety accessories that you can purchase to help you system fuction properly and safely.

1.The most popular brand systems on the market are from Nitrous Express.
The Most common system is there single nozzle Stage 1 EFI system.This kit comes with jetting from 35 to 150 hp.It can produce up to 250 HP.This system has a single nozzle that plumbs into the bellow.Before the throttle body/after the mass air meter.

2.The next system would be the maff kit.This system has mass air ends that replace the stock mass air ends.In these maff plates there is nitrous provisions.The system comes with a Electronic throttle position sensor for activation.The system comes with jetting up to 150 hp.It can produce up to 250 hp on each side of the plate.The system is also dual stage able.

3.THe dual nozzle system is just like the single nozzle system but has a extra nozzle.This system comes with jetting from 35-300 hp.

4.The directport is for guy that is spraying larger shot of nitrous.I like to suggest anything over a 250 is a good time to start looking into a directport.There are all kinds of set ups from custom to all buissness.

After picking your system look into the accessories.
1.The most needed saftey product is a window switch.
We carry a MSD Digital and a BMN controller.The BMN controller has optional first gear lock out.Great for street applications that are traction limitied.

2.Nitrous Gauge-A must to for knowing what your bottle pressure is.Bottle pressure is a important role in your system fuctioning properly.

3.Bottle Heater-The bottle heater is used to get the bottle pressure up to opperating pressure.Ideal pressure is 900 to 1150 PSI.

4.Purge.The purge can be used for 3 things.When you first use your system there will be air traped in the mainfeed line.You can purge the air out so that when you ingauge your system the nitrous hits and the car does not bogg from going rich.The purge can also be used to purge down bottle pressure incase it is to high.Third it makes for a cool show and get attention.

5.Fuel pressure safety switch.This unit will go on your fuel supply before the fuel solenoid.If the car drops fuel pressure it will kill the ground to the solenoids keeping it from spraying.

6.NHRA Fitting and Blow Down Tube. THis is required at all sactioned tracks in order to pass inspection.THe NHRA Valve is a blow off valve that has a -8 thread on one side so that the blow down tube can screw on.This set up is desighned to evacutae nitrous out of the car incase of a nitrous discharge from the bottle.

7.The remote bottle opener.THis is a nice accessorie.Not a have to have.It makes opening the bottle easy instaed of having to get in and out of the car to open and close the bottle.

8.Switch panel.The switch panel is desighned to make a nice factory looking install without drilling holes all in your car for toggle switches.

Im sure I have overlloked something and probley mispelled everything.Sorry I was in a hurry.

If you have any questions and would like any one on one help feel free to pm me.Be careful when purchasing your nitrous system.There are differences and you get what you pay for.Dont get caught up in a sales pitch.Buy a quality system and enjoy it time and time again.
Thanks
Dave

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

I went back and doug up this from a old post I did.
I hope it helps.
NITROUS SYSTEMS REVIEW
Picking a nitrous system for your fuel injected LS1/LT1 can get confusing.So to help out we have typed a small selection of the most common systems on the market with a description on how they work.I hope this helps.

NITROUS EXPRESS

First.
The single nozzle kit.This kit is the most common system on the market.It comes with the jetting to recieve 35 to 150 HP.With the purchase of extra jets this system can put out 250HP.

Second,
The maff system,
This system is one of the most liked system on the market.It is capable up upgrading to a dual stage and putting out 250Hp on each side of the plate.This system works buy replacing your stock mass air ends.There is a spray bar built into these ends that work just like the shark nozzle.The maff system comes with a electronic TPS switch intead of a machanical microswitch that comes in other systems.This system is liked for its clean install.

Third,
The dual nozzle System.This system uses dual shark nozzles.It comes with horse power settings from 100 to 250 hp.

Fourth,
The dual stage system.This system was desighned for the racer that is spraying a a larger shot and is traction limited.This system is basically two single nozle systems in one.It comes with the jetting to spray 35 to 150 hp on each stage.With the purchase of extra jets it will can produce up to 250 hp on each stage.There are sevral of ways to set up this system.First,You can run the first stage off of the micro switch and the second stage off of a button.Second,You could run both systems off of a micro switch and two different toggle switches.The most common way for the track guys is with a digiset.This is a time delay.The way it works is you wire it in so that after the first stage is activated the second stage will automatically come on after the dealyed time you have programed in.

Fifth,
Another common way of running larger Hp shots with out traction loss is using a nitrous controller.The Maximizer is the most advanced controller on the market.This unit uses a Palm PDA to upload and display the Maximizer information. This is the ONLY unit on the market to date with a built in RPM activated window switch with a gear counting feature, and the first to have a TPS voltage sensing switch to activate and de-activate the system. The Maximizer also has a delay and ramp feature. This unit will ramp up or down for turbo cars, and you can also change the ramp parameters for each gear. Finally, the unit hooks up to your O2’s to read the air/fuel ratio and allows you to cut the nitrous off at any given ratio. You can use this system in juction with any single stage system such as a directport,single nozzle, or maff system.

Sixth,
The Direct port,
This system is common for the racer spraying larger HP levels.A direct port kit injects nitrous and fuel into individual runners.You can individualy tune each cylinder. You can spray larger amounts of nitrous and fuel into the engine more precisly.I do not recommend this system for the common guy sraying under 200 hp.This system normally requires tunning.There are several Direct ports system offered of different styles.We even offer custom show quality direct ports for the guys looking for a little extra style.

TEXAS NITROUS TECHNOLOGIES
First.
The Power Ring System F1.
This system has power gains power adjustable from 75-150 rear wheel horsepower.
This kit comes complete with Power Ring,Two Stainless Nozzles,Stainless N20 & Fuel Solenoids,Solenoid Brackets and screws, Jets, Stainless Braided Hoses, N20 Pressure Gauge, Bottle Nut, 17Ft Main Feed Line,Stainless Bottle Brackets, Micro Switch and Bracket, NHRA Blow Off Valve,And 10Lb Powder Coated Nitrous Bottle.

Second,
The power Ring System F2
This system has power gains adjustable from 100 to 350 HP.
This kit comes complete with Power Ring,Two Stainless Nozzles,Stainless N20 & Fuel Solenoids,Solenoid Brackets and screws, Jets, Stainless Braided Hoses, Nitrous Filter, N20 Pressure Gauge, Bottle Nut, 17Ft Main Feed Line,Stainless Bottle Brackets, Micro Switch and Bracket, NHRA Blow Off Valve,And 10Lb Powder Coated Nitrous Bottle.

Third,
The direct port F4,
This system is adjustable 300-600 Hp.This system is common for the racer spraying larger HP levels.A direct port kit injects nitrous and fuel into individual runners.You can individualy tune each cylinder. You can spray larger amounts of nitrous and fuel into the engine more precisly.

ZEX
Zex Offers one System for the LS1.This system comes adjustable 75 to 125 hp.The system will produce up to 200 hp with the purchase of extra needed jets.

Zex also offers a Dry system for the LT1.It works buy adding the extra needed fuel thru the fuel injectors.All major components are contained in the ZEX™ 'NMU', which means you won't have any unsightly solenoids or wiring.This system uses actual bottle pressure to regulate the nitrous to fuel ratio.This system has a built in TPs switch . The Zex Dry Kits will only work with vehicles with a port fuel injected engine with a return style fuel system.

NITROUS OUTLET SYSTEMS
This is our Inhouse Brand.All components in these systems are purchased from Nitrous Express.We offer several systems at this time.

First
Stage 1 Wet system
This system is adjustable from 35 to 150 Hp.With the purchase of extra jets this system can flow up to 250 Hp.

Second,
Dry Halo System,
This system was built to compete with other dry systems on the market.Instead of having nozzles twisting around in you air lid this spray ring sits under the air lid.Makes for a great hidden system.This system injects nitrous directly into the air intake and use the factory EFI system to provide the extra fuel necessary This system is also rated at the rear wheels.It comes adjustable 40,60,80 RWP. You can spray more with the extra needed Jets.

Third,
The universal Dry system.
This system is a dual nozzle dry system.Each nozzle plumbs into the side of the air lid or air box if it is a truck.This system injects nitrous directly into the air intake and use the factory EFI system to provide the extra fuel necessary This system is not realeased but will by the end of January.

NITROUS OXIDE SYSTEMS
Nos offers a dry system.This system injects nitrous directly into the air intake and use the factory EFI system to provide the extra fuel necessary
The system comes with jets for 3 different levels of horsepower: 75, 85, and 100. (125 Horsepower Jets are also available separately.) These are rated at the Flywheel.

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WET AND DRY
This is the most common asked question in this industry.This is a small explanation.

DRY Nitrous Systems.
A dry system adds the fuel and nitrous seperatly.On a LS1 based Vehicle here is how it works.You have a nozzle that sprays nitrous only.This nozzle sprays before the mass air meter.The mass air meter sinces the change and tells the ECM to add fuel through the fuel injectors.On a LT1 or EFI mustang(up to 99) The dry kits come with a Nitrous Management Unit.Here is how it works.The dry nozzle plumbs in after the mass air meter,before throttle body.This nozzle still sprays nitrous only.The NMU inriches the fuel by bumping up the fuel pressure.This is caused by putting pressure on the fuel regulater.

WET Nitrous Systems
A Wet Nitrous System adds nitrous and fuel together thru one nozzle.This nozzle will plumb into the air induction before the the throttle body after the mass air meter.If possible about 3 to 6 inches before the throttle body.This system has two solenoids,a nitrous solenoid and a fuel solenoid.On most GM Vehicles you will have a shrader valve.You will remove the stem out of it and simply screw the line on that runs to the fuel solenoid.Cars that do not have a shrader valve you will have to splice into the fuel supply.

OUR VIEW ON FUEL PUDDLING.
Fuel puddling is impossible.If the tune up is right.

The air velocity in an intake is so great (at wide open throttle above 3000 rpm), it is not possible for a nitrous system operating correctly to puddle. The fuel particals would have to fall out of an atomized mist. Collect grow and then what?
A back fire is cause by the intake saturation the amount of fuel and nitrous you are injecting into an engine has a higher velocity than the suction of the engine at that rpm. The air speed stalls out, allowing for the flame in the combustion chamber to ignite what is in the intake. This is why all nitrous company's tell you not to engage unless at full throttle and above 2500-3000 rpms.
Here is another way to look at this.
Lets take fog for example.It is heavy air.Inside are water particles. Correct? You dont see water droplets falling out of it.Does your car die on a foggy day. NOPE but there is a lot of water in the air. Shouldn't that water collect in the intake and then make the car die. Fuel vapors are the same they can not just fall out of the air stream
A proper wet system works the same way.Unless you use to big of a fuel jet causing to much fuel to flow you have nothing to worry about.
The nitrous pulverises the fuel into a particle.The nitrous and the fuel will travel through the intake with no problem.It is impossible for the fuel to drop out unless your tune up is wrong and you are spraying to much fuel.The suction from the motor at wide open throttle will suck the fuel and nitrous in at such a rate of speed it can not puddle.
Dave

Deckhand

iTrader: (1)

Id think the most bang for the buck.. especially for a newb with a small shot would be a single shark nozzle kit.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

I will agree with you one this one.
The best quality parts on the market and at a good price.
Dave

ryan23

iTrader: (5)

Dave -
Thanks for the informative posts, even if it was just a repost In my case, I'll be looking at a direct port setup. I guess some technology has been thrown in since the last time I messed with the bottle. The "Maximizer" sounds like a great option. Who is the manufacturer? I'd like to get some more info on this, particularly the O2 input. Do you know if it has a scalable 5V input that is user programmable (IE: Can I use an output from my wideband controller?). My main concern with this setup is safety. I have a good bit tied up in this project and want to minimize the chances of falling victim to a "nitrous mishap". Obviously, any power adder is a timebomb if tuned/setup incorrectly (I come from a FI background). The car will be plenty fast without the bottle, I just want it for those "just in case" moments and the occasional trip to the strip.

Thanks,

Ryan

*Edit* Oh sweet, found it. Go figure, FJO product. Should work good with my WB then

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

What WB are you using. I have the LM1 from Inovate and love it.

ryan23

iTrader: (5)

FJO

DynotuneN2O

iTrader: (13)

For top quality, top notch customer service and a price of $399! this kit does it all!



Dean

Jimmythekid

Don't believe all the B.S... If you do not want to go big then dont! There is nothing wrong with baby steps. All of the companies provide quality products. So, if price is a concern don't buy into the hype! If you want to spend a lot of extra money buy a NX kit with the fish engraved on the nozzle. If you want to save money and still make the exact same power with the exact same reliability go with: NOS, Dyno Tune, Cold Fuzion...