T-Rex cam ...need honest opinions
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T-Rex cam ...need honest opinions
I have a stock ls1 engine with boltons. (ls6 intake, LTs, cutout etc...)
I hear a lot of people saying that the T-Rex cam is unsafe and only good for a few passes before something breaks. If I were to run a T-Rex cam on stock heads with all the options:
- Crane Cams 144832-16 Valve Springs
- Crane Cams 144661 Titanium Retainers
- Crane Cams 144460-16 Hardened Seats
- 11-VS-UV5001-EO Valve Stem Seals
- Thunder Racing Stock Length Pushrods (7.400)
Would this be a safe setup? Would upgrading to Comp Cams 63-26921-KIT Spring kit for $175 be worth it?
This car is by no means a daily driver and I'm sure the cam idles horribly. Does anyone use their t-rex on the street?
I hear a lot of people saying that the T-Rex cam is unsafe and only good for a few passes before something breaks. If I were to run a T-Rex cam on stock heads with all the options:
- Crane Cams 144832-16 Valve Springs
- Crane Cams 144661 Titanium Retainers
- Crane Cams 144460-16 Hardened Seats
- 11-VS-UV5001-EO Valve Stem Seals
- Thunder Racing Stock Length Pushrods (7.400)
Would this be a safe setup? Would upgrading to Comp Cams 63-26921-KIT Spring kit for $175 be worth it?
This car is by no means a daily driver and I'm sure the cam idles horribly. Does anyone use their t-rex on the street?
#3
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It would be about as safe as any other decent sized cam we put in our cars. In other words, go for it!
There are plenty of people that drive their T-rex equipped 346 cube LS1's on the street. It's not a very good daily driver cam but with a good tune, the supporting bolt-ons and proper gears and/or converter it could easily be driven on the street. I'd have it in my car if it wasn't my daily driver 24/7/365.
Comp 921's are a very good spring and should be worth the money. THere are other (cheaper) dual springs that you could use as well.
There are plenty of people that drive their T-rex equipped 346 cube LS1's on the street. It's not a very good daily driver cam but with a good tune, the supporting bolt-ons and proper gears and/or converter it could easily be driven on the street. I'd have it in my car if it wasn't my daily driver 24/7/365.
Comp 921's are a very good spring and should be worth the money. THere are other (cheaper) dual springs that you could use as well.
#4
Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
It would be about as safe as any other decent sized cam we put in our cars. In other words, go for it!
There are plenty of people that drive their T-rex equipped 346 cube LS1's on the street. It's not a very good daily driver cam but with a good tune, the supporting bolt-ons and proper gears and/or converter it could easily be driven on the street. I'd have it in my car if it wasn't my daily driver 24/7/365.
Comp 921's are a very good spring and should be worth the money. THere are other (cheaper) dual springs that you could use as well.
There are plenty of people that drive their T-rex equipped 346 cube LS1's on the street. It's not a very good daily driver cam but with a good tune, the supporting bolt-ons and proper gears and/or converter it could easily be driven on the street. I'd have it in my car if it wasn't my daily driver 24/7/365.
Comp 921's are a very good spring and should be worth the money. THere are other (cheaper) dual springs that you could use as well.
#5
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Good point.
You don't have to shift the T-rex that high for it to be as fast or faster than a less huge cam, but it does make peak power very high so you get more as you shift higher. The stock shortblock won't last forever at 7k rpm. What year is your car? If it's an older model I wouldn't go past 6500 rpm, 6800 if newer, very much until you get rod bolts.
You don't have to shift the T-rex that high for it to be as fast or faster than a less huge cam, but it does make peak power very high so you get more as you shift higher. The stock shortblock won't last forever at 7k rpm. What year is your car? If it's an older model I wouldn't go past 6500 rpm, 6800 if newer, very much until you get rod bolts.
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the 921 upgrade is well worth it with that cam...i would definatly reccomend upgradeing to an aftermarket lifter, i've seen several trex cars kill stock lifters leading to a totally killed motor.
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Thanks for all the replies!! Yeah the car is a '99. And I wasn't planning on changing any of the shift points until I got the motor built. Which rod bolts and lifter would you recommend?? I'm pretty new to this. I know I won't make the absolute peak power shifting at 6500 but it's nice to know it's there if I ever get serious with the motor. I've seen some springs say they're good to 600 or 650 lift...and this t rex is something like 620 if I recall. So these 921s should be able to handle that?
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#8
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its a good decent size cam.only drive mine on fridays to work 50mi. total to and back.take it to the track on weekends .once in awhile would go up to 7k on the shift.will upgrade rod bolts soon.as far as driving daily will leave that up to you.not sure if I would try.good luck.
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IMO, I would look at different cam if your not going to change your shift points or rev limiter. There are better cams in the lower RPM ranges for you out there, then when you get serious, go for the Trex or the like. I have a forged bottom end and shift at 7100 RPM. It would be useless shifting this cam at the stock shift points IMO. I had no issues driving my A4, 3.23, stalled car on the street either, just need to have someone good at tuning all perameters for an A4, not just WOT shift points. I'm also using the Crane 832 springs with no issues, they just need to be setup for your cam correctly. I'm not trying to deter you, just giving you some of my experiance .
Dan
Dan
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one of the F14 or F13 grinds from Futral Motorsports wouldn't be a bad idea for your daily driver actually, those two will be much friendlier on springs/lifters (the lifters will be your major problem) and both of those cams are having huge success right now in t56 cars. good luck.
#13
Originally Posted by stang killer
I agree, I say go with something smaller. This is a max effort cam, and with you not using this cam to its full potential (rpm wise) its pointless to get.
I agree 110% with these guys. That cam is too big for your application. Don't get me wrong, I think Thunder Racing makes great cams. Here's one that they make that I think you'll be more happier with:
99-230/224-111 Thunder Racing Custom "Reverse Split" Camshaft - 230/224 .575/.563 111 LSA 2200-6800 RPM Power Band. Excellent mid-range & high RPM power. Automatic cars require computer tuning and it is recommend for optimum results on manual transmission cars . Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended.
http://www.thunderracing.com
#14
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Originally Posted by JB151
This car is by no means a daily driver and I'm sure the cam idles horribly.
Originally Posted by liftin'em on nittos
one of the F14 or F13 grinds from Futral Motorsports wouldn't be a bad idea for your daily driver
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Yes, this will NOT be a daily driver
Wouldn't it just be better to get the t-rex and use it (even though it won't be 100% shifting at 6500 rpm) until I get the motor built, then to get a smaller cam then have to buy a whole new cam when the motor is built?
Wouldn't it just be better to get the t-rex and use it (even though it won't be 100% shifting at 6500 rpm) until I get the motor built, then to get a smaller cam then have to buy a whole new cam when the motor is built?
#16
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How long till the motor is built? Rod bolts aren't very hard or expensive to do. You should be able to shift at 6500 anytime you want in the meantime. Even shifting at 6500 rpm the T-rex should still be faster than most other cams, though you will surely be leaving some on the table.
Have you considered one of the other large, but hot HUGE, cams? G5X4, MS3?
Have you considered one of the other large, but hot HUGE, cams? G5X4, MS3?
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My point remains, DD or not doesn't matter and I did read the whole post. I actually have this cam and you can do what you want, just trying to steer you in a better direction. The Trex doesn't really kick in till 4000 RPM and pulls hard to easily 7200 RPM. So if you don't mind giving up the bottom end and not utilizing the top end till you get a forged block then go for it. I'm just saying there are better cams for your current application. If you choose another cam, you can just sell it to recoop some money back and buy the Trex then. I had the TR230 before the Trex and loved it, pulled hard down low all the way up to 6800 RPM and will be fine on the stock bottom end. Stock shift points are not 6500 RPM either, maybe your rev limiter is. Again all this IMO of course. It sounds pretty much like you already convinced yourself to get the Trex, good luck and have fun with it
Dan
Dan
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The T-Rex is a great cam for me. I still have stock gears (saving for 12-bolt) and the car is my DD. It is faster than my brothers head and cam car and I am cam only. Get it and you will not regret it, unless you don't like 400+ hp at rear wheels cam only.
#20
Originally Posted by JB151
I have a stock ls1 engine with boltons. (ls6 intake, LTs, cutout etc...)
I hear a lot of people saying that the T-Rex cam is unsafe and only good for a few passes before something breaks. If I were to run a T-Rex cam on stock heads with all the options:
This car is by no means a daily driver and I'm sure the cam idles horribly. Does anyone use their t-rex on the street?
I hear a lot of people saying that the T-Rex cam is unsafe and only good for a few passes before something breaks. If I were to run a T-Rex cam on stock heads with all the options:
This car is by no means a daily driver and I'm sure the cam idles horribly. Does anyone use their t-rex on the street?