Engine mods for daily driven ls1 68 camaro
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Engine mods for daily driven ls1 68 camaro
Im about to put in the ls1/t56 from my 99 ss parts car and im looking for a bit more power. Im not trying to get some insane combo that runs like ****, just something more aggresive than stock.
But what I am wondering is how muych my desision will be affected by my not having to pass smog, or be running any smog equip for that matter. I was thinking about an intake cam swap and maybe some heads further down the road.
Just any suggestions that wont ruin the driveability or gas mileage of the car (too badly), oh and if has a ported throttle body and is otherwise completely stock.
But what I am wondering is how muych my desision will be affected by my not having to pass smog, or be running any smog equip for that matter. I was thinking about an intake cam swap and maybe some heads further down the road.
Just any suggestions that wont ruin the driveability or gas mileage of the car (too badly), oh and if has a ported throttle body and is otherwise completely stock.
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Well I'll try and go from first to last ENGINE mods
1.Intake
2.Headers/True duals
3.LS6 Intake
4.Ported TB (you already have)
5.F-13 cam
6.UD pulley
7.AFR 205 heads
That will drive with very little difference from stock, except a TON more power. With all that you should make 425-450rwhp.
NOTE: you will need drivetrain and suspension mods as well.
1.Intake
2.Headers/True duals
3.LS6 Intake
4.Ported TB (you already have)
5.F-13 cam
6.UD pulley
7.AFR 205 heads
That will drive with very little difference from stock, except a TON more power. With all that you should make 425-450rwhp.
NOTE: you will need drivetrain and suspension mods as well.
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My rear end and suspension are deffinately up to the task (knocks on head).
Unfortunately because of the strange mix of parts I am using for my swap there are no long tubes that will bolt in, so looks like I need to build some.
The exhaust is already duals, what is the definition of "true" duals, are you saying to not have a crossover or just not to have a single pipe at any one point as 4th gens do.
Also i'm building an air intake so it should have better flow then stock.
Thanks for the advice
Unfortunately because of the strange mix of parts I am using for my swap there are no long tubes that will bolt in, so looks like I need to build some.
The exhaust is already duals, what is the definition of "true" duals, are you saying to not have a crossover or just not to have a single pipe at any one point as 4th gens do.
Also i'm building an air intake so it should have better flow then stock.
Thanks for the advice
#6
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Definatly have a crossover. I forgot that you were putting it into the vette again. You will have to get some headers fabbed up. I would get the pro 5.0 shifter. The shifter isn't much shorter it just makes the distance your hand travels when shifting gears shorter. It is also very stable, I cannot miss 3rd gear at wot even when trying. It's almost like you have to go out of your way to miss 3rd.
People usually say true duals because the camaros have dual tailpipes but it is a Y-pipe setup. Not two pipes all the way back with a crossover somewhere in there.
People usually say true duals because the camaros have dual tailpipes but it is a Y-pipe setup. Not two pipes all the way back with a crossover somewhere in there.
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i'm a big fan of big heads/small cam philosophy, unlike everyone else who thinks camming it is the way to get power. if you want fun, smooth operation, that just happens to make a lot of power, get some heads and a 'smaller' cam to match it. you'll be able to idle and tool around town perfect, but when you get on it, it will go like stink. cam only setups, while more budget friendly and make almost as good of power, they're hard to live with.
i have a z06 cam, rockers, springs, stock headers and cats, and still made over 360rwhp. you will never know that there's been any changes, until you get on it. the power never drops off, it just keeps on going. i have >300rwtq at 3600rpm and it never dips under 300 again. 4-5krpm torque is flat, making a very nice predictible power delivery.
next step is to find some nice heads for it, i don't see a reason why i shouldn't get much closer to 400rwhp with ZERO loss of manners and drivability.
i have a z06 cam, rockers, springs, stock headers and cats, and still made over 360rwhp. you will never know that there's been any changes, until you get on it. the power never drops off, it just keeps on going. i have >300rwtq at 3600rpm and it never dips under 300 again. 4-5krpm torque is flat, making a very nice predictible power delivery.
next step is to find some nice heads for it, i don't see a reason why i shouldn't get much closer to 400rwhp with ZERO loss of manners and drivability.
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#10
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Originally Posted by RedHardSupra
oh sure, but noone uses them, these days .595/230 cams are daily driver cams apparently i just don't wanna steer him into the internet myths territory.
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Yea, so with my conversion it looks like all i need is a new intake (is there anything besides the zo6 intake worth looking at such as the weiand aluminum one, im still not feeling the plastic) A cam with springs pushrods and lifters ill try and get a ride in a car with a similar setup to learn what kind of power deliverey ill have. I'm used to a lumpy cam with a not so street friendly carb setup so i think i can manage.
Do you guys run the stock rods/rod bolts, i doubt ill be running anything north of 425rwhp but is it worth the hassle of it or for that much power shoudl i be safe?
Do you guys run the stock rods/rod bolts, i doubt ill be running anything north of 425rwhp but is it worth the hassle of it or for that much power shoudl i be safe?
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i wouldn't mess with an aluminum intake. they just soak up heat and have shown to be worth no additional power. the ls6 is the best bang for the buck intake but the fast 90mm will make more horsepower (but it is mucho $$$).
people spin these motors pretty high on the stock short block. the rods are actually pretty nice pieces and will take 7000rpm abuse. the rod bolts is where the weak link is. it's pretty cheap to buy some arp rod bolts and easy to put them in (especially since the motor is out of the car).
good luck
people spin these motors pretty high on the stock short block. the rods are actually pretty nice pieces and will take 7000rpm abuse. the rod bolts is where the weak link is. it's pretty cheap to buy some arp rod bolts and easy to put them in (especially since the motor is out of the car).
good luck