The Knightrider

I currently have regular (non-synthetic) oil in it and I was wondering what kind of break in procedure... i.e. miles, oil changing inerval you all would recommend?

Also, how much should you baby it?



Thanks,

smask04C5

iTrader: (1)

Once you have heat cycled the engine several times and you are confident everything is in order, hammer it! change oil and filter at 500 and 1500 miles, then replace with synthetic and have fun

wicked-98

I would baby it to about 3000 miles at least

The Knightrider

One says hammer it when confident and the other says baby it for 3000.

I guess I'll wait until a couple more reply's before I make my decision.

I am getting some sweet oil pressure out of this motor... 50-60psi driving (warmed up), and 42-45 idleing (warmed up).

dragonZ28

iTrader: (32)

Do the 500 mile method. It is proven to be OK. Keep it under 3K RPM for these miles, and then change the oil and you'll be good to go. I would inspect the oil at 1000 miles to check for metallic oil to see if the engine is still breaking in. If the oil has metal in it, then change it again for piece of mind.

00Vette

iTrader: (4)

I had my motor rebuilt over a year ago and the builder had me stop and go drive it for about 500-750miles on dinosaur oil (he said the non-synthetic oil helps the valves seat when the oil breaks down). I took it back to him for a synthetic oil change and filter change then stop and go drove it for another 1000miles. Then I did a final oil change before I got into it hard. I romped it a bit before the final oil change, but not above 4500rpms. Now I run it to 6800rpms no prob. Haven't had a problem with it. It runs solid!!! Very happy with it. It sucks waiting but it'll be worth it.....

The Knightrider

I guess I will do the 500 - 1000 break in method. I am just real paranoid (lisening for any little tic or tac) that I am going to hear that nasty sound

98nosz28

iTrader: (1)

My engine builder ran it on the dyno for 200miles at various speeds and rpms, then let it have it. After heat cycling the spring of course. I picked up the car with 400 miles on it and he took me for a rip and reved to 7000. I have been doing the same ever since. I now have 2500 miles on the engine and it does not use oil, oil is still clean and the car runs great. Every one will have different opinions on this topic.

pekkaz

Yup, the theory is to seat rings quick. Hone pattern for moly rings is real fine and just wears out wihout seating the rings if no pressure is put to the engine.

The Knightrider

I am also planning like a 400 mile road trip just to get some miles on it. I there a max. speed I should stay under or something?

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Speed doesn't matter, it's RPM's that you have to keep low while breaking in the engine. I'd say stay under 4k until you're happy with break-in.

12secSS

iTrader: (30)

Wow, my technique will kill most of you.

If it is not a race engine, I usually just find a deserted long straight road and place the trans in 3rd (A4) or 4th (M6) and coast at ~40mph. Then I go WOT until close to redline and let off, making sure the engine slows the car down (engine braking). Repeat this for 3-5 times and you are set. This mimics the engine dyno pre-runs before going WOT and it is what GM recommends for their engine break-in procedure. One final note, how do you think those race engines get broken in so fast, they don't have time to drive around for 500-3000 miles.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

I just put a new motor in on 6-18-05 and broke it in later that week.

I did what FlameThrowing_SS says above basically.

Started car first night, ran for 20 minutes, changed the oil.

Broke it in for 100 miles, changes the oil.

Car is running awesome, need tuning but otherwise it rips!

Below is the quote, not sure who posted this:

You will get many different answers on this subject but from my experience around many race motors and hot street motors is this. Get the motor started and make sure everything looks ok with noises, leaks, oil pressure, adjustments,fluid levels, etc. Let it get to normal temp and cut it off.Let it cool down and repeat this procedure. This is to insure that nothing major is wrong before you go wide open under full power. After this, run it at full throttle as soon as possible. You need to seat the rings under full throttle for the best results from a motor and you have little time to do it. 50 miles of babying the thing will not seat the rings properly. You don't have to break in any type of roller cam. So get it running, make sure everything is ok and then run it like you stole it. No need to baby a motor period. Its built right or its not. Ring seating is key! Also as stated above, use non-synthetic for at least the first 1k miles to aid ring seat.

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I have always used a similar break-in. Many ppl read articles like that and I am not so sure they interpret it correctly.
1) use Dino oil change after first 15-30 min of running. I let it warm up, check leaks, and tuning parameters. Once its all good, shut down, change oil and filter, use Dino oil and good filter. Check all fluids again. while its cooling down about 30min.

2) Start back up, idle to light part throttle for about a mile, dpending on location. Then gradually load the engine from a stop, part throttle (not enough to break traction but decent amount of accelleration) up to 2800-3200rpms a few times with gentle ease off throttle decel. Then again from a slow roll, more throttle pulling to 4000-4500 and back down a few times.

3) By this time out away from traffic and have the ability to 1/2 throttle it up to 3000rpms or so, and then WOT progressively getting closer to redline, not holding it there, just run it up and let off, run it up and let off. Finally, if all is well (temp is big factor) then cool her off for a few minutes low rpm rolling for air movement then stop and run it like I'm at the track, dead stop WOT to top of 3rd (D). and then engine decel. Change oil again, still using Dino oil and good filter.

4) after around first 1000 miles give another oil change moving to Synthetic this time and remaining.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

I like putting 500 easy miles on the motor with a few good pulls in there.Then wait to 1k miles to beat the snot out of it.This is just a piece of mind and has worked on the cars we do.

Now for race cars we beat the hell out of them right away but rebuild the motor withing 30-35 track passes at most.Thats not many miles