Okie02

ok im in the middle of my cam install..(Tsp 233/239) stock heads for now..any way im using comp 918's to replace the stock ones..i got a more performance valvespring tool but the SOB didnt come with any instructions..can someone tell me how to remove them and put them back on? also how high can i safely rev my motor with hardened pushrods and 918's? stock rockers..thanks alot...

LS1s R US

iTrader: (1)

the more tool ya have to do them one at a time. Are ya using air to hold the valves up or what? Ya have to bump the retainer on the side to losen the keepers or when ya push down on the tool the vavle will try to open usually! Think the more uses a 3/8s rachet and ext!May take ya a while. The 918s are probably at there limit with that cam I would contact TSP and let them tell you how far you can rev it. Also www.ls1howto.com has some info that might can help. Good luck maybe some of this info is useful!

LS1s R US

iTrader: (1)

Also put some rags around the valves you are doing at the time some of the keepers my decide to fall out of your hand!Put some thick grease on the keepers to hold them on the end of the valve and make sure the keepers are on good! Good luck!

gmblack3

iTrader: (1)

Here is my "how to" when I installed crane duals with the crane tool. From what it sounds like the "more performance" tool is different, but this should get you there.

Instead of grease we used one of those pen magnets to make sure the keepers didn't go anywhere. Sounds like the other guys used grease to keep the keepers in place during reassembly, use the pen magnet when removing the keepers.

Remove the stock rockers. You can see the rocker here and the broken spring:



Should look like this when you get all the stock rockers and rail removed:



Sorry didn't get any pics of the old spring removal. You should be able to figure it out from the install pics.

Apply 15psi of air to the cylinder where the springs are being removed from. Some say that more should be applied but it worked for us.

Give a few taps to the valve spring with a dealblow hammer. You just want to make sure that the valve is not going to follow the spring down. If it is let the spring compression tool back up and a few more taps with the hammer on the spring/valve. Once the spring locks are looking free, grab them with a pen style magnet. This is the best way to ensure that you don't drop them. Let the spring tool back up and remove the two springs.

Then it will look like this:



If you have some miles on the car, I suggest changing out the valve seals. GM part # 12457652 this is the part # for the brown (exhaust=high-temp) seals. I suggest getting 2 sets (8 in a set) of these. They list at $17.50 a set. There are also seals that are black, they are used for intake seals (not high-temp). They are the same price so you might as well have the higher temp seals (brown) on all 16 valves.

If you are replacing the springs with aftermarket springs you will need to remove the spring seats. The new springs will need a different valve seats as the aftermarket springs will not sit on the stock valve seats.

Here is a pic of the stock valve seat being removed. You can also use your pen magnet to remove these as well:



The valve seals can be removed by using a set of pliers. Careful not to scare the side of the valve when removing the valve seals.

Grab a new valve seal and lube it with oil on the inside and top, carefully slide it down over the valve. You don't want to damage the seal.



Slide the 2 new spring seats on and make sure they are flush on the head:



With a socket and extension tap the valve seal into place. You will feel a click:





Check again to make sure the spring seats are flush against the head.

The place the new spring with retainers in place:



Then get the spring tool and retainers lined up. Start to slowly compress the spring. Make sure the valve does not get caught on the retainer.



See how the valve is centered in the retainer:



Here are your spring locks. Notice how one side is bigger. The bigger/thicker side will go up.



Place them in place like this:



Slowly release pressure on the spring tool:



After you remove the tool they should look like this:



Give a few lite taps again on the spring/valve to make sure that everything is good. Remove the air from that cylinder and move on to the next set of springs.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

whats up with your head bolts

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

hey this is good!! this needs to be a sticky or added to a how to. i know there's already one out, but this one is better!

Okie02

so i need new valve seats for my 918's? where and which ones do i get?...oh and thanks alot man for the help!

gmblack3

iTrader: (1)

When David Fulcher who is the vette tech at Tom Jumper chevy in Atl did my re-ring, that is how he IDs each bolt when he torques them.

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

i was under the impression you could still use the stock seats with the 918's

jrp

iTrader: (16)

stock seats can be used with the 918's. the walkthrough is done with crane duals in which the seats need to be replaced.

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

:bow: holla at the seach mod!!

schultzsj

iTrader: (1)

gmblk3:

Where did you get that Crane spring compressor? I looked on their website and could not find it. Can you share the P/N and cost also?

$130 (More tool) just seems like too much to pay for something I may only use once.

EDIT: Never mind, I found it - P/N 99472-1, $122 at SDPC. Why do these things cost so much?

Thanks,

Steve

AdamSS

iTrader: (3)

OK - To complete this awesome write up, I wanna post the right order and direction of assembling spring components.
Let's take these Patriot Golds as an example:



Once the stock seats are removed we place the following, starting from the left (facing up as shown):
1) Oil seals (with the little iron coil facing up)
2) Seats (with the narrower part facing up)
We use a socket to seat them nice and secure
3) Spring
4) Retainer
5) Locks (with the thicker/wider part facing up)

Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I don't wanna post lies.
Thanks

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

I believe that's wrong. You should put the seat on first cause it wont fit over the seal, then put the seal on, and the rest is right .

Dan

AdamSS

iTrader: (3)

...so where is the "click" coming from if you put seat first and then oil seal and supposed to use socket to make them connected (please note the direction of the parts that I posted)

I was gonna call patriot tomorrow and ask, but I was hoping people would know how to do it...

Thanks...

dragonZ28

iTrader: (32)

Just put a socket on over the seal, and press down with your palm. This will fully seat the valve seal without tapping it with the force of a hammer. I have personally done this method with 4 different cars, and never had an issue. Not to mention, tapping the seals onto the back 2 cylinders on an F-body is a biotch. Just press the seal on by hand, and then place a socket over it and press down until you hear and feel the click.

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

Just like dragonZ28 said. I have done it this way several times as well. Make sure you put the seat on first before the seal. If you put the seal on first, you will have to remove it to get the seat on as the hole in the middle of the seat is smaller than the seal is. So in your picture, you need to swap the seat and the seal positions.