Nasty Hawk

I am going to be running a 100 dry shot and a 150 wet shot. Purchasing a timing tuner this week, how much timing should i pull to safely run this setup? Also will running the dry shot pull timing??

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

6-8 degrees.

mrr23

iTrader: (3)

well, it depends on if you are going to run both at the same time. or run each one separately.

the PCM will only pull timing if it detects knock.

Nasty Hawk

Yes i will be running both at same time. Dry in first and rest of gears, and wet in 2nd and throught the rest.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Yes, using dry as your first stage will pull what ever timing you want on the spray. Furthermore, it has no effect on your n/a timing. One of the many benifits of running dry. In my web site in the links is a write up on how to do the timing pull on dry hits.
Robert

Nasty Hawk

but i will need to pull timing with the timing tuner for the wet shot???

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

No, the dry being before maf will allow timing to be pulled in the amount you want, for both the wet and dry.
Robert

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

Hold on...Robert have you tried the dry/wet setup yet? Because the dry will pull timing when tuned correctly. Thats works fantastic.

But so far I have tried twice to do the dry/wet using the dry timing retard method and failed both times. I was using two window switches. One bringing the dry on at 3000 rpm the other bringng on the wet at ~4800 rpm. When the dry hit it would pull timing like normal...but when the wet hit it would displace enough volume behind the MAF that it would kick the MAF back over to its NA range and timing would always come back in. SO be very careful. We didnt spend a whole lot of time trying to "fine tune" the dry timing..so its still probably possible. Just very touchy and takes some thought and testing.


Nasty...If I were in your shoes right now I would go ahead and use the TT for your primary timing retard since you already have it. I would however get another window switch to use for the other stage. This takes the "human factor" out of activation and will prevent you from accidentally hitting both at too low of an rpm. DOnt say it cant happen....lol...it happened to me.

I would take out what the guy above said....roughly 6-8 degrees. I would also use the highest unleaded race gas octane you can find. Like 104 octane unleaded.

Matt@HSW

iTrader: (14)

Did you get my last email Joe?

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

383LQ4SS, you may be right? I am not an F-body guy. The vettes maf is 15" to 18" away from wet injection point (bellows or tb plate). Reversion doesn't seem to be a problem on the y-bodys, but in fact may be a factor for the f-body. Now that you mention it I do remember you stating this before. A challenge in the tuning department? I wonder if it was a n2o supply issue when wet stage engaged? Pleny of guys are doing this and really haven't heard of other f-body problems as of yet.
I also run dual window switches and soon triple.
Robert

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

Actually yes...N20 supply was one issue I blelive. Because not only is the wet shot displacing some volume behind the MAF reducing its reporting...the dry stage now shares its nitrous with a larger wet stage reducing its flow.

Either way...just something to take note of. If you do the dry/wet and are using the dry retard method...be sure to log you timing to be sure the timing isnt coming back in when the wet hits.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

This is one of the reasons I am running an additional 4an line directly from my bottle to my 3rd stage wet hit (supply demand).
Robert

Nasty Hawk

No Matt i did not recieve your email.. Thanks for the replies guys. I will be using the timing tuner for 1 window switch since it has one built in, and i am getting another window switch with the 1st gear lock out feature so the wet shot doesnt kick in till 2nd gear. 100dry 150wet..

Matt@HSW

iTrader: (14)

Sent ya a PM.