soontobeLS1

I was told by the shop that installed my parts and tuned my car that a blower is a better way to go, more power, better driveability etc. Only costs a little more. States a blower car is wayyyyyy different than a heads/cam car. Any input would be appreciated.

Thx

conan

iTrader: (5)

It depends on how much power you want to have when it all said and done. For me it's never enough power, going in to higher hp and more boost will require a stronger bottomend = more money, Also more boost requires lower compression here comes your heads and might aswell complement them with a blower cam, see where this is going. Dont get me wrong you can put a blower on a stock moter and rum 450rwhp all day long with out any problems, and it probly will run smoother than a H/C making the same power. Figure out what your final goal for the car is going to be before you drop the $$.

conan

iTrader: (5)

One more thing a blower will cost you double what heads and a cam cost.

KrazyDan

if i had the money, i would go with a procharger. mines more of a daily driver or weekend car. love the sound.

no matter what you pick your gonna want more anyway.

luvmeZ28

iTrader: (3)

get heads, cam, and 12 bolt. probably still wouldnt spend what you would on a charger,install, and tune.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Heads and Cam hands down. Would only go FI if you have the money to spend. Just do Heads/Cam and Nitrous and call it a day.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

apples and oranges. obviously the FI will net you more power pound for pound due to better volumetric efficiency. however the entry cost to FI is steep no matter how you slice it. i say whatever you do, do it once and do it right; FI get a forged shortblock, 9.0 compression, D-1SC, full fuel system, and a FI compitant tuner.

for h/c i'd go AFR 205's, cam of choice, Fast 90/NW, fuel system (injectors/pump), and your current bot ons.

another option is cubic displacement, you can get a 402 and h/c for the price of a P1/D1. or you can look into the STS as well. there's a plethora of options, find the one that best suites your budget and application.

also, with either n/a or FI the little **** add up faster then you think..

jrp

iTrader: (16)

oh, and FWIW im going from a high compression forged 347 (h/c) to FI.

jaberwaki

blower cars with a stock bottem end aint maken alot more power then stock bottem end H/C cars...



FI is $$$$ lots of it... yes it can get you rediculouse hp...IF you have 5500 to sink into a shortblock 5500 to sink into the charger and pluming, 2500 to sink into labor, 800-1000 for tuning, 500-1000 for fueling .....

then you get the honor of spending at LEAST that much more to build the rest of your car to HANDLE that power...

jrp

iTrader: (16)

soontobels1, i copied this thread to the FI forum as well, that way you can get both perspectives as well.

jaberwaki

you going to the dark side huh? aint many more of us N/A knights gonna be left

soontobeLS1

Thx dude.....Man, I just can't have enough power. As soon as I get the car paid off, mod time.

I like the idea of all motor.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

ya, i've gone back and forth on this for while. either all out with a sleeved ls2 block (unsure on displacement; 393 all bore, 427, 434), 13.5 CR, AFR 225's mamofied, fast 90 mamofied, custom QTP headers, ect.

or STS.

i decided on the STS . i can get the power of the above combo, run pump gas, and be 100% smog legal...

my car isnt a daily driver, and is gonna be setup for HPDE's and other NASA events.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

oh, and other to consider is what you want your powerband to be. alot of these high power h/c setups are pushing increasingly high rpms; 6800-7200. thats great an all for the track, however on the street 2500-4500 is where you'll spend most of your time. the tq curve rules all in a daily driver. hence why FI and cubic displacement are great for daily drivers, in terms of off the throttle power. again, there are compromises to be made..

or you can have both worlds and do a boosted 402

soontobeLS1

Ya, that's what I am worried about is losing the low end......Still bugs me that the LS1's power is higher up than a 5.0....both are different cars, I know.......the LS1 makes up for it in the mid to upper, good feeling. Still difficult to break my tires lose while rolling in first gear, tried at 4000 RPM, barely let go and grabbed again.....One thing for sure is that the LS1 hooks.

blkZ28spt

Heads/cam. Cheaper and sounds better.

My chosen route is high compression heads/cam and later for more power forge the bottom end and spray it.

1 BLOWN V8

iTrader: (17)

H/C

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

Wish i had that problem, I'd go FI, but thats just me, because of the daily driver, and MPG

Reject

iTrader: (24)

hey this thread over at the FI section dosnt have these post and vic-versa! now i have to keep up with two! lol FI is my choice

jaberwaki

hmmmm thats strange... i can break my ET drags loose on the street in 1st 2nd and 3rd..... hell 3rd from a 40mph roll