ARP--Head Bolts or Studs which is better?
09-03-2005, 07:16 PM
#1
ARP--Head Bolts or Studs which is better? Looking for some insight when it comes to ARP head botls or studs. Any pros or cons to either.
With a F-body is it any harder to remove heads with studs vs bolts. The search has told me that it can be done, but care is needed.
Would like to hear from both sides.
With a F-body is it any harder to remove heads with studs vs bolts. The search has told me that it can be done, but care is needed.
Would like to hear from both sides.
09-03-2005, 07:23 PM
#2
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I am in the process of doing a heads and cam setup and was told that the head studs are the way to go if you are tearing into your motor. They are safer for a power adder car than just putting in head bolts. I am planning on spraying after about a year with just the heads and cam so I opted for the head studs.
09-03-2005, 09:20 PM
#6
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I watched something on "The Speed Channel" about this very subject. The episode was about doing hi-performance rebuilds, and both engine builders on the show said that, whenever and wherever possible, choose a stud over a bolt, they're that much better.
Their reasoning was that bolts tip, twist, or otherwise misalign from true perpendicular as you're basically relying on nothing but the threads (those cut into the hole, and those cut or rolled onto the bolt) to align the bolt when torquing it down.
Studs, on the other hand, rely more on the flat, machined underside surface of the stud nut (or cap, or whatever you want to call it) to evenly torque the fastener.
I'm not smart enough to call B.S. on those guys, and their reasoning for preferring studs over bolts, but it made sense to me. I'll leave it up to you to decide if they were hyping studs over bolts.
Their reasoning was that bolts tip, twist, or otherwise misalign from true perpendicular as you're basically relying on nothing but the threads (those cut into the hole, and those cut or rolled onto the bolt) to align the bolt when torquing it down.
Studs, on the other hand, rely more on the flat, machined underside surface of the stud nut (or cap, or whatever you want to call it) to evenly torque the fastener.
I'm not smart enough to call B.S. on those guys, and their reasoning for preferring studs over bolts, but it made sense to me. I'll leave it up to you to decide if they were hyping studs over bolts.
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09-03-2005, 11:02 PM
#8
TECH Resident
When you torque a long (LS1) head bolt, it has some twist, just like using a long extension on your torque wrench, you may not get an accurate torque reading. You are relying on a steel bolt twisting into aluminum threads, four inches under the bolt head. With a stud, you are stretching the stud but not twisting, the threads are right under your socket, much more accurate, no thread problems. Studs are way better.
09-03-2005, 11:19 PM
#9
Originally Posted by racecar
When you torque a long (LS1) head bolt, it has some twist, just like using a long extension on your torque wrench, you may not get an accurate torque reading. You are relying on a steel bolt twisting into aluminum threads, four inches under the bolt head. With a stud, you are stretching the stud but not twisting, the threads are right under your socket, much more accurate, no thread problems. Studs are way better.
So another question not that I would be pulling the heads a lot, I take it the ARP studs and bolts are not torque to yeild. Can be use more than once comapred to GM,s one time use.
Ok one more, how is the clearance issue when removing heads with studs, is it a PITA. Or just a normal head R&R with out any major clearance problems with the cowl.
09-03-2005, 11:46 PM
#10
TECH Resident
The ARP studs are really precision heat treated and threaded. They can be used over and over. That's why you see them on top fuel drag cars that rebuild after each round.
I'm not sure how to get the heads off when the motor is in the car, I have pulled my motor each time. They do have an allen hex in the end so you can spin each stud out before you take the head off.
They are expensive, but worth it. Once you use studs you will never go back to bolts, for heads and main caps.
I'm not sure how to get the heads off when the motor is in the car, I have pulled my motor each time. They do have an allen hex in the end so you can spin each stud out before you take the head off.
They are expensive, but worth it. Once you use studs you will never go back to bolts, for heads and main caps.
09-21-2005, 09:45 PM
#12
TECH Resident
I have not tried to pull the heads in the car, but you can use the allen hex in the end of the stud to unscrew them from the block, then it would be just like pulling a head bolt out.
