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Cam swap - Lifter question/holding them up

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Old 09-16-2005, 12:42 PM
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Default Cam swap - Lifter question/holding them up

I have spum my cam several times, but when I look into the hole I can still see the lifters (I have a boroscope). I thought the lifters went high enough for the rod to slide under them, but it doesn't appear to be the case. Car is a 2002 Vette.

How does the rod work, is it just friction against the side of the lifter?

I am afraid to pull the cam yet because I don't want a lifter to fall

Last edited by vettenuts; 09-16-2005 at 01:13 PM.
Old 09-16-2005, 01:25 PM
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Not exactly sure what method you're trying but I used the trusty 'ol magnet trick. It wasn't even close to worth it for me to try anything less. The lifters are held in their bores simply by friction but each block/car is different and there are no guarantees at all that one will not fall unless it's retained by some trusted means. Please...tread lightly.
Old 09-16-2005, 01:29 PM
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That tool should slide in very easily. Is it the JPR tool or home made wooden dowels?
Old 09-16-2005, 01:29 PM
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I have 5/16ths rod I was going to use, but I don't see what good it will do because the lifters are smooth and the rod won't go under them. I have spun the crap out of the cam and that is as high as the lifters will go. Not sure how the rod works, but on my car (2002) the rod would be towards the side of the lifter.
Old 09-16-2005, 01:30 PM
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The rod slides in the block, holding the body of the lifter to prevent it from falling, NOT under it. It does NOT work on all LSx's, as some 01 & 02 have a different design lifter than the earlier models (crane vs comp). I have used the JPR lifter rods several times successfully but then again theres been 3, 2002's that will not accpet the rods. You can make some using a 3/16" velcro wrapped pass rod and a 5/16" drvr rod, plain round rod from Home Depot or Lowes etc.. Or use a mustang load of magnets.
Old 09-16-2005, 01:31 PM
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When I look in the hole, all the way down, all I can see is the cylindrical side of the lifter. If the rod goes in, it would only have friction against the side of the lifter holding it up. Not sure how clear this explanation is, wish I had a photo.
Old 09-16-2005, 01:32 PM
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I'm not sure what it looks like from the inside, but the rods are flat on one side and they are directional as well. As long as they slide in all the way your set but I have heard of some blocks having casting flashing in the way and not allowing the rod to slide in all the way.
Old 09-16-2005, 01:45 PM
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This shows you how the tool works...And how/why the lifters stay up....

Lifters
Old 09-16-2005, 02:00 PM
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So they are of different diameter over the length? I will have to look again in the morning.
Old 09-16-2005, 02:12 PM
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Late model cars (after 02) dont work with the JPR I mean JPJUNK tool
I used magnets.....
Old 09-16-2005, 02:16 PM
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The JPR tool or dowls in general don't work. This conflicts with the above. Which is correct? Now I am totally confused.
Old 09-16-2005, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JS
Late model cars (after 02) dont work with the JPR I mean JPJUNK tool
I used magnets.....
The tool is not junk the block is. Its due to casting flashing not a poor design of a tool. It also happens to be more prevelant on 02's than any other year. Pen magnets works fine, but IMHO are more mickey mouse than anything, but if thats your only choice then you do what you have to.




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