buldogg

iTrader: (1)

I am sorry if this have been talked about before I did a search on the topic and couldnt find anything. Anyways I just got through installing my FMIC on my STS setup, I got the kit from Billy at TRTTurbo, Very nice kit I might add. To the problem the charge pipe that goes accross the front of the car and then goes up to the throttle body get hotter than hell, from all the hot air blowing from the fans in the fan shroud. which in turn is causing the nice cool air straight from the IC to heat up. I am driving around doent matter if I am on the highway or not and my AIT is anywhere from 100 to 120 without me even going into boost. Has anyone else had any problems like this? One thing the pipe I am talking about that runs accross the front of the car is not the pipe he sent me I did have to fab some stuff till I get the right pipe from him. So I went down to the local muffler shop and they welded one up for me to work for now, I am thinking maybe the thicker exhaust pipe is soaking in all the heat and heating the air back up. Any thoughts? it is the only pipe that is hot under there.

One last question the guys with the FMIC where did you relocate your boost reference?

Did you run a boost/ vacum line to the front of the car? if so where did you hook it into?

thanks for any thoughts anyone can give

Blackbird

dunno how he makes his kits but you may just be stuck with higher temps due to the design of his kit.

I relocated my battery and ran my pipes that way and my cruise temps are very very low. Basically at or 2-3 degrees above ambient. You may just be stuck with higher temps due to the design of his kit.

lets see some pics of how things are routed and we can give suggestions.

buldogg

iTrader: (1)

here is a shot of the pipes so you can get a idea how they are ran
http://www.trtturbo.com/images/misc_...o_pics_005.jpg

Brent@LPE

bob you want to post some pics of how chip changed the under routing on our car?

EPP

iTrader: (22)

We didn't change the charge pipe routing, that is the one pipe we were talking about yesterday that we might wrap to help to insulate it from the heat. Bob

Blackbird

Go to www.synergymotorsports.net, then products, scroll halfway down.

I would suggest rerouting your pipes like they do. This will eliminate the heat issue your seeing.

This is a superior design to what you have in my opinion.

trtturbo

iTrader: (25)

My pipe is routed very similar to Synergy. The customer even said that all of the intercooler pipe is cool, just not the steel pipe afterward. The outlet side of the intercooler is cool to the touch also.

buldogg

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I had to use some exhaust pipe and its a lot thicker than the stuff that he is sending me. I am thinking it is soaking up all the heat and not getting rid of it like the other pipe that i will be getting.

Billy dont get me wrong this is a nice kit, I was just checking to see if anyone else had this problem with the cross over pipe. I am still seeing about 110 to 120 AITs at night when its 60-70 out. I tried wrapping it with some exhaust wrap I dont think it helped. Have you had a chance to ship that elbow and pipe out? Not a big hurry my car is drivable at the moment

Public

iTrader: (19)

So where's the MAF mounted with the synergymotorsports FMIC?

Blackbird

Will be interesting to see if temps drop with a new pipe.

Seems unlikely, as the issue seems to be that pipe running all the way back across is going to be heated by the hot air off the radiator no matter what.

May want to reconsider running all the way back across, really no need to do that,

TRT- no your kit is really not similar at all to the Synergy kit.

Synergy has datalogs showing cruise temps are at or only 2-3 degrees above ambient and under 6psi of boost they only rose 10 degrees or so.

TRT - Do you have any such logs? Would go a long way to validating your design.

public - The maf is on the pipe coming up from the outlet of the IC to to top of the engine bay. If you look at the 3rd pic on the Synergy site it's connected to that pipe running down.

BiggerJ

A thinner pipe would only make things worse as you would be moving heat more efficiently from the outside to the inside. Reroute the pipe, wrap it in insulation, or change the material to plastic would be your options.

buldogg

iTrader: (1)

Yeah but wont a thinner pipe cool off faster? The pipe I have under there right now stays hot even after about 30 minutes with the motor off

Blackbird

the whole point is that pipe should never get hot in the first place, but apparently it does based on it's location, thus the suggestion to reroute it

ls1_doc

iTrader: (6)

i agree i believe the problem is the routing in front of the radiator which leads to heatsoak in these cars because of the tightness of the motor

Rick@Synergy

iTrader: (5)

With out design, we use 3" pipe all the way on the outlet side and its stainless steel as well. Without driving, being on the dyno, I see no more than 2-3* inlet temps over ambient. And even under boost on the street with about 8-10PSI, I am lucky to get over 10* or more. So it works.

Rick