Time for an alignment......Boyce, Bill.........
#1
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: MLT
Posts: 3,755
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Time for an alignment......Boyce, Bill.........
What were the caster, camber and toe settings for a good street set up?
Boyce, where is the place that you trust to do quality alignments?
Boyce, where is the place that you trust to do quality alignments?
#3
TECH Addict
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Bellingham/Edmonds, WA
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
Aren't you going to Hooters Friday?
Bill posted road race alignment specs on here a while back. Search your feelings Luke......
Bill posted road race alignment specs on here a while back. Search your feelings Luke......
#4
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Omni in Kirkland is who I use. in gruond rack can accomidate 1/4in of clearance They do ALOT of Porch's(spelled on pupose) ,Lambo's ,Ferrari's Vipers <Bimmers and any High end car you can think of
They do all my work at a fairly reasonable rate and do it perfect every time
They do all my work at a fairly reasonable rate and do it perfect every time
#5
TECH Addict
I don't know who does great work down where you guys all are, but I do have some alignment suggestions
STREET
Toe-in: "0" toe-in, you can go 1/16 toe in if "tramming" bothers you, but it will not turn in as well
Camber: Negative 1/2 degree camber, You can go all the way to 1 degree negative without any noticeable wear problems, I've run 1 1/2 degree's negative on the street for a whole year and loved it. The tires still had acceptable wear. DO go at least 1/2 degree negative though. Don't let the alignment shop add in any "differential" camber settings to allow for road crown.
Caster: 4 1/2 degrees - again, DON'T allow the alignment shop to add in any "differential" alignment settings. You want the same on both sides
Don't take it to any high volume alignment shop i.e. Les Schwab etc. They will not give you what you ask for.
ROAD RACE
Toe-in: "0" toe-in to 1/16 toe OUT. If you toe it out it'll turn in like a monster, but will be a handful when trying to go straight. Especially under braking
Camber: 1/2 to 2 degree's or MORE negative camber. More is better on an fbody.
Caster: 4 1/2 degree's
STREET
Toe-in: "0" toe-in, you can go 1/16 toe in if "tramming" bothers you, but it will not turn in as well
Camber: Negative 1/2 degree camber, You can go all the way to 1 degree negative without any noticeable wear problems, I've run 1 1/2 degree's negative on the street for a whole year and loved it. The tires still had acceptable wear. DO go at least 1/2 degree negative though. Don't let the alignment shop add in any "differential" camber settings to allow for road crown.
Caster: 4 1/2 degrees - again, DON'T allow the alignment shop to add in any "differential" alignment settings. You want the same on both sides
Don't take it to any high volume alignment shop i.e. Les Schwab etc. They will not give you what you ask for.
ROAD RACE
Toe-in: "0" toe-in to 1/16 toe OUT. If you toe it out it'll turn in like a monster, but will be a handful when trying to go straight. Especially under braking
Camber: 1/2 to 2 degree's or MORE negative camber. More is better on an fbody.
Caster: 4 1/2 degree's
#6
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: MLT
Posts: 3,755
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Beautiful! Thank you Bill.
Any suggestions for a shop up north?
There was a shop Boyce took his car for his ORR set up that did street cars too. A bit more than the fast food shops. But I'd rather pay more and trust the shop to do what I want.
And to you two you search button monkeys.......
Any suggestions for a shop up north?
There was a shop Boyce took his car for his ORR set up that did street cars too. A bit more than the fast food shops. But I'd rather pay more and trust the shop to do what I want.
And to you two you search button monkeys.......
#7
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: MLT
Posts: 3,755
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
Omni in Kirkland is who I use. in gruond rack can accomidate 1/4in of clearance They do ALOT of Porch's(spelled on pupose) ,Lambo's ,Ferrari's Vipers <Bimmers and any High end car you can think of
They do all my work at a fairly reasonable rate and do it perfect every time
They do all my work at a fairly reasonable rate and do it perfect every time
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by Rokko
What were the caster, camber and toe settings for a good street set up?
Boyce, where is the place that you trust to do quality alignments?
Boyce, where is the place that you trust to do quality alignments?
www.speedwaremotorsports.com
#10
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: MLT
Posts: 3,755
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Red Cell
I asked Boyce this question a couple years back, he said that speedware motorsports in redmond was the place.
www.speedwaremotorsports.com
www.speedwaremotorsports.com
#11
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: MLT
Posts: 3,755
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
Rick they are usually under $100. the Number is 823-1511. They do not jump on any thing to fast but are worth the wait
I have heard speedware is good also.
I have heard speedware is good also.
#12
Banned
iTrader: (115)
Originally Posted by Racehead
I don't know who does great work down where you guys all are, but I do have some alignment suggestions
STREET
Toe-in: "0" toe-in, you can go 1/16 toe in if "tramming" bothers you, but it will not turn in as well
Camber: Negative 1/2 degree camber, You can go all the way to 1 degree negative without any noticeable wear problems, I've run 1 1/2 degree's negative on the street for a whole year and loved it. The tires still had acceptable wear. DO go at least 1/2 degree negative though. Don't let the alignment shop add in any "differential" camber settings to allow for road crown.
Caster: 4 1/2 degrees - again, DON'T allow the alignment shop to add in any "differential" alignment settings. You want the same on both sides
Don't take it to any high volume alignment shop i.e. Les Schwab etc. They will not give you what you ask for.
ROAD RACE
Toe-in: "0" toe-in to 1/16 toe OUT. If you toe it out it'll turn in like a monster, but will be a handful when trying to go straight. Especially under braking
Camber: 1/2 to 2 degree's or MORE negative camber. More is better on an fbody.
Caster: 4 1/2 degree's
STREET
Toe-in: "0" toe-in, you can go 1/16 toe in if "tramming" bothers you, but it will not turn in as well
Camber: Negative 1/2 degree camber, You can go all the way to 1 degree negative without any noticeable wear problems, I've run 1 1/2 degree's negative on the street for a whole year and loved it. The tires still had acceptable wear. DO go at least 1/2 degree negative though. Don't let the alignment shop add in any "differential" camber settings to allow for road crown.
Caster: 4 1/2 degrees - again, DON'T allow the alignment shop to add in any "differential" alignment settings. You want the same on both sides
Don't take it to any high volume alignment shop i.e. Les Schwab etc. They will not give you what you ask for.
ROAD RACE
Toe-in: "0" toe-in to 1/16 toe OUT. If you toe it out it'll turn in like a monster, but will be a handful when trying to go straight. Especially under braking
Camber: 1/2 to 2 degree's or MORE negative camber. More is better on an fbody.
Caster: 4 1/2 degree's
#13
TECH Addict
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
I went with as much negative camber as it would allow. The car only lets you go up to like -1.2 or something, the guy showed it to me, the bolt was all the way against the backside and there wasnt any more adjustment in it. Your right LewSchwab didnt like to do it and mocked me when I asked for the specs I did, but they did do it. I went with as much neg camber as possible zero toe and 4.5 on the caster. Car handles great cornering and wasnt that bad in a straight line. Les Schwab mocked me and told me the car would wander all over the freeway. It didn't. With the crown in the road the standard is a little toe to compensate for the falling off effect but with the ruts in the road its like a slot car race anyway. I didnt notice that much of a difference in straight line control as I'm always fighting to stay out of the ruts and on the high side.
BTW Les Schwab won't spend the extra time to make sure both sides are EXACT. They'll be close, but not spot on. At least this has been my experience. Also the print out they give you doesn't mean squat
#16
Originally Posted by howierd42
That is REALLY good for them. They are about as overpriced as it gets.
Now I own the machine we did the work with. I bought it from Les when they upgraded. I've been dying to try it out so if anyone wants to give it a whirl, now's the time!