Anyone have some Idle issues after installing 85mm MAF?
10-06-2005, 10:45 AM
#1
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Anyone have some Idle issues after installing 85mm MAF? Installed a Pace "calibrated" 85mm MAF and had to scoot to work w/o idle relearn. Of course the car didnt want to idle. Got into a not so quiet neighborhood, restarted the car, turned AC on for 5 min, then off for 5 min while letting it idle, seems to be able to idle but not like it did prior to MAF swap. Should I pull the BAT/PCM fuse and redo it again? And should it be done in gear AC on and off for 5 min each also? Or is it just me needing to get off my lazy *** and dial in the MAF for my car via VE and MAF calibration? BTW, HPTuners is being used.
Charlie
Charlie
10-06-2005, 10:56 AM
#2
You will probably need to get the VE right and then Calibrate the MAF. My 85mm Pace was calibrated as a stock LS1 OEM unit so be sure not to use the ZO6 table for a starting point. You'll also have to get the effective area in line. Good luck!
10-06-2005, 12:30 PM
#4
yea, i stopped messing with MAF calibration <5500Hz, it doesn't get enough pressure to yield consistant values. above that however, it is very precise. that's why the stock PCM program uses it exclusively for airflow measurement >4000rpm (assuming that you'd be pushing a lot of air at that rpm, since few people want to cruise at light throttle at 4krpm)
10-06-2005, 02:45 PM
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Not to question everybody's decison in here. But why do you guys need a after market MAF or ported MAF. They are a pain in the *** to tune and use and they mess up the calibrations on your computers. I have seen people with 500 RWHP cars that still uses the stock unit and not have any problems with them.
10-06-2005, 02:51 PM
#6
even stock units become miscalibrated the moment you seriously alter volumetric efficiency of your system. so it doesn't matter whether it's stock or aftermarket, you're gonna have to readjust it anyway. if you're gonna be recalibrating it, might as well give it a bigger pipe, and let it breathe easier.
10-06-2005, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by GREATWALLTA
Not to question everybody's decison in here. But why do you guys need a after market MAF or ported MAF. They are a pain in the *** to tune and use and they mess up the calibrations on your computers. I have seen people with 500 RWHP cars that still uses the stock unit and not have any problems with them.
So, I guess I need to tune SD-VE mode and then MAF, then RAF and tweak idle vs advance vs everything else until its good. ****. Not wanting to do that until I swap engines....oh well. Thanks guru's, big Mahalo's out to you.
Charlie
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10-06-2005, 04:12 PM
#8
order of things to do:
0. hardware config <--super important, without it done right tuning anything else will be tained with bullshit
1. idle tune. make your life easy, don't stall, don't dump unnecessary fuel on poor O2's making tuning harder later.
2. VE another super important one. it is THE map of your system's breathing ability, without it reflecting The Truth, everything else will be bullshit tainted again.
3. MAF map your VE onto your MAF, so no matter which mode you're in, you're always correct. MAF is very 'noisy', while VE isn't flexible like the MAF is. So by combining efforts, you end up with the best of both worlds.
tune on, brother!
0. hardware config <--super important, without it done right tuning anything else will be tained with bullshit
1. idle tune. make your life easy, don't stall, don't dump unnecessary fuel on poor O2's making tuning harder later.
2. VE another super important one. it is THE map of your system's breathing ability, without it reflecting The Truth, everything else will be bullshit tainted again.
3. MAF map your VE onto your MAF, so no matter which mode you're in, you're always correct. MAF is very 'noisy', while VE isn't flexible like the MAF is. So by combining efforts, you end up with the best of both worlds.
tune on, brother!
10-06-2005, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by RedHardSupra
order of things to do:
0. hardware config <--super important, without it done right tuning anything else will be tained with bullshit
1. idle tune. make your life easy, don't stall, don't dump unnecessary fuel on poor O2's making tuning harder later.
2. VE another super important one. it is THE map of your system's breathing ability, without it reflecting The Truth, everything else will be bullshit tainted again.
3. MAF map your VE onto your MAF, so no matter which mode you're in, you're always correct. MAF is very 'noisy', while VE isn't flexible like the MAF is. So by combining efforts, you end up with the best of both worlds.
tune on, brother!
0. hardware config <--super important, without it done right tuning anything else will be tained with bullshit
1. idle tune. make your life easy, don't stall, don't dump unnecessary fuel on poor O2's making tuning harder later.
2. VE another super important one. it is THE map of your system's breathing ability, without it reflecting The Truth, everything else will be bullshit tainted again.
3. MAF map your VE onto your MAF, so no matter which mode you're in, you're always correct. MAF is very 'noisy', while VE isn't flexible like the MAF is. So by combining efforts, you end up with the best of both worlds.
tune on, brother!
Plugged stock MAF back in, turned key, started right up and caught idle w/o a problem
