What's the best I can do without a cam?
#1
What's the best I can do without a cam?
Hey guys, I am trying to figure out what mods I want to do next, I'm pretty sure next on the list is headers and a cutout but it makes me wonder. Whats the best kind of times I can see with just boltons , no cam, no FI? . High 11s maybe ?
Right now I have a lid and hooker catback, havent even taken it to the track yet. Probably will by the end of the month.
Like I said I am going to do headers and cutout , then probably underdrive pulley , maybe a convertor, and eventually a 90/90 (< is that a waste w/out a cam?). I really dont want to do a cam until I can afford the gas since it is my daily driver.
Also I want to stay away from the spray Nawwwwwws kinda scares me :-p
Right now I have a lid and hooker catback, havent even taken it to the track yet. Probably will by the end of the month.
Like I said I am going to do headers and cutout , then probably underdrive pulley , maybe a convertor, and eventually a 90/90 (< is that a waste w/out a cam?). I really dont want to do a cam until I can afford the gas since it is my daily driver.
Also I want to stay away from the spray Nawwwwwws kinda scares me :-p
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Well if you want to make most power possible w/out cam:
Longtube - 1 7/8
Intake - Fast 90 (get a diff 90 mm tb)
Converter
Cutout
Underdrive pully
And if you want times, get a 12 bolt and slicks
Longtube - 1 7/8
Intake - Fast 90 (get a diff 90 mm tb)
Converter
Cutout
Underdrive pully
And if you want times, get a 12 bolt and slicks
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Originally Posted by Zymosis
Longtube - 1 7/8
Intake - Fast 90 (get a diff 90 mm tb)
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Get a good set of 1 3/4" long tubes (QTP's, Kooks), go full bolt on's (lid, some sort of ram air, ported TB, cutout, UD pulley), get a converter (minimum 3500 stall...i would personally do at least a 4000 stall), and a set of stick tires. This should be good for high to mid 11's in good conditions.
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Some people are cutting low 12's with just a converter, lid and catback I was going to do a converter first, but sence I need a tune and bigger tires ( only 245's right now ) I've decided to get LT's + suspension mods, then save for some nice tires to slap a 315 meat out back.
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Originally Posted by skewba98z28
A stall though is going to rob a few MPG's though
#11
Originally Posted by BlueSix
Only in the city. A lot of H/C cars get better mileage than stock on the highway.
So some people with a head and cam are seeing BETTER than stock gas mileage with heads and a cam????? In that case what do you think an M6 with long tubes and not too radical of a cam and some good heads could see on the hwy and in the city?
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If you want to improve your ETs, FIRST thing should be a converter and a set of ET Streets or comparable tire. Take me for example, I have a lid, everything else is stock, including exhaust. Was running 13.5s on street tires. Added a ST Yank 4000 converter and a set of ET streets and my times dropped to 12.5s. LT headers will definitely wake the car up, but will it yield you a second like the converter did, NOPE!
#14
I would rather start with the stuff that won't kill my gas mileage, headers, cutout, intake, etc. Then do converter and possibly gears, since I only have 273s.
Also if I put some bigger tires on it what is the likelihood I will break the rear end? Because thats one thing I really can't afford to replace any time soon.
Also since the 90/90 is out, would a ported TB and an LS6 intake be worth it since the LS6s can be picked up for pretty cheap.
Last thing, Is there any benefit to using two cutouts right after the headers rather than one on the I pipe?
Also if I put some bigger tires on it what is the likelihood I will break the rear end? Because thats one thing I really can't afford to replace any time soon.
Also since the 90/90 is out, would a ported TB and an LS6 intake be worth it since the LS6s can be picked up for pretty cheap.
Last thing, Is there any benefit to using two cutouts right after the headers rather than one on the I pipe?
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Originally Posted by Luna
I would rather start with the stuff that won't kill my gas mileage, headers, cutout, intake, etc. Then do converter and possibly gears, since I only have 273s.
Also if I put some bigger tires on it what is the likelihood I will break the rear end? Because thats one thing I really can't afford to replace any time soon.
Also since the 90/90 is out, would a ported TB and an LS6 intake be worth it since the LS6s can be picked up for pretty cheap.
Last thing, Is there any benefit to using two cutouts right after the headers rather than one on the I pipe?
Also if I put some bigger tires on it what is the likelihood I will break the rear end? Because thats one thing I really can't afford to replace any time soon.
Also since the 90/90 is out, would a ported TB and an LS6 intake be worth it since the LS6s can be picked up for pretty cheap.
Last thing, Is there any benefit to using two cutouts right after the headers rather than one on the I pipe?
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Originally Posted by Whisper
So some people with a head and cam are seeing BETTER than stock gas mileage with heads and a cam????? In that case what do you think an M6 with long tubes and not too radical of a cam and some good heads could see on the hwy and in the city?
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Originally Posted by Whisper
So some people with a head and cam are seeing BETTER than stock gas mileage with heads and a cam????? In that case what do you think an M6 with long tubes and not too radical of a cam and some good heads could see on the hwy and in the city?
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Don't foret the susp. also. All the power in the world won't help if you can't but it to the ground. A set of lca, torque arm, and most impotantly on a t-top car subframe connectors.
#20
Originally Posted by exstanger
Don't foret the susp. also. All the power in the world won't help if you can't but it to the ground. A set of lca, torque arm, and most impotantly on a t-top car subframe connectors.
i'm almost positive the roof of a hardtop car is the exact same underneath as a t-top car, with the main support down the middle.