KB99WS6

iTrader: (6)

Doing a H/C swap on my 01 Z06. GM bolts are like $32 and the ARP head bolts are $136. Is it worth the extra $104 to get the ARP bolts? My car will not see more than 450rwhp.

Also: this is the list of gaskets/bolts I am buying to do the swap. Anything I am missing?
-GM Head gaskets
-ARP Head bolt kit
-GM Exh manifold gaskets
-GM Crank bolt
-GM Front main seal
-GM water pump gaskets
-GM front timing cover gasket

smask04C5

iTrader: (1)

Studs are even better, IMO

KB99WS6

iTrader: (6)

Well I don't want to pay $250 for a set of studs. I think maybe if you are doing a 600rwhp+ engine than maybe ok, but I don't think its neccesary for my needs. I think its crazy enough to pay $136 for a set of freakin bolts. Thats why I want to know if its worth it to get the ARP bolts over the GM ones...

Lady Redhawk

iTrader: (6)

I didn't have good luck with ARP Bolts and wish I had stayed with stock TTY bolts. There are others that have not had a problem, but I lifted a head with them: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/392171-blew-head-gasket-why-pictures-inside.html

bichin95redta

GM OEM head bolts are torque to yield, one-time-only use bolts....use 'em once, and throw 'em away.

OEM cylinder head torque to yield specs:
1st pass all M11 bolts in sequence 22 ft-lb
2nd pass all M11 bolts in sequence 90 degrees
final pass all M11 bolts in sequence, excluding the medium length bolts at the front & rear of each cylinder head 90 degrees
final pass medium length M11 bolts at the front & rear of each cylinder head 50 degrees
M8 inner bolts in sequence 22 ft-lb

If you can afford 'em, go with the ARP studs. The studs should come with the proper torque specs. Studs also clamp more evenly, without the twisting associated with bolts.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Get the head bolts if you don't wanna spend a lot of money and you're going to be pulling the heads enough to warrant the reuse of bolts. If u're not, then just go with GM bolts. You're not going to be making enough horsepower for studs to make a difference. I have them, but that's because I don't skimp on things, I like the peace of mind of overkill.

KB99WS6

iTrader: (6)

I just want to make sure i don't have any problems. Reading all these stories of people having problems, with blown head gaskets, lifted heads, leaks etc etc, after their swap b/c of gasket/bolt/install problems. makin me freakin nervous.

And I finding all different opinions. Some say ARP bolts, some say GM bolts, some say ARP studs. uggh.

I do not plan on pulling the heads back off and the car will most likely never see more than 450rwhp., but at the same time i want the most foolproof, problem proof one...

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

You don't NEED studs. ARP bolts would def be a good all arond upgrade for added safety and peace of mind. If you do things correctly you have nothing to worry about. It's when people make mistakes and possibly try to skimp on things is when there's problems.

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

get the gm bolts for $32. i was making 455rwhp and i used them with no problems. heck, theres alot of people running turbo setups making way more than 450 and their using the gm bolts.

IN DEBT

I had no issues with my ARP Head Bolts.

ssheets

iTrader: (1)

I bought the GM bolts. I used the logic that I don't plan on pulling the heads again anytime in the next few years so no need to pay for reusable ARPs.

Lady Redhawk

iTrader: (6)

Everything was done piercingly and correctly according to ARP directions in my case. We have done countless head installs and don't we scrimp on anything, that is not our way. I do not recomend ARP bolts. ARP studs are fine or GM torque to yeld bolts are good for your HP.

BadAssFast

iTrader: (2)

I'm not genius but after paying for AFRs today...i'll be damned if I was going to let a little $$ difference keep me from doing what I think is a better thing: 12 pt ARP studs. My mechaic said to, Jason at AFR said so....

RPO_Z06

iTrader: (11)

I went with studs but I tend to go overkill when doing things, the one thing I can say for sure is nobody has an issue with the studs, they work...

racecar

ARP studs are expensive, but they are heat treated high quality steel. I have had the heads off three times this year with no problems with studs, threads, or the block.

ssheets

iTrader: (1)

On an Fbody will the heads clear the studs with motor in place?

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Yep, kinda tight but they will clear them.

cowboysfan

if you dont see any justification on why to use arp/studs, then go with gm bolts. I planning a h/c swap and using gm bolts. just my .02 .


fuerzaws6

KB99WS6

iTrader: (6)

Well let me ask you guys a question,
I did a lot of research last night and ran into lots of threads where people had problems with bolts, moreso ARP than GM actually. Blown head gaskets, heads lifting, leaking, etc etc. Different possible reasons were given like some GM blocks are threaded all the way down, the wrong width or type gasket was used, they weren't torqued properly, than I was reading about how ARP gives inconsistent directions between their website on how to cycle them, than heard from Chris @ ECS that they had a stock head bolt crack the block b/c the heads were milled and the bolt bottomed out. etc etc. I mean guys ewre talking about well my heads were milled .25 so I went with a .45 cometic and this and that and i have no idea what the proper height should be, and after reading all this I was like holy ****.

So my question is this: Do the ARP studs eliminate pretty much all these problems? Like does it not matter if your heads are milled or if the block wasn't threaded all the way down by GM, or if your head gasket isn't the perfect thickness. And is there no way to really torque them wrong etc etc??

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

The studs are screwed into the block first. Any length issues would results in having more threads above the nut when installed. Based on your question, I think studs would eliminate all of those issues you have identified.