what should I do to get into 11s but stay relatively streetable?
10-24-2005, 02:49 AM
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Saying hi. Appreciate help. Hello everyone. Gotta say I love this site. So fast, responses and posts so quick. Anyways, have an 02 SS A4. Spending limit capped at 3g's. Make my car fast. I don't care about peak hp/tq #'s. If I only gained 20 or so but dropped into 11's, that'd be awesome. I want to try to hit 11's. Was thinking LT's, cam, springs, torque converter, etc. Don't think I have $ for heads. Car is my DD so must stay relatively streetable. Help a college student out. Quality used parts also appreciated. Thanks for the welcoming.
Daniel
Daniel
10-24-2005, 08:31 AM
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Sounds like your on the right path. You can hit 11's one of 2 ways while remaining streetable. First is get all the worth while bolt-ons. Free mods, Lid, Catback, LT headers with ORY, Port your TB, Underdrive pulley, 3400-3600 stall with at least 2.5 STR, Tranny cooler, Shift kit and MOST importantly drag radials for traction. With a dyno tune on top of those mods you should be capable of high 11's with a good launch (1.7 60') and decent racing conditions (cool weather and reasonable track elevation). Unfortunately this is not cheap since the above list can easily run you $3000. But you would be NA and probably very consistant.
Another option like Thunderstruck said is N20. You could just go Lid, Cutout, 3500 stall, Drag radials and a 125 wetshot. That would definately get you there but then you would only run that fast when the bottle is armed and dangerous. Once the bottle goes dry your reduced to running high 12's.
Personally I would wait on N20 and go for all the bolt-ons first. Headers and torque converters are expensive but are both such a must have for these cars. After that you could start saving for either a cam, N20 or both
I would avoid used parts. Problem is if they don't work then you have no recourse to get a replacement or refund. I would just keep an eye on sponor sales and group purchases. Also look at the bang for the buck mods like Fuddle/TCI for torque converters, Pacesetter for LT headers, ect.
Good luck
Another option like Thunderstruck said is N20. You could just go Lid, Cutout, 3500 stall, Drag radials and a 125 wetshot. That would definately get you there but then you would only run that fast when the bottle is armed and dangerous. Once the bottle goes dry your reduced to running high 12's.
Personally I would wait on N20 and go for all the bolt-ons first. Headers and torque converters are expensive but are both such a must have for these cars. After that you could start saving for either a cam, N20 or both
I would avoid used parts. Problem is if they don't work then you have no recourse to get a replacement or refund. I would just keep an eye on sponor sales and group purchases. Also look at the bang for the buck mods like Fuddle/TCI for torque converters, Pacesetter for LT headers, ect.
Good luck
10-24-2005, 09:08 AM
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One bit of advice on a cam. Do a lot of research in the internal section here before picking a cam. For cams to be most effective they need to be matched with heads (even if you stick with stock heads), stall and gears. The bigger the cam, the more stall and gears you would need to make full use of the cam. And if you are not able to install it yourself then a cam with all the goodies needed can be very costly. You could easily find that after torque converter, LT headers and tires there is not enough left over (from the 3K you have to spend) to do a cam and proper tune.
3500-3800 stalls are very streetable (IMO) and will be a good fit with most aftermarket cams. So I would get that size torque converter and build up from there. Then if later on you decide you need more you can always have it restalled.
Good luck with your ride and with college
3500-3800 stalls are very streetable (IMO) and will be a good fit with most aftermarket cams. So I would get that size torque converter and build up from there. Then if later on you decide you need more you can always have it restalled.
Good luck with your ride and with college
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10-24-2005, 10:46 AM
#9
I would do like darren said, get all the bolt ons that matter and some sticky tires and that should put you in the mid to high 11s. Don't forget about your chassis, you may want to get a torque arm and definetely subframe connectors
And I agree nitrous is the easy way out, plus it kinda scares me :/
And I agree nitrous is the easy way out, plus it kinda scares me :/
10-24-2005, 06:15 PM
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Definately a little scared about N2O. I'm not stuck with staying N/A, but I dont want to go the route of nitrous. A friend offered me a powerdyne kit for next to nothing. I thought maybe go this route with 6psi, pacesetters, the other minor bolt ons, and then I'd still need a stall right? What would you guys do if virtually handed a powerdyne and wanted to make the very best of the situaiton on a budget. Thanks for all the feedback. Loving it!
Daniel
Daniel
10-24-2005, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by monicaz28
Spraying the car is just the cheapest, smartest, most economical and most effective way of getting his car to the 11s.
10-25-2005, 02:15 AM
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I've posted this elsewhere but got no response, maybe you guys can give me some feedback:
So my setup is a powerdyne at 6psi, Pacesetters, lid, SLP MAF, Smooth Bellows, Stock catback w/cutout, B&M Supercooler, and taking it in for a dyno tune. What sort of dyno #'s and times do you think I could expect with this setup on a good tune? Also recommended places to get tuned in Northern California? The car is an 02 SS A4 and I wanted to know if the TCI SSF 3500 stall 2.5str was a good purchase (very lightly used) for 330 bucks shipped? Was this a good stall to get for my setup? Thanks guys!
Daniel
So my setup is a powerdyne at 6psi, Pacesetters, lid, SLP MAF, Smooth Bellows, Stock catback w/cutout, B&M Supercooler, and taking it in for a dyno tune. What sort of dyno #'s and times do you think I could expect with this setup on a good tune? Also recommended places to get tuned in Northern California? The car is an 02 SS A4 and I wanted to know if the TCI SSF 3500 stall 2.5str was a good purchase (very lightly used) for 330 bucks shipped? Was this a good stall to get for my setup? Thanks guys!
Daniel
10-25-2005, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by mattkimsey
I think it would be cool to get the car running 11's on motor.....then install the N20
LT's are going in now. I'll finish off bolt-ons this winter (pulley, ported TB and a few suspension upgrades), get a somewhat streetable heads/cam package next winter (thinking in the ballpark of a 230/230 114 lsa cam with a good tune) and then top off with a 100-150 wetshot. My wife is sooooo gonna kill me
10-25-2005, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeyAnderson
Fixed.
I'm not against the laugh gas at all...
I just think you should focus on the n/a beforehand. That's what I'm doing. But if you do plan on putting nitrous on the car, make sure you get the mods that work best with it.
And I love the powerdyne idea.
10-25-2005, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by LastBlack02SS
Hello everyone. Gotta say I love this site. So fast, responses and posts so quick. Anyways, have an 02 SS A4. Spending limit capped at 3g's. Make my car fast. I don't care about peak hp/tq #'s. If I only gained 20 or so but dropped into 11's, that'd be awesome. I want to try to hit 11's. Was thinking LT's, cam, springs, torque converter, etc. Don't think I have $ for heads. Car is my DD so must stay relatively streetable. Help a college student out. Quality used parts also appreciated. Thanks for the welcoming.
Daniel
Daniel
Running stock exhaust manifolds/cats keeps the noise down and the tuning simple. The cam didn't really need a tune either. However, with the Crane tuner I'm able to get it to idle more cleanly than with no tune.
If your interested, I will tell you more details about the setup.
10-25-2005, 09:32 PM
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I think the powerdyne setup with the other stuff is what I'm sticking too. Just got a TCI 3500 2.5 str too. This a good one for a powerdyne setup like mine?
10-25-2005, 10:22 PM
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Pacesetter LT's--coated run what like $375
ORY $125 (or mod your stock one with so reducers)
Cat-Back Or a Cut-Out $300 or $60
Stall 3200 - 3500 $400 - $699
Dry shot - 125 $600
Total: $2099 (about that much if you do it your self)
whatever you do good luck, and if you know what you want stick with it and dont get to far off track.--Andrew
ORY $125 (or mod your stock one with so reducers)
Cat-Back Or a Cut-Out $300 or $60
Stall 3200 - 3500 $400 - $699
Dry shot - 125 $600
Total: $2099 (about that much if you do it your self)
whatever you do good luck, and if you know what you want stick with it and dont get to far off track.--Andrew