Does a new torque converter need an easy break-in period?
10-26-2005, 01:02 PM
#4
YES,YES,A new converter does need a brake-in
The way to do it is drive the car or truck at light throttle for about 50 miles then start to increase throttle amount a little at a time, then get up to highway speeds tap the brake (this will allow the converter to lock and unlock)
do this around 50 times to help seat in the new clutch and matting surface
it will take about 150 miles to seat the bearings,roller clutch and the clutch.
DO NOT brake stall or go full throttle with a converter that has a clutch untill this is done!!!
doing this will cause the roller clutch,bearings or the clutch's life to be reduced by a lot!!
Most converter failures happen from brake stalling the converter just after it was installed!
Thank's for asking this!
Mike
The way to do it is drive the car or truck at light throttle for about 50 miles then start to increase throttle amount a little at a time, then get up to highway speeds tap the brake (this will allow the converter to lock and unlock)
do this around 50 times to help seat in the new clutch and matting surface
it will take about 150 miles to seat the bearings,roller clutch and the clutch.
DO NOT brake stall or go full throttle with a converter that has a clutch untill this is done!!!
doing this will cause the roller clutch,bearings or the clutch's life to be reduced by a lot!!
Most converter failures happen from brake stalling the converter just after it was installed!
Thank's for asking this!
Mike
10-26-2005, 01:05 PM
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Chicago - Southside
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Before you drive the car, hold the brake and shift through each gear, leaving it in gear, for 20 seconds each gear, to let the fluid circulate. I drove mine gently, until I was sure it locked up, and stalled properly under light throttle. After that, when everything was warmed up, I nailed it.
10-27-2005, 08:35 AM
#6
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Warsaw, Va
Posts: 4,316
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i drove a few miles untill it was warmed up to make sure everything was shifting and working right. Then wel... after that it was tire smoke. Been working great since 99 knock on wood
Dunno if vig's are made any different or not or maybe i got a good one
50 miles doesnt seem like to far anyway.. just getv to driving and then nail it after 50miles
Dunno if vig's are made any different or not or maybe i got a good one50 miles doesnt seem like to far anyway.. just getv to driving and then nail it after 50miles
10-27-2005, 09:24 AM
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: edison, nj
Posts: 1,095
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i would say there is a break in period of say 10-20 miles or so. I say this caues you will want to drive the car and check for any problems like leaking trans lines/leaking pan gasket(some shops change the filter and fluid during a converter install). You will want to make sure all gears work,make sure the converter is locking up/unlocking and you get no codes at all. When this is all done then its fun time. This is just a precaution and is more of a check that everything was installed correctly and there are no computer problems with it. Nothing like blasting down the highway only to find the installers never tightened the trans lines all the way...
Trending Topics
10-28-2005, 07:02 AM
#9
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Monticello, MN
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Yank
YES,YES,A new converter does need a brake-in
The way to do it is drive the car or truck at light throttle for about 50 miles then start to increase throttle amount a little at a time, then get up to highway speeds tap the brake (this will allow the converter to lock and unlock)
do this around 50 times to help seat in the new clutch and matting surface
it will take about 150 miles to seat the bearings,roller clutch and the clutch.
DO NOT brake stall or go full throttle with a converter that has a clutch untill this is done!!!
doing this will cause the roller clutch,bearings or the clutch's life to be reduced by a lot!!
Most converter failures happen from brake stalling the converter just after it was installed!
Thank's for asking this!
Mike
The way to do it is drive the car or truck at light throttle for about 50 miles then start to increase throttle amount a little at a time, then get up to highway speeds tap the brake (this will allow the converter to lock and unlock)
do this around 50 times to help seat in the new clutch and matting surface
it will take about 150 miles to seat the bearings,roller clutch and the clutch.
DO NOT brake stall or go full throttle with a converter that has a clutch untill this is done!!!
doing this will cause the roller clutch,bearings or the clutch's life to be reduced by a lot!!
Most converter failures happen from brake stalling the converter just after it was installed!
Thank's for asking this!
Mike
Thanks, Mike. I have a heads/cam/longtubes, etc., C5. I have ordered a Yank SS3200 for it and plan on keeping my 3.15 gears. Also, at the same time, I'm going to be installing a Shaner ported throttle body. I know the SS3200 is supposed to be pretty tight, which is why I ordered that particular model as I want maximum drivability, but figured the Shaner would also increase the perception of tightness by increased throttle response.
When I get both installed, I will take the car back for a week, or so, in order to follow your instructions on converter break-in, after which I will let my tuner have his way with it to clean everything up. I will be gettting another dyno run with it, also, and do not want to do that with the fresh converter.
Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it!
Ed
11-15-2005, 07:57 PM
#10
10 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: orlando, fl
Posts: 4,266
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Yank
YES,YES,A new converter does need a brake-in
The way to do it is drive the car or truck at light throttle for about 50 miles then start to increase throttle amount a little at a time, then get up to highway speeds tap the brake (this will allow the converter to lock and unlock)
do this around 50 times to help seat in the new clutch and matting surface
it will take about 150 miles to seat the bearings,roller clutch and the clutch.
DO NOT brake stall or go full throttle with a converter that has a clutch untill this is done!!!
doing this will cause the roller clutch,bearings or the clutch's life to be reduced by a lot!!
Most converter failures happen from brake stalling the converter just after it was installed!
Thank's for asking this!
Mike
The way to do it is drive the car or truck at light throttle for about 50 miles then start to increase throttle amount a little at a time, then get up to highway speeds tap the brake (this will allow the converter to lock and unlock)
do this around 50 times to help seat in the new clutch and matting surface
it will take about 150 miles to seat the bearings,roller clutch and the clutch.
DO NOT brake stall or go full throttle with a converter that has a clutch untill this is done!!!
doing this will cause the roller clutch,bearings or the clutch's life to be reduced by a lot!!
Most converter failures happen from brake stalling the converter just after it was installed!
Thank's for asking this!
Mike
let's go over your instructions. as i do not want to void my warranty because i didn't follow these instructions that were not provided with my converter.
what do you consider light throttle for the first 50 miles?
what is highway speeds? 60? 70? 80?
should i do the unlock/lock 50 times in a row? or say once every 5 miles? 50 times for 100 miles after the first 50 miles.
11-15-2005, 09:23 PM
#11
Originally Posted by mrr23
seeing as this is my third yank converter i have bought, why are there no instructions eluding to this break-in period? 3 converters purchased. 3 converters without these specific instructions. matter of fact, none at all. not everyone reads the internet or your website to get these instructions.
let's go over your instructions. as i do not want to void my warranty because i didn't follow these instructions that were not provided with my converter.
what do you consider light throttle for the first 50 miles?
what is highway speeds? 60? 70? 80?
should i do the unlock/lock 50 times in a row? or say once every 5 miles? 50 times for 100 miles after the first 50 miles.
let's go over your instructions. as i do not want to void my warranty because i didn't follow these instructions that were not provided with my converter.
what do you consider light throttle for the first 50 miles?
what is highway speeds? 60? 70? 80?
should i do the unlock/lock 50 times in a row? or say once every 5 miles? 50 times for 100 miles after the first 50 miles.
11-15-2005, 10:40 PM
#12
11 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Amite, La
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I broke mine in on the return road at the dragstrip. I then let it idle to temperature, did a burout and then left at 3000 rpm's and it has never been slower than a 12 sec pass.
11-16-2005, 07:48 AM
#15
With Yank Converters as they are all new parts (this is not the case with some other converters in the market as are built out of used parts)
To start with you need to seat the roller clutch in as it takes the over run action ( locking & unlocked and spinning at engine speeds) to polish in the surface of the rollers inner race and outer race or cam in the stator.
also the roller bearings in the converter need to smooth out and polish in,
the clutch surface is still rough as it is new and will need to seat in also
to do this drive normal with no max throttle for about 150 miles (any speed is ok for this)
cycle the clutch this action will work harden the lining material and allow full contact area the same as a brake in on a new set of brake pads and rotors.
when you go WOT it puts a extreme load on the internals and if they are not in shape you can get the roller clutch or sprag to fail and the lock up surface to glaze.
Failure to follow brake-in will shorten the life and effect the performance of the unit.
I will have a complete Brake - in sheet posted on our site soon
www.converter.cc
Thank's for the ?
Mike
To start with you need to seat the roller clutch in as it takes the over run action ( locking & unlocked and spinning at engine speeds) to polish in the surface of the rollers inner race and outer race or cam in the stator.
also the roller bearings in the converter need to smooth out and polish in,
the clutch surface is still rough as it is new and will need to seat in also
to do this drive normal with no max throttle for about 150 miles (any speed is ok for this)
cycle the clutch this action will work harden the lining material and allow full contact area the same as a brake in on a new set of brake pads and rotors.
when you go WOT it puts a extreme load on the internals and if they are not in shape you can get the roller clutch or sprag to fail and the lock up surface to glaze.
Failure to follow brake-in will shorten the life and effect the performance of the unit.
I will have a complete Brake - in sheet posted on our site soon
www.converter.cc
Thank's for the ?
Mike
11-16-2005, 09:03 AM
#16
TECH Addict
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Kzoo, MI
Posts: 2,289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Interesting. I have no idea how much of a test drive the shop who installed my trans and converter took after installing it to make sure everything was working properly, but I do remember driving it easy for awhile. After all it was in december when I had it done, so with it being cold out side I didn't really do much but drive around normal.
Matt
Matt
11-16-2005, 08:05 PM
#17
10 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: orlando, fl
Posts: 4,266
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Yank
With Yank Converters as they are all new parts (this is not the case with some other converters in the market as are built out of used parts)
To start with you need to seat the roller clutch in as it takes the over run action ( locking & unlocked and spinning at engine speeds) to polish in the surface of the rollers inner race and outer race or cam in the stator.
also the roller bearings in the converter need to smooth out and polish in,
the clutch surface is still rough as it is new and will need to seat in also
to do this drive normal with no max throttle for about 150 miles (any speed is ok for this)
cycle the clutch this action will work harden the lining material and allow full contact area the same as a brake in on a new set of brake pads and rotors.
when you go WOT it puts a extreme load on the internals and if they are not in shape you can get the roller clutch or sprag to fail and the lock up surface to glaze.
Failure to follow brake-in will shorten the life and effect the performance of the unit.
I will have a complete Brake - in sheet posted on our site soon
www.converter.cc
Thank's for the ?
Mike
To start with you need to seat the roller clutch in as it takes the over run action ( locking & unlocked and spinning at engine speeds) to polish in the surface of the rollers inner race and outer race or cam in the stator.
also the roller bearings in the converter need to smooth out and polish in,
the clutch surface is still rough as it is new and will need to seat in also
to do this drive normal with no max throttle for about 150 miles (any speed is ok for this)
cycle the clutch this action will work harden the lining material and allow full contact area the same as a brake in on a new set of brake pads and rotors.
when you go WOT it puts a extreme load on the internals and if they are not in shape you can get the roller clutch or sprag to fail and the lock up surface to glaze.
Failure to follow brake-in will shorten the life and effect the performance of the unit.
I will have a complete Brake - in sheet posted on our site soon
www.converter.cc
Thank's for the ?
Mike
when will you include it on your boxes when you ship a converter?
now which is it?
Originally Posted by Yank
The way to do it is drive the car or truck at light throttle for about 50 miles then start to increase throttle amount a little at a time, then get up to highway speeds
Originally Posted by Yank
new and will need to seat in also
to do this drive normal with no max throttle for about 150 miles (any speed is ok for this)
to do this drive normal with no max throttle for about 150 miles (any speed is ok for this)
11-17-2005, 04:38 PM
#20
Originally Posted by jxaxsxoxn
You'd think one of the most expensive converter brands out there would come with this information to prevent the above. But what the hell do I know.
