My attempt at minitubbing
11-23-2005, 03:49 PM
#1
My attempt at minitubbing Well after looking at a few pics and asking some questions here goes my attempt at minitubbing my hooptie. I guess I'm done cutting and grinding what I needed to. Now I just need to get some sheet metal or aluminum and make the tubs like BTLFED did his which seemed to be the easiest method.
11-24-2005, 07:30 AM
#5
Originally Posted by Tom the roofer
Hey looks great. I cut mine a little further than you did. I did mine just like the Wolfe Racecraft pics on their web site. I'm as far along as you are 
FASTFATBOY, did you weld your new wheel wells in?
FASTFATBOY, did you weld your new wheel wells in?
Yes, they are 1 inch tacks about every 3-4 inches, any more and the heat would distort it all. Then we fiberglassed the seams on the inside, and body seam sealed it on the outside....she be water/smoke tight
David
11-24-2005, 12:31 PM
#6
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You cut the drivers side a little to much, I did the exact same thing, but since your making your own tubs its not a big deal
I welded mine every 4 inches, one inch weld. then i went to home depot and got some metal caulk sealer and a gun and went to town.
I welded mine every 4 inches, one inch weld. then i went to home depot and got some metal caulk sealer and a gun and went to town.
11-24-2005, 07:19 PM
#7
Originally Posted by TApimp
You cut the drivers side a little to much, I did the exact same thing, but since your making your own tubs its not a big deal
I welded mine every 4 inches, one inch weld. then i went to home depot and got some metal caulk sealer and a gun and went to town.
I welded mine every 4 inches, one inch weld. then i went to home depot and got some metal caulk sealer and a gun and went to town.
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11-24-2005, 10:28 PM
#8
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TAPimp what part should I be looking at that is cut too far on the drivers side? And what part on the pass rear? ****, looks like a good job to me, but I will need as much insight as possible before I start on mine, hopefully this summer.
11-26-2005, 08:10 AM
#16
Originally Posted by csjta2
What did you cut with?
I used sheetmetal shears and a die grinder with a wafer wheel.
Man that drivers side is gonna be a bitch.
You will cuss many more much times fitting that side.
For you guys thinking about doing this, wear a cheap respirator. That seam sealer that GM uses is some potent stuff. It burned my eyes and sinus while doing this job....just a heads up. Maybe I am a sissy....but man I was messed up for days at a time after working on the car.
David
11-26-2005, 09:55 AM
#17
For those who have minitubbed cars. How many inches did you narrow the rearend and what backspacing are you all using? I'm thinking 2.5" or 3" max on each side and running a 5" or 5.5" bs. I just really wanted a bigger lip on the new wheels I'm getting and to have the wheel tuck under the fenderwell a bit more.
11-26-2005, 09:58 AM
#18
Tom, David or TApimp have any of you guys thought about switching to the Wolfe adjustable spring perch in the rear to get a little more clearance and of course have the adjustability factor?
With the current wheels back on the car I see 2.5" to 3" of clearance before the tire rubs the spring or rubber isolator around it.
With the current wheels back on the car I see 2.5" to 3" of clearance before the tire rubs the spring or rubber isolator around it.
11-26-2005, 10:44 AM
#19
I narrowed my rear end 3" per side. I have the Wolfe adjustable spring perches with a 2.5" X 10" X 150 spring. The tire will come into contact with the LCA long before it ever touches the spring. Even with stock springs the tire would contact the LCA before it contacts the spring. Even with offset bushing LCA's the tire would contact the LCA before it contacts the spring.
Has anyone moved the LCA's over to the inside say 2" or so? Lets say to the next opening over? I'll take pics and show you what I mean.
Later
Has anyone moved the LCA's over to the inside say 2" or so? Lets say to the next opening over? I'll take pics and show you what I mean.
Later