Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

I have ET Performance LS6 heads, with 2.055 valves. I have been recently told my heads are the reason i am making so low power. 410rwhp 380rwtq with the setup in my sig. Here is the dyno sheet. What do you all think? I have heard of another person swapping out stock heads with almost my same setup (same cam and all) for the same heads and gaining only 11rwhp.

Cary@Perf-Induction

iTrader: (1)

Shawn,

from what I remember from your last post, your engine was low on compression. I've seen results first hand between, compression and cam selection. I also remember your first time around, not having the cam in right, and I also remember replacing all the valves. If you feel that your heads are the problem still, I would be glad to go back over your heads with a fine tooth comb. How does the car perform?? are you chasing a dyno number, or is the car a slug? I have a lot of feedback on our product. I have seen huge dyno numbers with the same exact heads you have, and I have seen low dyno numbers. I have not seen equal comparisons yet between the dyno and the race track. First of all I feel your camshaft is not right and I think you do not have enough compression for that camshaft. Just my best opinion. We do stand behind our product, so if you feel that your heads are not right I will be glad to work with you to solve your problem.

thanks,
cary

LASTLS1

iTrader: (7)

Your a/f looks all over the place and RICH! What lind of timing and compression?

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

Timing was between 28-30 degrees. Not sure about the compression. Stock shortblock. ET heads, not milled.

Here's the full setup.

Tune from Chuck @ HPE
ET 2.055 CNC'd LS6 heads(234cc, 309cfm on intake)
HPE-S cam (238/242 .608/.612 115lsa)
Kooks 1 7/8" stainless steel headers
Kooks 3" stianless steel X pipe
Borla stainless steel straight pipes
Sweet Thunder chambered stainless steel mufflers
Built M12 transmission from Rodney at RPM, carbon/kevlar synchros, micro polished internals, hardened output shaft, and any other options he had.
Spec 3 clutch
Billet steel flywheel
Vararam Intake
DTE transmission brace
Kirban short shifter
Talyor 8mm wires
Ported Throttle Body
17x9.5 C6 front rims with 275/40-17 Nitto 555 Streets
18x10.5 C6 rear rims with 305/35-18 Nitto 555r drag radials @17psi

So you replaced the valves in the 2.055 heads? We are planning on redynoing here shortly and I might be getting a dyno tune from Cartek. What heads would you reccomend for my setup or do you think i woul dbe better off with a cam swap?

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

You've got some big parts for a stock bottom end. I doubt the problem lies in the heads since ET puts out one of the best products out there. The parts you have would be better suited under a 383+ ci motor.

aux_fast_cam

This head/cam setup sounds better suited for bigger cubic inch motor. If you still want to run what you got, I would put in a smaller cam. around 22? duration. You're not using the capability of the heads but ..... The motor needs to be leaned out also, I agree. I bet on a 100 shot it would feel nice though and get rid of that bottom end. It will work then!!!

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like you exhaust is too big, not much compression (10.5 range) and the fuel on the tune looks like crap. I bet playing with that tune I could make your car run faster. I agree the parts selection looks like something for a 383 or 408. It's all about total combination combined with tuning.

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

I have seen a cam only Z06(228 single pattern on a 112) put down 416 but it was tuned to an inch of its life. I think if all else fails I would swap cams to something a little smaller with a little more overlap- an F13 maybe.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Wow, just looking at your parts I have to ask why?

Why such a big cam? Unless your running some steep *** gears not needed.

Why such large primary headers unless your a stroker, or a stock cube running big nitrous?

Why havent you performed a compression test? As soon as you id a problem, and it seems to be a lack of power first thing you want to do it cover the questions that'll be asked. e.g. Have you done a compression test? Whats the AFR (which yours is Wayy rich for an NA car, that would suggest tuner issues there). Timing, which you have since covered. And I imagine a gammit of others waiting.

I'm not baggin you man, just been down that road, the frustration and all. Be prepared and do your legwork. You havent answered whether your chasing the dyno or if the track says BS also.
I recommend getting the AFR tuned correctly first. Then check the basics, plugs, and compression test etc. Unless you want to spray go with a smaller more efficient cam, which you and I could have the same duration and lift, but if the events are different one will produce and the other may flop.

GL,

Charlie

Frans96SS

iTrader: (15)

the tune has since been changed to lean it out alittle more.... the car has been 11.8 at 120 witha horrible 60 foot time of 2.0.....and he was planning on spraying thats why i chose the parts i did..... and always was talking about a 408......so i picked heads and cam according.....

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Fran, sounds like you had the right idea, buy the parts once for the future to come stuff, but he has to know what works strong on a 408 may not be so hot on the small cuber. What weight is this car? for ref I run 11.79 @ 113 w/ 3400lbs A4 (now A3 and havent run it yet) stock geared. Sounds like his mph is more than enough needed, but who knows.

Frans96SS

iTrader: (15)

yeah hes 18 and i know he doesnt have a ton of money so i wanted to save him some in the future....with a 408 his car would fly....... its a stock zo6 so whatever that weighs......

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

Wow 18 and has a zo6. How can you afford a zo6 and not be able to buy a motor?

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

I say tune the car out a little better and be happy with 120+ trap speeds. The car is no slouch and the heads seem to be doing great. Not to mention , its got to sound awsome

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

Fran has been doing all the work to my car by the way. I did speak of a 408 and nitrous as well, but still i expected higher numbers. Like i said we're going to redyno and check for knock once the transmission is finished. I cant afford a motor becuase i just spent $8400 on heads and cam and supporting mods, plus another $3200 on a transmission. That's alot to pay for plus the car. Car weighs 3280 with me in it and a ful tank of gas. Fran ran the car at the track, weighs a little more than i.

How good would my setup be for say a supercharger? I know it would kill the bottom end eventually but i was thinking rather than swapping out heads or a cam, i would just buy a used supercharger or maybe nitrous until the bottom end goes then buy a 408.

66deuce

iTrader: (1)

assuming everything checks out,if it was me i would switch to 1 3/4 headers and a smaller cam.like was posted earlier,the cam and headers are more suited for a bigger motor.these two changes alone will give you more average power,which means a lot more than just peak numbers.

Z06 Steve

iTrader: (8)

its all in the combo.that cam is all wrong.what cc are the combustion chambers?shoot for 11:1 and go with a cartek 2x or 3x cam.1 7/8 headers are overkill.or follow A&A corvettes recipe he made some crazy power with the et heads.

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

Let it be noted that these aren't the 11 degree heads either. As far as remedying the problem with a blower or nitrous, I would rather the blower since it would remedy the problem all the time instead of just when the bottle is on. Instead of wasting money on either, I'd just enjoy what you have and save for a budget 408/402.

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

Was planning on the 408 but i think i might go SC for now would be cheaper and would eventually give me a reason to get a 408.

turbo'd stang

There is nothing wrong with that cam. I have one in a stock headed car, auto. Out of the box it put down 407rwhp. I haven't had time to get it back on the dyno, but the cam makes good power and drives around town fine.

You have something going on....I would look at the mechanical end of things, IMO, your tune can't be 60-70rwhp off.