My Spec 3 Took A Crap! Opinions Please
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My Spec 3 Took A Crap! Opinions Please
I bought a Spec 3 clutch back in July with a new flywheel. I broke it in up to around 550 city miles. I have 390 rwhp and 380 tq. I took the car to the track probably a total of 6-7 times with the new clutch. 4 of the times I was feathering the clutch but not really bad. The other 3 times I have been dropping the clutch between 4-5k. Now 3,000 miles later it takes a ****! Now I know that they are supposed to handle a hell of a lot more horsepower than I have. Do you guys think it could be a factorl lemon? Or am I doing something wrong? I just dont want to spend a fortune on clutches. Please give me your opinions good or bad. No smartass or worthless comments please.
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Originally Posted by mattslightning
welcome to the wonderful world of spec throw it in the trash and buy a reputable clutch
#6
hello letsndy, I was browsing this site and saw your tread so I registered to say, sorry about your spec 3 clutch. By the way I got my trans down out of my gto and yep I got a brand new spec 3 clutch kit. So now I'm not sure about putting it in. I just wanted to ask if u put a spacer like what comes with the kit (the kit came with the clutch plate pressure plate TO bearing pilot bearing and a spacer) behind the slave sylinder. If u didn't that may have ben the problem and if u did I guess I have a problem. Also this is the first time I,ve done a hydraulic clutch install if u have any tips I would like to hear them thanks
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Originally Posted by 02SOMWS6
was it a normal spec 3 or was it a 3I or what ever letter they are up to. My 3I is still alive and kicking
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Originally Posted by Brian L
hello letsndy, I was browsing this site and saw your tread so I registered to say, sorry about your spec 3 clutch. By the way I got my trans down out of my gto and yep I got a brand new spec 3 clutch kit. So now I'm not sure about putting it in. I just wanted to ask if u put a spacer like what comes with the kit (the kit came with the clutch plate pressure plate TO bearing pilot bearing and a spacer) behind the slave sylinder. If u didn't that may have ben the problem and if u did I guess I have a problem. Also this is the first time I,ve done a hydraulic clutch install if u have any tips I would like to hear them thanks
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The upgraded clutch pack is the "F"package.
http://www.lmperformance.com/c/14/1.html
Here are the different upgrades for the clutch.
Too bad ********* inc. didn't tell you about the upgrades!
http://www.lmperformance.com/c/14/1.html
Here are the different upgrades for the clutch.
Too bad ********* inc. didn't tell you about the upgrades!
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Originally Posted by ramairstyle00
people just need to quit buying the stage 3 and get the stage 4. there is a BUNCH of us running them without a single problem
how is it?
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How badly was the clutch feathered when you feathered it? Did you smell it start to burn off? If so it might have taken off more than you know, while I haven't used a spec 3 or any upgraded clutch the clutch i used was feathered slightly but once it entered the powerband, though my foot was entirely off the clutch it slipped horribly, but that may not be the case. If you smelt material burning it might have been taking off more than you could have estimated, especially in a racing scenario.
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Spec = junk, get a real clutch or go auto.
After welding several stage 4F's to my flywheel and having a pressure plate on a stage 5 die I gave up and put a th400 in the car. Spec 3 in my supra wouldn't even hold 450 rwhp.
Spec sux.
And I barely ever ran the car at the track so it's not like they were really abused.
After welding several stage 4F's to my flywheel and having a pressure plate on a stage 5 die I gave up and put a th400 in the car. Spec 3 in my supra wouldn't even hold 450 rwhp.
Spec sux.
And I barely ever ran the car at the track so it's not like they were really abused.
#16
I believe its McLeod that makes a really nice setup.....of course its about 1200 i want to say someone feel free to correct me if im wrong....but since you have to get another one anyway....might as well spend the extra money and get one that holds....I want to say its the Street twin...
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I got 6k miles and about 20 passes out of the spec before it welded itself to the flywheel. Went with a Textralia, and the thing is 10x the joy to drive the chatter-your-teeth-out Spec ever was. 2k miles, ~15 passes and no issues yet, with driveability that matches the stocker.
#18
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idk why people have such bad problems with the specs
i have the 3I with there billet steel flywheel and that thing holds great(pullin the wheels with a 5500 launch) and i have ZERO chatter on the street and drives totaly like stock and light pedel
i recomend the spec to people i think alot of problems are in the install and the hydrolics with bleeding problems and shiming problems
i use the thin gasket not the metal one
i have the 3I with there billet steel flywheel and that thing holds great(pullin the wheels with a 5500 launch) and i have ZERO chatter on the street and drives totaly like stock and light pedel
i recomend the spec to people i think alot of problems are in the install and the hydrolics with bleeding problems and shiming problems
i use the thin gasket not the metal one
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I have a spec III and aluminum flywheel with over 20k miles. Still grabs hard and i beat on the clutch everyday. No track times though. Probably going to get the textralia next time to give it a try, great feedback.
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Originally Posted by 350-Z28
How badly was the clutch feathered when you feathered it? Did you smell it start to burn off? If so it might have taken off more than you know, while I haven't used a spec 3 or any upgraded clutch the clutch i used was feathered slightly but once it entered the powerband, though my foot was entirely off the clutch it slipped horribly, but that may not be the case. If you smelt material burning it might have been taking off more than you could have estimated, especially in a racing scenario.