Has Anyone heard of/used these wheels?
#1
Sweet Cheeks
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Has Anyone heard of/used these wheels?
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They look pretty sharp and I've heard they're supposedly LIGHTER than Bogarts, which I'm very skeptical about. Any word?
Strength, weights?
I'm considering either Bogart Aluma Lites all around, Weld Aluma Stars up front and a Bogart rear, and these.
Thanks.
They look pretty sharp and I've heard they're supposedly LIGHTER than Bogarts, which I'm very skeptical about. Any word?
Strength, weights?
I'm considering either Bogart Aluma Lites all around, Weld Aluma Stars up front and a Bogart rear, and these.
Thanks.
#4
Sweet Cheeks
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
They are lighter AND stronger than the Bogarts. I have them on a couple of Outlaw 10.5 cars and they are killer. They look really crazy with the Beadlocks on them.
So would you say that these would be stronger for the street than Bogarts too? (Meaning if I can drive Bogarts on the street, I can drive these)
Thanks.
#5
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
They are lighter AND stronger than the Bogarts. I have them on a couple of Outlaw 10.5 cars and they are killer. They look really crazy with the Beadlocks on them.
so lighter stronger and CHEAPER.......
Maybe i will give them a call then................
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#8
Sweet Cheeks
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Originally Posted by 4bangermustang
they don't seem a whole lot cheaper then bogarts....
Apples to apples.
#13
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Those wheels ARE NICE, a buddy has them on his 8 second 81 Z28(15x10). They will make ANY offset you want for $20 more per wheel..these wheels are the ****! I love them. I will have a set when my car comes off the street. I got Convo Pro's for the street, they are more durable(heavier)...hell I may go on and get a set.....the more I think about it.
David
David
#14
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this pic has been whored out like crazy but whatever
heres another
and action shot
i love them. definately a "make it fit" type of deal though.
couple first hand things. they are lighter than the bogarts designed for mustangs and fbodys size for size. i have handled multiple sets so im not basing this off opinion. i remember correctly the shipping weight for all four of my wheels was 34-36#'s. 7-8 fronts and roughly 10# rears. the outer and inner barrels are not welded together, they are bolted to the face and sealed with silicone. i definately wouldnt put a ton of street miles on these. i will drive/cruise/streetrace on mine but im incredibly **** about how i drive on them. quality is amazing. each wheel was 100% perfectly round and the craftsmanship is flawless
heres another
and action shot
i love them. definately a "make it fit" type of deal though.
couple first hand things. they are lighter than the bogarts designed for mustangs and fbodys size for size. i have handled multiple sets so im not basing this off opinion. i remember correctly the shipping weight for all four of my wheels was 34-36#'s. 7-8 fronts and roughly 10# rears. the outer and inner barrels are not welded together, they are bolted to the face and sealed with silicone. i definately wouldnt put a ton of street miles on these. i will drive/cruise/streetrace on mine but im incredibly **** about how i drive on them. quality is amazing. each wheel was 100% perfectly round and the craftsmanship is flawless
Last edited by Tally TransAm; 12-10-2005 at 06:07 PM.
#15
Originally Posted by MADMAN
They are lighter AND stronger than the Bogarts. I have them on a couple of Outlaw 10.5 cars and they are killer. They look really crazy with the Beadlocks on them.
Why do I state this? High-stress points will be seen on the very thin spokes near the wheel shell...been there, done that, they crack easy, you won't see ours that thin in our those areas for a reason. Rich Bogart DID at one time have thin spokes as this design…I just had this asked the other day during a phone conversation with a customer asking us to make him a set with thinner spokes.
Another consideration, how the weight is distributed?? Sheer weight is not the only factor in a design. P2 wheels differ then P1 wheels for example due to the design of the center section as well as the shells.
Our wheels are strong and I believe the lightest...not only from sheer weight but looking from a polar moment of inertia perspective (rotational losses). When we are talking weights...there are small differences between welds high-end, our P2 designs and the holeshots. In today's world cottage industries can pop up and make lighter wheels? Certainly, but are they structurally sound? That is only to be determined from testing.
The holeshot centers seem to be large in diameter. By looking at the picture possibly 12 inch centers (i'm taking guess on the diameter by looking at the picture)...This would be larger then our P2 wheels which means by nature, ours actually have more mass directed towards the center making the wheel have less inertial losses (even though the spoke are thinner near the top on that wheel). There is a structural outer ring where the bolts attach that is quite heavy.
The differences in weight are small enough to consider any of the wheels as a choice. Bogart, Weld, Holeshot, and the new Mickey Thompson's. Some additional considerations to ponder over are:
1) A major consideration is how the wheel is actually designed, materials used how is it treated? Working material during forming welding etc changes the interstitial properties of the material…how is this corrected??
2) How durable is the product?
3) What type of testing and continued testing is performed?
4) How is the company willing to back up their products and services?
If you are unsure about any of these areas…stick to mainstream companies such as weld racing as well as our Bogart products. Products that have been around for years and PROVEN tested in the market place. Bogart has an outstanding guarantee, a proven track record and do perform the above procedures to many of the products.
We can get some of our wheels down to ~6.75 lbs...Taking anything more we feel is dangerous and not safe for continued stress loading. There is only so much you can take out of a wheel and keep it structurally sound…even after solution treating to bring the material back to a stronger state…or other means.
As the manufacture suggests, I would never ever consider using these holeshot wheels on the street due to the history that has been attempted with previous Bogart designs either discontinued or altered.
Last edited by steve10; 12-10-2005 at 07:10 PM.
#18
Originally Posted by Dear John
Steve's my friend.
Fernando
Fernando
I have a feeling my comments will be opening a can of worms...lol
Comments made are not to disrespect any one person or their choice in wheels. Each has their own opinions.
#19
Here's one more for you why with a very high-degree of certainty our wheel are more durable and stronger
...even our bolted design P2's are welded where outer and inner shells intersect (where the two shells join). Why is this important? Well, the load from the tire-beads creates a high-stress load on the bolts and surrounding surface which attach the center to the shells. Welding the two shells together at this point relieves stress and removes some of the dangers of cracking near the structural bolts seen on the wheels.
Another function of the weld provides additional security of creating a solid rim shell to prevent the problem of common 3 piece wheels leaking! Our wheels are guaranteed leak free!! Other manufactures use a sealer to prevent leaking but this is not permanent, we not only weld the halves we also seal them.
Unless Holeshot has changed their design, they were producing 3 piece wheels without welding a critical area.
Maybe I've enlightened a few folks to our wheel designs...once again, my comments are NOT to tell you to stay away from Holeshots or they are terrible wheels. If they meet your design intent, then they are perfect for your application!
...even our bolted design P2's are welded where outer and inner shells intersect (where the two shells join). Why is this important? Well, the load from the tire-beads creates a high-stress load on the bolts and surrounding surface which attach the center to the shells. Welding the two shells together at this point relieves stress and removes some of the dangers of cracking near the structural bolts seen on the wheels.
Another function of the weld provides additional security of creating a solid rim shell to prevent the problem of common 3 piece wheels leaking! Our wheels are guaranteed leak free!! Other manufactures use a sealer to prevent leaking but this is not permanent, we not only weld the halves we also seal them.
Unless Holeshot has changed their design, they were producing 3 piece wheels without welding a critical area.
Maybe I've enlightened a few folks to our wheel designs...once again, my comments are NOT to tell you to stay away from Holeshots or they are terrible wheels. If they meet your design intent, then they are perfect for your application!
#20
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (17)
without actual dimensions and measurements being posted i will say based on the the face designs, the bogarts in general have more weight distributed towards the outer areas than the holeshots which will contribute to a higher rotation mass. however in dealing with 4 sets of bogarts and 2 sets of holeshots i will say the the material used in the barrel is thinner in the bogarts than in the holeshots in every case. i would honestly have to say that the rotational mass between them is almost negligable.
as for the barrels being welded, for race/play wheels i would prefer to have mine the way they are. one, every slick i have owned has leaked very small amounts of air through the sidewalls, the ones i own now do and no air leaks from the wheels dispite 3 months of daily driving and 10 months of racing or cruising/street racing 2-3 times a month since. two being bolted and siliconed significantly reduces the cost of repairing a damaged portion of the wheel or changing the dimension of the wheels by changing the inner or outer barrels.
either way both are very nice wheels
as for the barrels being welded, for race/play wheels i would prefer to have mine the way they are. one, every slick i have owned has leaked very small amounts of air through the sidewalls, the ones i own now do and no air leaks from the wheels dispite 3 months of daily driving and 10 months of racing or cruising/street racing 2-3 times a month since. two being bolted and siliconed significantly reduces the cost of repairing a damaged portion of the wheel or changing the dimension of the wheels by changing the inner or outer barrels.
either way both are very nice wheels