SOM_of_a_Beach

My car always runs at 200-210 degrees (which is totally too hot to begin with, but thats another issue) and the other night it got really hot (like almost redlined) and noticed the fuse (40 amp) was blown. So i moved the 50 amp fuse from the abs slot to the fan fuse slot and made it to an auto part it blew the 50 too. Got some fuses and parked her at home.

Well after removing the fan and checking the wires from the fan to the little fuse box, it seems that the wires (+/-) fused together. So I pulled em out and cut away the fused portion. Before I go thru the hassle of putting my fan back in and stuff I will probably purchase a new fan, drop in my tubular suspension and change the tensioner bolt i happen to brake when I tightened it last time.

My car makes 600rwhp, has a d1sc, and there was no space for dual fans so the shop had placed a single 16 inch puller fan. I am looking into getting a spal/be cool 16 fan and noticed that there are like multiple choices for 16" fans. So I am kinda lost.

Whats the difference? Straight / curved?


ps. thanks for your help
crystal

_____________________
Here's jegs descriptions:

16'' Straight Blade Puller Fan
134-75001 16'' Straight Blade Puller Fan
Black
2360 CFM @ 21.6 amps
$191.99

134-75033 16'' Straight Blade Puller Fan
Chrome
2360 CFM @ 21.6 amps
$349.99 Add to cart

134-75048 16'' Straight Blade Puller Fan
Billet Aluminum Shroud and Fan Motor Cover
Polished
2360 CFM @ 21.6 amps
$579.99

134-95001 16'' Straight Blade Puller Fan Module Assembly
Black
2360 CFM @ 21.6 amps
Includes Wiring Kit and Mounting Brackets
$365.99 Add to cart

Curved Blade Puller Fan
134-75042 16'' Curved Blade Puller Fan
Black
2070 CFM @ 17.4 amps
$199.99 Add to cart

134-75068 16'' Curved Blade Puller Fan
Black
3140 CFM @ 27.0 amps
.420hp Motor
$311

V8_DSM_V8again

With the same size motor straight = more CFM airflow...

Curved are a bit quieter...

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

I run the the SPAL

PULL
16" Curved Blade
Extreme Performance Fan
12 Volt
Part Number: 30102113

Previous Part Number(s): 30100845

Description: VA18 - AP70/LL/F - 59A

Retail Price: $299.95

dlandsvZ28

Get a SPAL 16inch extreme (3000 cfm) or Flexalite(3300 cfm) to replace the less than adequate ATI 16 inch (cfm unknown).

Do a search...there are lots of opinions as to whether the ATI fan is adequate or not. Some say it is others not.

IMO the radiator is less than adequate for a stock LS1 in hot climates (Texas) with AC on. Take away one of the 12 inch fans and replace it with a 16 inch which is probably less than the output of the stock 12 inches and it's very likely you will get overheating problems.

The ATI blowoff valve doesn't vent to the atmosphere either, so at idle the air recycles and heats up IAT even more while idling. The hotter the IAT the hotter the motor runs and leans out.

So what to do.

Some say to replace the ATI 16 with dual fans, however I was never able to figure out to get both to fit with the charger on the driver's side.

So I upgraded to the Spal 16 inch extreme. I also added a Spal 9 inch on the drivers side but high enough so I have a least an inch of clearance between it and the charger.

Here's a pic of the install (IMO looks stock).

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dlands...ec.jpg&.src=ph

However, my temps still bump to 210 if I idle the car with the AC when it gets hot (around a 100 in Kansas).

What I found is that it is the AC cooler that dumps all of its superheated output air directly into the input path of the radiator so the radiator get superheated air from the getgo with the AC on. I'm thinking about putting a 10 inch puller fan on the AC radiator or second choice is to get a fan mounted transmission cooler (I have an A4 with a high stall...more heat).

I understand a fan mounted tranny cooler will drop the temps at least 10-20 degrees and in addition getting it out of the pathway of the AC radiator. (Tranny cooler first, then AC cooler, and finally the radiator...easy to see why the air is hot once it gets pulled into the radiator).

So what are your options?

Get a bigger radiator along with the 16 inch Extreme (it's top of the line and used in Nascar cars) or do some of what I have done or try to mount dual fans as some have done. Vent the blowoff to atmospere using a K&N air filter (2 3/4 inch if I recall).

Lastly, the local ATI shop states that most fbodies that overheat on his installs is because the bottom rows of the radiator are filled with dirt and debris limiting the capacity of the radiator to less than 100 percent. So make sure its super clean inside and out.

As for why your wires got hot and fused. It might be an improper install. The wires should have been wired directly into the stock wires.

Finally make sure the fan is pulling rather than pushing. Some installers have wired the fan backwards so it is pushing rather than pulling. You can tell easily by holding your hand behind the radiator. If you feel air then it's pulling.

If you get the Extreme, be prepared to clean your motor frequently. It pulls some air bigtime and really blows up a dust storm on dusty streets.

Good luck and HTH.

V8_DSM_V8again

http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/automat.../0845-2113.pdf

Extreme fan sheet...

I dont know if I would run that on a DD... They really crank up the motor on that assuming race use life span not daily driver.. Not a sealed motor... etc..

Curved 16" High performance "long life" fan
http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/automat.../2048-2049.pdf

Straight 16" High performance "long life"
http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/automat.../2036-2047.pdf

I just think the motors in these two will last longer...

I am looking at fans for a 4WD so I have been looking at more than CFM.. Like if they can be wailed on really hard.

SOM_of_a_Beach

I am currently looking at the extreme 16". I will probably clean the radiator too. My friend is under the impression dual 11 inch fans will fit, he may have a spare at a friends house. So I will pop in the dual 11" fans from spal and if they fit, I am told the dual fans are better. If they dont fit I will go with the single 16".

Cool rig with the 9 inch fan. I am guessing all i would need is a dremel tool and drill to make the holes. Sounds like a cool idea. (get it..cool? )

Welp, I will keep you guys posted.

Thanks for all of your help,

Crystal

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

The extreme is an direct replacement for the ATI fan. With the SLP radiator. My temps stay around 200

SOM_of_a_Beach

when u say direct fit, are u reffering to the dual 11 inch fans or the 16? I know the single 16 inch fan is a direct fit.

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

16" Extreme

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

ive tried several electric fans, one i found that worked the best is the flex-a-lite black magic one single 15" w/ shroud. It definately made a difference over the dozen other ones i tried.

all those perma-cool, Mr. Gasket, and universal cheap ones never worked worth crap, they just dont have the power to move the air. Alot tha are made for "race" cars work ok, but not for street use.

laz

iTrader: (3)

Dual fans will work better than a single, all the modules they sell for hi hp cars have a custom shroud to make the air flow use the whole radiator ,the only reason not to use dual fans is if they dont fit . Why only use one 16 inch fan when you have 24 inch core radiator ? I have a a 1000 hp buick with a large front mount with dual spal 11s and the temp on a hot day will not go over 165 even after a pass i had a single and it ran 200+ on the return road and this is thru a thicker 2 row radiator .