How much play on internal torsen gearing
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How much play on internal torsen gearing
As the title states, how much play are the internal gears on a torsen suppose to have? I would imagine pretty tight but.....
The other night I made a hard U-turn to the left and started to hear popping coming from the rear. Almost sounded like teeth were jumping, this doesn't happen on hard right hand turns.
I just put some 4.10's and haven't actually been easy on them, running Nittos as well. I've got well over 2k miles on the gears. I put her up on stands this morning to see what it could be. All the teeth are there but haven't had a chance to check gear pattern, was textbook perfect when I set them up, as well as backlash, also set at .006 at initial setup and zero lateral endplay.
The backlash seems to be fine although again I haven't actually checked it with a dial indicator but the one thing that I did notice was the play between the carrier and the axles when I turned the wheel. I can physically see wear and some chips on the teeth of the worm gears inside the carrier, and there is A LOT of play. I'm gonna venture to say as much as 1 to 2 hundred thou. I can see the gears shifting around inside the carrier when I rotate the wheels back and forth. I would imagine they aren't suppose to do that.
I have a funny feeling it's on its way out just need someone to confirm it.
Are the diffs rebuildable?
Input from personal experience would be greatly appreciated.
Frank
The other night I made a hard U-turn to the left and started to hear popping coming from the rear. Almost sounded like teeth were jumping, this doesn't happen on hard right hand turns.
I just put some 4.10's and haven't actually been easy on them, running Nittos as well. I've got well over 2k miles on the gears. I put her up on stands this morning to see what it could be. All the teeth are there but haven't had a chance to check gear pattern, was textbook perfect when I set them up, as well as backlash, also set at .006 at initial setup and zero lateral endplay.
The backlash seems to be fine although again I haven't actually checked it with a dial indicator but the one thing that I did notice was the play between the carrier and the axles when I turned the wheel. I can physically see wear and some chips on the teeth of the worm gears inside the carrier, and there is A LOT of play. I'm gonna venture to say as much as 1 to 2 hundred thou. I can see the gears shifting around inside the carrier when I rotate the wheels back and forth. I would imagine they aren't suppose to do that.
I have a funny feeling it's on its way out just need someone to confirm it.
Are the diffs rebuildable?
Input from personal experience would be greatly appreciated.
Frank
Last edited by sscam68; 12-18-2005 at 11:22 AM.
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Popping noises in the rear are never a good sign. I would imagine it's on it's way out. Did you have a pretty good amount of material on the cover magnet when you took it off? I know they are rebuildable, but it would probably be less expensive to just buy a used/new one than to get all the tools and rebuild kit to rebuild the carrier.
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Originally Posted by Krab
Popping noises in the rear are never a good sign. I would imagine it's on it's way out. Did you have a pretty good amount of material on the cover magnet when you took it off? I know they are rebuildable, but it would probably be less expensive to just buy a used/new one than to get all the tools and rebuild kit to rebuild the carrier.
I guess I'll start calling around and see what its going to cost to have someone rebuild it, or as you suggested just buy a new one.
At this point I don't care to put any money into the 10 bolt anymore. It's pretty much pointless especially considering what I have in store for the future.
FWIW since I put the gears in I have gotten some wheel hop, especially when power shifting. I think that has played a part in the demise of the carrier. I've also got some 50-60 passes on slicks at the track dumping at 6+K (4.10's haven't seen any track time, didn't have chance before the track closed ).
Thanks for your input, anyone else?
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Originally Posted by sscam68
I've also got some 50-60 passes on slicks at the track dumping at 6+K (4.10's haven't seen any track time, didn't have chance before the track closed ).
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Well the verdict is in. Its definitely the carrier. I found small chunks of metal at the bottom of the housing. The pic of the gears is really blurry, it was getting dark, but you can kinda see where the gear teeth have been worn away. The ring and pinion look really good, nothing wrong with them other than the backlash being loosened up. But thats easily fixable.
I think what happened is when the material from the pitted bearings got lose the debris floated through the teeth and just worked on them and wore them thin. With the wheel hop caused from the gears the thin teeth just broke off.
I also measured the play on the internal carrier gears and I was getting readings of ~25 thou. .
Pics have been attached.
I think what happened is when the material from the pitted bearings got lose the debris floated through the teeth and just worked on them and wore them thin. With the wheel hop caused from the gears the thin teeth just broke off.
I also measured the play on the internal carrier gears and I was getting readings of ~25 thou. .
Pics have been attached.
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Damn, I am currently experienceing the same sound when only turning left. Also it is only when I have the clutch pushed in. If I have a load on it; it doesnt make the sound. Let me know what you do with the situation and WHAT IT COSTS!
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Originally Posted by V8_DSM_V8again
I'd replace it with a detroit trutrac.. We beat the fn shizzle out of those in 4x4 trucks and they stay in one piece..
Same as the torsen though right? No clutches, just gears.
#10
http://www.tractech.com/docs/DetroitTruetrac04.pdf
Exploded view here.
Its built a little beefier than a tosen.. Its tourque bias is'nt as high.. A higher number will put more tq to the 1 wheel with more grip before it kicks into limit slip mode.. Which is almost locker like but a smoother engagement.
http://www.torsen.com/products/T-2.htm
The T-2 is the model that GM axles get.. Their is also a T-2 race master... Its on that site too...
I have seen the short end of the side gear teeth strip on a wheeling rig...
Exploded view here.
Its built a little beefier than a tosen.. Its tourque bias is'nt as high.. A higher number will put more tq to the 1 wheel with more grip before it kicks into limit slip mode.. Which is almost locker like but a smoother engagement.
http://www.torsen.com/products/T-2.htm
The T-2 is the model that GM axles get.. Their is also a T-2 race master... Its on that site too...
I have seen the short end of the side gear teeth strip on a wheeling rig...
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Originally Posted by V8_DSM_V8again
http://www.tractech.com/docs/DetroitTruetrac04.pdf
Exploded view here.
Its built a little beefier than a tosen.. Its tourque bias is'nt as high.. A higher number will put more tq to the 1 wheel with more grip before it kicks into limit slip mode.. Which is almost locker like but a smoother engagement.
http://www.torsen.com/products/T-2.htm
The T-2 is the model that GM axles get.. Their is also a T-2 race master... Its on that site too...
I have seen the short end of the side gear teeth strip on a wheeling rig...
Exploded view here.
Its built a little beefier than a tosen.. Its tourque bias is'nt as high.. A higher number will put more tq to the 1 wheel with more grip before it kicks into limit slip mode.. Which is almost locker like but a smoother engagement.
http://www.torsen.com/products/T-2.htm
The T-2 is the model that GM axles get.. Their is also a T-2 race master... Its on that site too...
I have seen the short end of the side gear teeth strip on a wheeling rig...
Last edited by dailydriver; 12-26-2005 at 03:15 PM.