Gears & Axles Driveshafts | Rearends | Differentials | Gears | 12 Bolt | 9 Inch | Dana

How many daily driven 9" cars

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-03-2006, 05:45 PM
  #1  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
KurtRardin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Montgomery, AL
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default How many daily driven 9" cars

What kind of luck does everyone have with their Moser 9" with 4 channel ABS? Are they hard to install? Are there any nightmares? Does the ABS setup work well enough that you cant tell its any different than stock? Does the ASR still work like it did?
It sounds like you dont need to shorten the drive shaft, and there is no modification to the car at all. Is it a true bolt in? I guess for $2400 it ought to fit in extremely easy and work exactly like the 10 bolt did. How long does the job take usually (from jacking the car up and yanking the 10 out to letting it back down 9inched)?

What spline axles should i get? If 35 spline axles are free then why not get them? Do the brakes still work with 35 spline?

Thanks
Old 01-03-2006, 06:07 PM
  #2  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
BULLET99Z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Cedar Rapids,IA
Posts: 475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I would think everything should work fine, the 9'' is the strongest out thereIMO, unless you went to something huge like a 14bolt or dana 60
Old 01-03-2006, 06:11 PM
  #3  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
 
SPEEDYws6's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Longview, TX
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I used to DD my car with a 9" and a detroit locker. But it depends on how you get it set up, that will be the deciding factor of how liveable it is. Everybody that rides in my car hates the locker, but it doesn't bother me at all. But now I would have gone with a spool and more gear since I don't daily drive it anymore. Mine was a direct bolt up other than having to grind a little bit off my random tech torque arm to get it to bolt up, and I had to clearance the body a pretty good amount to keep the torque arm bracket from hitting. 33 spline will be fine, there are plenty of fast m6 cars running 33's. Just research some more, I know you have but do some more, there are a few things I would like to change now knowing what I know now. If I had searched just a little more it would have saved me time and money.
Old 01-03-2006, 06:41 PM
  #4  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
KurtRardin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Montgomery, AL
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

What else do you recomend? Who else makes a nice bolt-in 9" for less than $2400? Exactly how loud is the locker? I've got a LM exhaust, is it loud enough to hear over that?
Old 01-03-2006, 07:25 PM
  #5  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
 
xaon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Tomball, TX
Posts: 1,737
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I DD my moser 9" w/posi for over 2 years... then DD it with a spool for another 6 months. Everything worked perfectly with both setups.
Old 01-03-2006, 08:20 PM
  #6  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
KurtRardin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Montgomery, AL
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

So it sounds like these Moser 9"s are great. Now its just a matter of deciding weather or not to drop the $ on one of these things. You know, my car (98 M6) only has a lid, free mods, and a LM system, and already the rear is making noise. I guess if i am going to keep the thing then i might as well get it. If i go to sell the car can i almost get what i paid for the rear ontop of the value of the car?
Old 01-03-2006, 08:27 PM
  #7  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
KurtRardin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Montgomery, AL
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

This all started when i put my ZR1 Wheels on (275 all around), and instantly the rear end started making noise. At first it was quieter, a little louder than tire noise, and so i just thought "wow, these are loud tires." One road trip later (700 miles) its singing and theres metal in the fluid. What the heck? Strange coincidince or could a simple wheel change muck up my 10 bolt. There werent any crazy differences in the bearings in an SS rear were there?
Old 01-03-2006, 10:12 PM
  #8  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
 
SPEEDYws6's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Longview, TX
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Check out Billingsley Racings new site http://www.billingsleyracing.com/drivetrain.html

That's where I got mine from. Fully assembled with 35 splines, detroit locker, new reluctor rings, new backing plates, 3" wheel studs, big fill plug was right at $3000. I would have saved more if I assembled it myself, but it was worth the extra $ for a little less trouble and the time saved. Compare what you get from Billingsley to other places and you will find they are pretty affordable, you get alot more, and it's very high quality.
Old 01-03-2006, 11:07 PM
  #9  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
KurtRardin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Montgomery, AL
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

$3K is a lot though, thats a Moser and a set of headers/ORY!
Old 01-04-2006, 02:27 AM
  #10  
Flossin' twin turbos
iTrader: (55)
 
Moparnos (The SLP Guy)'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

i have a 4ch moser w/ spool. it's hard to install there's only a few things you have to do to make it fit. nice piece over all
Old 01-04-2006, 06:40 AM
  #11  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
KurtRardin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Montgomery, AL
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

What was hard about the install?
Old 01-04-2006, 10:13 AM
  #12  
Banned
iTrader: (8)
 
J&J Speed Shop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Western New York
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by KurtRardin
What kind of luck does everyone have with their Moser 9" with 4 channel ABS? Are they hard to install? Are there any nightmares? Does the ABS setup work well enough that you cant tell its any different than stock? Does the ASR still work like it did?
It sounds like you dont need to shorten the drive shaft, and there is no modification to the car at all. Is it a true bolt in? I guess for $2400 it ought to fit in extremely easy and work exactly like the 10 bolt did. How long does the job take usually (from jacking the car up and yanking the 10 out to letting it back down 9inched)?

What spline axles should i get? If 35 spline axles are free then why not get them? Do the brakes still work with 35 spline?

Thanks
They are no harder to than a stock rearend. The ABS and traction control will work like stock. They Moser 9" comes unassembled which really isn't a big deal. That gives you a chance to paint the housing. Then you just need to bolt on the center section transfer over you brake backing plates and slide in the axles, fill it up and break it in on jack stands. As far as 35 spline axles, yes they are free but it also adds weight and rotating mass, which if you don't need it is useless. If you are under 1000 rwhp I would say stick with 33 splines. Job time would depends on the tools you have available. I can swap a rearend once the Moser 9" is put together in about 1 hour taking my time.
Old 01-04-2006, 10:31 AM
  #13  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
 
MrDude_1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 3,366
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by JnJSpdShop
They are no harder to than a stock rearend. The ABS and traction control will work like stock. They Moser 9" comes unassembled which really isn't a big deal. That gives you a chance to paint the housing. Then you just need to bolt on the center section transfer over you brake backing plates and slide in the axles, fill it up and break it in on jack stands. As far as 35 spline axles, yes they are free but it also adds weight and rotating mass, which if you don't need it is useless. If you are under 1000 rwhp I would say stick with 33 splines. Job time would depends on the tools you have available. I can swap a rearend once the Moser 9" is put together in about 1 hour taking my time.
if you have any sort of a budget, i would go one step further and say 31 spline.
31 spline is what ford trucks have run for decades. because of this, theres a HUGE amount of 31 spline lockers/posi's/spools/ect... and there is a HUGE price diff between a 31 spline diff, and a 33/35/whatever one..
plus, short of autocrossing with a spool, you're never going to break the 31 spline axles... not only are they huge strong 9" axles.. they're stronger aftermarket axles.
this is not the popular train of thought for this board. most guys here think the more splines it has, the more badass of a rear end it is... so alot will disagree with me.



btw, on the boltin issue. the torque arm mount of a 9" is slightly towards teh drivers side more then stock. spohn and some others have a 2nd set of holes so the arm stays straight. this isnt a large issue, but it does have one effect.. most guys will have to use a hammer and dent the floorpan near the TQ arm mount, so that it clears. this is the minor clearancing mentioned in the first reply. its no big deal, however some people do not like the idea of hitting their car with a hammer.. i just thought id share the heads up.

as far as the driveability is, that is 100% dependant on what you buy for a centersection.
a spool is going to suck on the street, a locker is one step better, but its loud. a posi will be similar to stock, give or take some chatter depending on design/brand.

btw, you will want a adjustable torque arm. between production variances, aftermarket parts, and the black magic that never lets things fit right, your pinion angle will probly be slightly off.
some people get it perfect with the stock TQ arm.. i call thoes people lucky.. lol. most of us will want to adjust it slightly to get it right.


the hardest part of this install will probly be having the bearings pressed on.
you need to remove your old brake backing plates from the stock rear end.
take the plates, your new 9" axles, and the new 9" axle bearings, and goto a place with a press.
they can then slip the brake plate over the axle, and press the bearing on... trapping the backing plate onto the axle.. this is why it comes unassembled.


i hope i helped answer your questions somewhat.
Old 01-04-2006, 11:09 AM
  #14  
dug
Banned
iTrader: (10)
 
dug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 3,721
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Mr. Dude

How cheap could you build up a 9" with 31 spline axles and traction lok differential?
Old 01-04-2006, 11:18 AM
  #15  
Banned
iTrader: (8)
 
J&J Speed Shop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Western New York
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by MrDude_1
if you have any sort of a budget, i would go one step further and say 31 spline.
31 spline is what ford trucks have run for decades. because of this, theres a HUGE amount of 31 spline lockers/posi's/spools/ect... and there is a HUGE price diff between a 31 spline diff, and a 33/35/whatever one..
plus, short of autocrossing with a spool, you're never going to break the 31 spline axles... not only are they huge strong 9" axles.. they're stronger aftermarket axles.
this is not the popular train of thought for this board. most guys here think the more splines it has, the more badass of a rear end it is... so alot will disagree with me.



btw, on the boltin issue. the torque arm mount of a 9" is slightly towards teh drivers side more then stock. spohn and some others have a 2nd set of holes so the arm stays straight. this isnt a large issue, but it does have one effect.. most guys will have to use a hammer and dent the floorpan near the TQ arm mount, so that it clears. this is the minor clearancing mentioned in the first reply. its no big deal, however some people do not like the idea of hitting their car with a hammer.. i just thought id share the heads up.

as far as the driveability is, that is 100% dependant on what you buy for a centersection.
a spool is going to suck on the street, a locker is one step better, but its loud. a posi will be similar to stock, give or take some chatter depending on design/brand.

btw, you will want a adjustable torque arm. between production variances, aftermarket parts, and the black magic that never lets things fit right, your pinion angle will probly be slightly off.
some people get it perfect with the stock TQ arm.. i call thoes people lucky.. lol. most of us will want to adjust it slightly to get it right.


the hardest part of this install will probly be having the bearings pressed on.
you need to remove your old brake backing plates from the stock rear end.
take the plates, your new 9" axles, and the new 9" axle bearings, and goto a place with a press.
they can then slip the brake plate over the axle, and press the bearing on... trapping the backing plate onto the axle.. this is why it comes unassembled.


i hope i helped answer your questions somewhat.
"... so alot will disagree with me."

Well you would be wrong cause I agree with you 100%. I am all about keeping the weight down to not suck additional HP that could be going to the ground. I usually recommend the 33 spline for most drag guys because of the Moser warranty against breakage, where the 31 spline don't have the same 10 yr. warranty, but you are right most people would never break the 31 spline axles.
Old 01-04-2006, 11:22 AM
  #16  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
KurtRardin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Montgomery, AL
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Thats a lot of good advice! Thanks!
Old 01-04-2006, 11:24 AM
  #17  
Flossin' twin turbos
iTrader: (55)
 
Moparnos (The SLP Guy)'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

oops i meant its not hard
Old 01-04-2006, 04:38 PM
  #18  
TECH Resident
iTrader: (6)
 
LoPeY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: The other, other, other A-Town, NM
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

My 9" (spool, 4.30s, 35 spline) sees a 30 mile trip to work in heavy city traffic every so often. The spool is very easily streetable. It's not even an issue in parking lots. I don't understand why some people think a little bit of clunking and hopping is really that bad. I wouldn't advise driving the spool in wet conditions though.
Old 01-04-2006, 09:15 PM
  #19  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
 
SPEEDYws6's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Longview, TX
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Keep in mind that I got Brand new backing plates, new reluctor rings, and assembly for $3000. Their standurd 9" starts at $2200.
Old 01-05-2006, 08:06 AM
  #20  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
 
MrDude_1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 3,366
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by LoPeY
...The spool is very easily streetable... ...I wouldn't advise driving the spool in wet conditions though.
i think you answered your own question for a daily driver aka a actual street car... not a "street car"

Originally Posted by SPEEDYws6
Keep in mind that I got Brand new backing plates, new reluctor rings, and assembly for $3000. Their standurd 9" starts at $2200.

the housing/axle/torque arm mount kit starts at $830 or so... $925 by the time its at your door. you will then need your current backing plates, and a centersection. if you dont have a problem with a used centersection, and no TCS/ABS, then you can stuff a 9" under your car for as cheap as $1200...
if you want to have everything new, TCS/ABS working, everything overkill race setup, you can spend over $3000
90% of us dont need a fullon moser race centersection for our race cars... thats where half the cost is on that 2k rear everyone looks at on here... noone looks elsewhere at teh billions of 9" parts.... ive never quite understood why.. i mean, most people on here know how to use the internet to find parts, i cant see how they miss all of the 9" stuff out there??



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:32 PM.