View Full Version : Beware of LOW mileage WS6?


di0ck
01-04-2006, 03:39 AM
Imagine you are shopping for an 02 black WS6. Lucky you. :devil:

You find two of them within a few hours drive from you, and both these cars have ~30k miles on them.

- One was purchased to be stored as a collector's car some time in 2004, registered as a non-op vehicle and has been garaged. Only a few thousand miles are put on in 2004, and in 2005 only 9 miles are driven. The last oil change was performed in May 2004, but the car has been started once a month during its hibernation. The car is completely stock.

- The other Black WS6 is slightly modded. Featuring a Borla catback, drilled/slotted front rotors, Centerforce dual friction clutch, and 4.10 gears were added to the stock 10bolt. The car's owner drives the car daily currently, and remarks on retaining good fuel economy with 2-4-6 shifting, and adds that the clutch is not too hard to drive around town.

:burn:

So the choice is yours.
- Are you worried about the condition of the non-op WS6 since its been sitting for 2 years, and hasnt had an oil change in 18 months?

or

- Do the centerforce clutch and 4.10's in the stock 10bolt scare you more?

di0ck
01-04-2006, 11:43 AM
Morning bump.

OK, over 30 views and only one vote... if you don't have time to EXPLAIN your opinion, please just vote of the poll! Thanks :)

'Trust'
01-04-2006, 11:51 AM
Thats a tough one man, with the car in storage it would be a good idea to make sure th fuel system is till in good order, may need to be cleaned because it hasnt been used much, once a month to start it is good, but wont get everything. In either car, i'd run some seafoam through it and change all the fluids and filters for piece of mine, then just pick the one that you like best, if the paint on one is better than the other, pick that one, if they are about equal i'd take the modded one personally if you trust the guy and he hasnt beaten it to a pulp everyday, so im voting modded.

Commando
01-04-2006, 11:59 AM
i'd run some seafoam through it

What is this? :confused:

mcG
01-04-2006, 11:59 AM
i was looking for a black 02 ws6 myself a few months ago, luckily my friend decided to sell me hers :)

but that is a tough choice. if they have the same amount of miles and are the same price, i'd go for the modded one. i would take the garaged one only if it had really low miles, but it sounds like they both have ~30k.

di0ck
01-04-2006, 12:09 PM
thanks for the post, i realize no one can decide for me and it is largely a matter of "what i want".

For the car that was in storage, would fuel system cleanliness be the only thing you'd worry about? I was worried that some seals would dry and crack, or that fluids would go bad like trans fluid or even the fuel in the tank.

The modded car, well, no i cannot trust the guy fully yet. We've just had one phone call, but he seemed to understand my concerns with the stock 10bolt, and with the clutch. He said "I know a lot of people don't like the Centerforce, but i have no problems with it, i love it!" and about when asking about driveline abuse/launching he said he hasnt really raced it.

At any rate: you said to pick the one with the cleanest paint. Thats probably true for a black paint job, because they can go south in a pretty bad way. The modded one has lived and been driven out in the desert near Palm Springs, CA. The stock one has been in a garage under a car cover in Redondo Beach, CA... on the coast, in the city.

I would probably be a lot more into the modded one if i wasn't paranoid of the 4.10's! I worry that i'd (a) break the 10bolt too quickly (b) more easily lose control of the rear end or (c) get really poor mpg.

Hey mcG, (nice car! I remember looking at your pics in the last few weeks and how it made me want a black ws6 even more!) I have a feeling the 30k miles is a reason the guy's deciding not to keep it as a collector car... its not gonna hold its value like it would if it was <15k miles. I'd imagine the modded one had to have been taken care of pretty well if it still only has 30k miles too!

Thank you all for more input!

warpwr
01-04-2006, 12:26 PM
I would always pick the stock car. Any car that has been modified has been driven hard or else why modify it. You might want to do your own thing. I would ask why are they selling.
I don't see why storage with occasional starts would hurt it.

My 02 SS has 24K miles and mostly just sits in the garage with a cover on her. It comes out for runs to Vegas and stuff like that. I bought it new (with a 50K/7 year warranty) and it still smells new inside. Runs just like the day I bought it, It has thrown one SES code and the dealer replaced 1997272 solenoid #P0410. The rest is just oil changes using Mobil 1.

jbaur
01-04-2006, 12:42 PM
Simple solution: Get the modded one and I'll take the stock one

Orange Terror
01-04-2006, 12:42 PM
18 months started every month. I'd ask if they used any stabil in the fuel tank and if they have added any fresh fuel. Other than that, I'd go with the stocker, change the oil, put in fresh gas, some more stabil, and drive it. 18 months isn't that long, especially since it gets ran monthly. My car sits 6 months out of the year, no problems from it.

I agree on the modded one if you weren't going to drive it hard why would you mod it? Plus I bet the paint is better on the garaged one and the interior has seen way less sun. If it were me I'd get the stored one, let the modded one go.

BigWillieStyle_21
01-04-2006, 01:01 PM
The 2002 WS-6 I just got was an Ohio car.. It had 7,1xx mi. when i got it... It was garage stored and only run one day or so a month after its first 6 months in 2002... Its emaculate and smells like new and looks it threouout..

The owner owned a GM Truck dealershiop and had it for giggles.. The only mods he did was Borla Exhuast and drop-in K&N filter.. He did put Modil 1 Full-synthetic before storage, and all the fluids looked like new when I picked it up. I did run Lucas UpperCylinder fuel additive through it.. And plan to swith all fluids for AMSOIL in a month or 2..

I say go for the stored car... But if it was stored why does it have 30K miles????

BIG

di0ck
01-04-2006, 01:43 PM
wow, very helpful info guys!

the stock one got its 30k miles from the owner before this one, who is said to be a female who originally had a 99 t/a and then traded in the 02 when she wanted to add another horse (equastrian not vehicular) to her stable. the owner who has it now bought it to keep it as a collector car and he has a collection of a few 70's-80's T/A's right now.

the modded one, well, im not sure why he's selling honestly... but yea, i think it was driven as it was intended to be... but it was funny when he tried to tell me the 4.10 gears weren't really a performance mod. i said "wait, no... those gears are for the sole purpose of kick-ass acceleration" ... and lets take note that the clutch went out already before he hit 30,000 miles (hes the 2nd owner) .. so either he or the previous owner did show that clutch/driveline some heat!

Looks like the stock one has taken the lead!! :D

Camaro Hamster
01-04-2006, 02:20 PM
I say go stock. I hate modded cars. You don't know if it was done correctly or if the driver is a bonehead driver.

Orange Terror
01-04-2006, 02:26 PM
I say go stock. I hate modded cars. You don't know if it was done correctly or if the driver is a bonehead driver.


:stupid:

Another good point. You don't know what they've done and how they did it.

Roarin_8
01-04-2006, 02:57 PM
I'm guessin that the stock one is an manual as well right?

rdeterman
01-04-2006, 03:11 PM
go for the stocker

di0ck
01-04-2006, 03:24 PM
yea, they are both M6...

i currently drive an import with an A4 and steptronic shifting... time for the real thing now!

Super Speed
01-04-2006, 03:32 PM
You didn't tell us the prices that would be a HUGE factor! Let us in on the prices and it'd be alot easier to vote!

di0ck
01-04-2006, 03:43 PM
ahhh, sorry i omitted that.

The asking price on both cars was listed as $23,000. Which is over KBB by a few thousand.

The stock car's owner said he couldnt go lower than $21,500. [via email]

The modded car's owner said he was flexible on his price, but we did not get further into other offers. [I'm pretty sure he'd at least match the $21,500 the other guy offered.]

dug
01-04-2006, 03:46 PM
Just drive both cars and buy which ever car feels the most solid. You can tell when a car has been beat on. Everything feels much looser. Avoid that.

JerseyLS1TA
01-04-2006, 03:50 PM
Just change all the fluids/filters and a tune-up on the stored one and it should be fine. When I was looking I tried to avoid the modded ones b/c obviously they have been driven hard from time to time, but then again I'm sure the stock ones have to. Eh, I voted for the stock, stored one.

di0ck
01-04-2006, 03:57 PM
hmmm, so im thinking that it'd be a lot easier to get piece of mind by getting the stock one and just doing a good tune-up on it, than getting the modded one and being totally paranoid about the gears and the 10bolt.

Plus, i'll learn more about the fbody by replacing the rotors myself when i need to, and making my own selection for exhaust.

Roarin_8
01-04-2006, 04:12 PM
yea, they are both M6...

i currently drive an import with an A4 and steptronic shifting... time for the real thing now!

Ok just asking since you had posted about changing the trans fluid.

di0ck
01-04-2006, 04:16 PM
cool. thanks for your interest and input! :)

Super Speed
01-04-2006, 04:21 PM
A few thousand over the kbb, don't go over you can find great deals for the car if you take your time and wait but that stored one isnt going to be flawless its going to be as good as any 30k mile car for that much money i'm sure you can find a good garage stored one w/ less miles man!

redtail2426
01-04-2006, 05:07 PM
I heard that frequent starting of a stored car is not as good as just leaving it to sit without starting.I guess the added contaminants and moisture created by the frequent starting contaminates the oil with moisture and gas.If the oil cant get up to 212* which i dont think it can just idling,then it wont burn off the extra moisture left in it.I just change my oil right before it gets stored,and let it sit for 6 months.It takes a lot more then sitting to gum up an injector,especialy an ls1 at 58 psi.

di0ck
01-04-2006, 05:34 PM
well i emailed the owner of the stock car b/c i'll be passing through his city on Friday before a regional car club meet, I'm hoping to check out the car and talk to the owner... I've been lookin for T/A's in Los Angeles for the last few months and 30k miles is the lowest i've see so far. Besides, this is about my price range... the other T/A's making my consideration were at like 50k miles some mods and asking $18k...

Hopefully I can talk the guy down to about $20,000 or $19,500 because thats what i've seen a silver ws6 going for with 40k miles and full-boltons+cam!!

2K2WS6TA
01-04-2006, 05:48 PM
I'd go for the stock one, you said he has several other T/As, so I would guess he knows something about storing cars, plus you never know about a modded one, the mods might not have been done right, the car may have been beat on (a clutch change at around 30k indicates to me some abusive driving)
Check the stored one out carefully after its been driven, check for leaks (seals can dry out during long term storage) not so much on the engine, as its been run, but the trans and rear
Good luck with your search

di0ck
01-04-2006, 05:55 PM
thank you very much, those are pretty good tips to drive the car and then check for leaks in the driveline. I'm gonna bring some shop lights, my floor jack and jack stands, so i can really check it out.

hopefully he emails me back or calls the # i left him.

sidewayz28
01-04-2006, 06:33 PM
MY OPINION..get the car thats been sitting...with those mods its OBVIOUS that driver had probably wanted to race it MEANING he abused it...probably a little more than you think!!!! we own a couple classic/show cars that stay parked in the garage (67 vette, 57 belair) and my dad starts them about once a month sometimes even longer...they are running fine and nothing is wrong with them...in MY OPINION if you buy that modded one you are just asking to have it crap out on YOU..get the car that has been taken care of!

di0ck
01-04-2006, 06:38 PM
:) thanks! good to hear from other car collector's in regards to storing cars.

RPM WS6
01-04-2006, 09:25 PM
I heard that frequent starting of a stored car is not as good as just leaving it to sit without starting.I guess the added contaminants and moisture created by the frequent starting contaminates the oil with moisture and gas.If the oil cant get up to 212* which i dont think it can just idling,then it wont burn off the extra moisture left in it.I just change my oil right before it gets stored,and let it sit for 6 months.It takes a lot more then sitting to gum up an injector,especialy an ls1 at 58 psi.

There are arguements on both sides of that. Letting the motor sit without starting for long periods of time can cause the rings to score the cylinder walls from sitting in one position so long.

Personally, I try to start mine once every month or two during my 5 month winter storage period, which means I usually end up running the motor 3-4 times during the term of storage. This allows me to run the A/C compressor as well to lubricate the system. I've been doing that with all my F-bodies that I've stored over the winters for many, many years now without any issues.

I guess the ultimate precaution would be to crank the motor without starting it, just to put the pistons in a different position. You could just pull power/fuses to the injectors and ignition system so it won't fire. But I still like to be able to run the A/C system as well, which you need to run the motor to do.

I don't see 3-4 starts plus associated 20-30 minute idling periods over a 5-6 month time frame causing any serious breakdown in the oil, however, I would not recommend starting the car every few days during winter storage as I see some people doing. I could certainly see dozens of cold starts with nothing but idling possibily causing significant breakdown of the oil.

circusboy
01-04-2006, 09:45 PM
If the owner lets you jack up his car, make sure you put the jack at the correct jacking point. It would be bad if you messed up his fenders, :(

I vote for the stock one.

350-Z28
01-04-2006, 09:53 PM
I voted for mildly modded one, if the guy is concerned about fuel economy and shifts like that i doubt it was beaten. The one that sat worries me because of last oil change, granted it never drove, and has only idled once a month that could lead to problems later down the line. A lot of time spent at idle wears out parts that need to be exercised. I voted mildly modded one just cause she got out a little more and you wont have to worry about engine problems cause by sitting and idling.

Just noticed mention of a clutch change. Could also have been the guy simply wanted a perf clutch and had money to throw around. I replaced the entire clutch system in my 84 when only the master cylinder was bad, and went with a heavy duty mild performance clutch. And that clutch in there, with 5k on the clock will get replaced again with an engine swap. Just playing devils advocate, saw a few vehicles stored that have been run over storage period have issues, noticeably oil control rings. Wasn't an LS1 powered car but still, same principle, good luck. And whichever car you buy if it breaks you can feel free to give me title and keys =P

RPM WS6
01-04-2006, 10:49 PM
Just playing devils advocate, saw a few vehicles stored that have been run over storage period have issues, noticeably oil control rings. Wasn't an LS1 powered car but still, same principle, good luck.

That can work both ways. I actually own a vehicle that was stored for too long without being run ('76 Eldorado), about two years. Ran perfect before storage. When i did start to run it again, the motor almost immediately developed internal issues. Only reason I didn't run that car during storage once in awhile like my Camaro was due to laziness. I had a lot of junk stored in the way because the car was not driveable (needed major brake system work, still does actually) and I just wasn't motivated to keep up with running it like I should have been.

On the other hand, I've had no issues at all with the F-bodies I've stored over ~6 month periods being run a few times in that time frame. I think a limited amount of cold starts during storage is key.....just often enough to re-coat the valvetrain with oil and get the piston rings in a different spot on the cylinder bore every so often. Also, as i stated above, this allows for the oppertunity to run/lubricate the A/C system as well.

sidewayz28
01-05-2006, 01:07 AM
what you need to do is ask the owner ALOT of questions...take the car for a test drive, thats the best way to see how a car runs

sidewayz28
01-05-2006, 01:09 AM
on saturday im looking at a 2001 SS, 21k miles, m6. i already got a lot of questions asked, when i see it im guna inspect it front/back/right side up/upside down and then test drive it. if its cherry then im driving home with a new car

di0ck
01-05-2006, 03:12 AM
On the other hand, I've had no issues at all with the F-bodies I've stored over ~6 month periods being run a few times in that time frame. I think a limited amount of cold starts during storage is key.....just often enough to re-coat the valvetrain with oil and get the piston rings in a different spot on the cylinder bore every so often. Also, as i stated above, this allows for the oppertunity to run/lubricate the A/C system as well.
Well I got his number tonight and called him. Nice gentlemen, guessing mid30s, very willing to talk. Told me a lot about his other collection of cars, i was impressed with his 3rd gen fbody enthusiasm!

I've made arrangements to see the car on Friday at 8pm. I will get to drive the car, but since its registered as non-op vehicle, the tags are dated 2004!! That will sort of keep us from driving toooo far or for thaaat long. He lives in Redondo Beach so its all pretty urban and another traffic filled LA nightscene, and we don't want to be pulled over!

I talked to him about all the great advice that I learned from all you guys! So we talked about fuel stabilzer [which he did use!], about running the a/c and bringing the car to full operating temperature when warming it up. SoCal only only has a few cold days a year below 50deg. and im sure he wouldnt have started it on one of those mornings when it'll back to the 70's next week. :)

I asked him if he had a jack and jack stands so i could get under her after we drive it so I can inspect the drivetrain for any leaks. He understood and approved, also mentioning that there have been no leaks on the garage floor beneath it the entire time.

That will be Friday night.

Then... Here's a bit of help i'm gonna try to get.

My brother's friend is always over at my house, and is very knowledgable with the LS1. He is a mechanic at MagnaCharger in Ventura, ca where they specialize in roots-style blowers for the C5s and GTO's with LS1's and LS6's. I've asked him if, on friday i decide i want to further with the deal, he would return to see the car with me. This would be on the weekend, so then i'd be able to get a look at the car with daylight too!! I'm asking my brother's friend to help inspect the motor and drivetrain his more skilled eye!

rgaynor85
01-05-2006, 10:54 AM
Go with the stock one, not a big deal changing fluids and running cleaner throught the fuel system, the cars is all original and if its in storage from a collector you know its probably meticulously taken care of. the modded car, like many have said is probably beat on and taken alot of abuse, and that rear might be ready to snap. id would go with the stored car dude its the only smart choice. just think 21+ thousand is a big investment go with the better investment choice

Swang
01-05-2006, 11:14 AM
There are arguements on both sides of that. Letting the motor sit without starting for long periods of time can cause the rings to score the cylinder walls from sitting in one position so long.

Personally, I try to start mine once every month or two during my 5 month winter storage period, which means I usually end up running the motor 3-4 times during the term of storage. This allows me to run the A/C compressor as well to lubricate the system. I've been doing that with all my F-bodies that I've stored over the winters for many, many years now without any issues.

I guess the ultimate precaution would be to crank the motor without starting it, just to put the pistons in a different position. You could just pull power/fuses to the injectors and ignition system so it won't fire. But I still like to be able to run the A/C system as well, which you need to run the motor to do.

I don't see 3-4 starts plus associated 20-30 minute idling periods over a 5-6 month time frame causing any serious breakdown in the oil, however, I would not recommend starting the car every few days during winter storage as I see some people doing. I could certainly see dozens of cold starts with nothing but idling possibily causing significant breakdown of the oil.

yeah, i start mine once every couple weeks and let it run for like an hour. drive it around the lot, cutting the wheel fully each way making a figure 8, rev it up after it gets up to operating temp...i think its better for it personally than never starting it.

Swang
01-05-2006, 11:16 AM
oh btw...id say get the stocker. anyone who puts in 4.10's for shits and giggles is rare...and i doubt this guy is it...i bet its been raced, maybe not abused...but raced ill bet.

di0ck
01-05-2006, 12:27 PM
yep. if you look up at post #37, I've made plans to go see the stock car on Friday. The owner is going to get her out of the garage and clean enough area for us to be able to jack it up and get under it. It's in his small, cluttered, one car garage.

Yep. I'm gonna check up with my credit union again today and make sure my loan is still lined up, and I'm going to contact my insurance agent to get a true quote for what my premium is actually going to be! :) Hopefully by sunday night I'll be able to make a decision.

sidewayz28
01-05-2006, 08:18 PM
swang not trying to argue here...but putting 4.10s in a stock 10 bolt is basically abusing it, seeing that itll break very quick

Keenov
01-05-2006, 08:28 PM
swang not trying to argue here...but putting 4.10s in a stock 10 bolt is basically abusing it, seeing that itll break very quick

Not true.

CashMoney
01-05-2006, 09:05 PM
Basically it boils down to what options/price/and what you want in the car I searched for 3 months my my Camaro SS. It was a toss up between the '97 30th ann. Camaro SS (lt-1) or the 01 SS (ls-1) and I chose. Both had 20k miles on it. Both the asking price was 17.5 and neither had a single scratch in the paint. I like the 01 better and purchased it.

But if it came down to eveything being exactly the same, and you had a choice between lightly modded and stored. I would pick stored. You said your not sure about the 4.10's. Buy the non-modded car and Mod what you want to mod. That's really what modding is about customizing your car to your tastes.

Pokeyhawk
01-05-2006, 09:05 PM
I think the one question that needs to be asked here is what do you intend to do with the car? Is it going to be a daily driver, a weekend toy for cruising and occasionally racing, or a garage queen?

If you are going to just daily drive it or let it be a garage queen for future collectibility, get the stocker. It'll probabbly be more reliable and get better gas mileage, plus give you a little more piece of mind.

If you want a weekend toy to cruise and occasionally race, get the modded one. You get more for your money because you get the speed parts for free (since the 2 cars are priced the same) and it'll be more fun to drive.

I prefer original, unmodded cars, but I bought a modded Firehawk for the reason I just listed. I also felt confident in buying it because after talking with the owner and looking through the meticulous documentation of every mod and service record, I knew the car wasn't abused.

Hope this helps

di0ck
01-05-2006, 09:45 PM
I'm gonna use the car to commute with, take on beach cruises, canyon carving, and I may or may not take it to the track. I've pretty much decided on the stock one... I've talked to both sellers and the owner of the stock one was more mature and knowledgable.

I don't want to be stuck with 4.10 gears... I'm gonna mod the car, but I'm gonna do it myself, and very mildly... I doubt I'd ever put in 4.10's if I had the choice.

DrEvyl
01-05-2006, 10:53 PM
Stock is the only way to go... I hate trying to figure out what all has been done to a car, and fixing people's mistakes.

And as for 4.10s... don't knock it until you've tried it. I woulda said the same thing before I bought a car and discovered after the fact it had 4.10s in it.

sidewayz28
01-06-2006, 02:24 AM
i would until people convinced me not to touch the stock 10 bolt (gears thread) saying "i would kill my 10bolt instantly" and so on and so on....
but i would still go for the stock car, im pretty sure stock m6 has decent gears anyways

di0ck
01-06-2006, 05:53 AM
stock ratio in ss and ws6 is 3.53 right? or real close to that? ... yea, its pretty good already. obviously, owners of these fbodys have grown accustomed to them.

me on the other hand, am 22 and have been driving a small fwd coupe with a 3.0L V6... the stock gears in the ws6 with all that power and rwd will plenty for me for a while. i dont need to break traction any easier than that LS1 will already :D besides, keeping that stock car stock or not far from it, will be a good idea! :D i sound like the other ppl in the club here "oh, im gonna keep this car stock" hahahha yea right... no no... i plan on improving the suspension and getting this thing to put its power down through corners, not just straight lines. then I'll worry about more power later.

RPM WS6
01-06-2006, 06:39 AM
stock ratio in ss and ws6 is 3.53 right? or real close to that? ... yea, its pretty good already. obviously, owners of these fbodys have grown accustomed to them.



3.42 gears stock for all M6 F-bodies.

3.23 gears stock for A4 WS6 cars.

99HUGGRSS
01-06-2006, 06:55 AM
i've got a 99 HOSS, i bought it brand new with 11 miles on the odometer. as of right now i have 9200 miles on it because i work out of the country. it is in a garage most of the time for long periods of time and i DO NOT HAVE ANY KIND OF MECHANICAL PROBLEM. BUY THE GARAGED ONE!!! just my opinion

01SSRMS
01-06-2006, 11:32 AM
Honestly, at that price I'm not sure I'd be interested in either, definitely not the modded one. I think Bluebook on those is 16k-17k RETAIL. I know things are always more expensive in Cali, but I think you could do better. I bought my 01 SS with 40,000 miles, bone stock, for 15k a year and a half ago. If you're set on either car, I would take the one in storage. 18 months is not a long enough time to be too concerned with. Put some fuel Stabil in it and top off with 93 or as close as you can get. I don't think I would personally be too worried about the tranny fluid, but you could change it out for about $20 for piece of mind. Oh, and Seafoam is an additive that you can add to your fuel tank to clean the fuel injectors and combustion chambers. You can also add it your oil just before an oil change and it will clean out deposits there. It's available at O'reilly's and I'm sure some other parts stores, though Advance and Autozone here do NOT carry it. Good luck with the decision.

di0ck
01-07-2006, 08:23 AM
i went and inspected the stock t/a tonight. i check her head to toe and i took lots of pics.

Please look at these photos and give me your opinion!

--I am really concerned with the pics of the 10bolt, there seemed to be fluid seepage but it was all dry to the touch. Is this the sign of something bad? Does it just mean the gasket has gone bad and can be fixed easily?

--The CV boots on the front wheels both showed a dark wet spot, but when i checked the boots they were not cracked or tearing.!!? What's happening there?!

--But check out the photo of how he had it stored with the whole interior covered and extra carpet covering the stock floormats! the thing was amazingly clean, nearly flawless! Only a few things like 2 small dings, 2 wheels have minor curb rash on them

Ive got to get to sleep. More info tomorrow

di0ck
01-07-2006, 01:53 PM
morning bump. i need advice on this car and the issues i found. [pictures and details in post above]

RPM WS6
01-07-2006, 02:02 PM
Don't know what's up with that spot on the boot....you said the boot was in perfect shape, so maybe something unrelated just got leaked on it somehow at some point?

As for the axle, looks like the rear cover gasket might be seeping a little bit. I don't really see that as a big deal....on the other hand, what did the axle look like from the other side (where the driveshaft meets the axle)? I'd be more concerned about any fluid leaks around the pinion seal area than from the rear cover.

di0ck
01-07-2006, 02:13 PM
Don't know what's up with that spot on the boot....you said the boot was in perfect shape, so maybe something unrelated just got leaked on it somehow at some point?

As for the axle, looks like the rear cover gasket might be seeping a little bit. I don't really see that as a big deal....on the other hand, what did the axle look like from the other side (where the driveshaft meets the axle)? I'd be more concerned about any fluid leaks around the pinion seal area than from the rear cover.
aaahhhh, thats one piece of advice i wish i got before last night!!! :) i didnt really inspect that side as closely. I was certainly distracted by what i took pictures of.

So the cover gasket could be bad and thats not a big deal. What about the way it appears to be seeping out the axle sides? :confused:

di0ck
01-07-2006, 03:45 PM
bump for a little help, please? :)

99blancoSS
01-07-2006, 04:13 PM
This should be a no brainer here: Stock. You never want to buy a moded car if you have a choice, unless you personaly know the owner and are a witness to its use. 410's in a stock rear-end? what for? why were the gears put in there in the first place? Tells you something about how the car has been driven right there. Car sitting in storage is know big deal. Cars with less miles on them are worth more money. This is an easy one to answer, your smartest buy here is the stock stored car. No question about it.

99blancoSS
01-07-2006, 04:23 PM
Didnt see those pics before I posted. Interesting, looks like the car was driven a bit. Is that curb rash on the same side as the scrape underneath the front end? Definately looks like some seepage there, but all in all not a whole lot to be worried about from what we've seen so far. take more pics underneath, the car was not stored for its whole life. I didnt read all the posts here either so...

RPM WS6
01-07-2006, 06:11 PM
aaahhhh, thats one piece of advice i wish i got before last night!!! :) i didnt really inspect that side as closely. I was certainly distracted by what i took pictures of.

So the cover gasket could be bad and thats not a big deal. What about the way it appears to be seeping out the axle sides? :confused:

I'd say to look at the other side of the axle when you go back, no need to even jack the car up really, just get underneath with a flashlight. If it's dry around the area where the DS & axle meet, I wounldn't really be worried about the rest of the rear. Mine seeps a little bit too from the cover gasket, it's done that ever since I did the fluid change last spring, I either didn't use enough gasket sealant or I over-tightened the bolts. Doesn't even concern me, it's not dripping or anything....just enough seepage to keep a couple of the bolt heads damp. I don't plan to do anything about it till the next fluid change.

Cover gasket/fluid is very easy to change for anyone that's ever used basic wrenches and sockets before. A pinion seal leaking though (other side of the axle) would be a more difficult repair.....but still not the end of the world or anything. :)

sidewayz28
01-07-2006, 07:04 PM
good luck with the car, i saw the SS today and it looked awesome, tommorow were going to drive test drive it and if it drives as good as it looks were paying him and im driving home with a new car tommorow

EchoMirage
01-08-2006, 04:07 PM
Even with it being stored for a year and a half, you should understand that this is still a very NEW car, not an old carborated smogger thats been under a tree in someones yard for a few years. With it being in CA, never seeing a cold day (under 50 isn't even cold), I wouldn't worry at all about any kind of 'storage issues'. I'll echo what everyone else said about buying a modified car. If there's nothing dripping on the floor under the CV boots or rear, then it's not leaking enough to actually cause much loss of fluid. Remember that nearly EVERY engine, seal, rear, etc, whether brand new or 20 years old, leaks a little something somewhere. The big question is how much it leaks. My brandy new 05 Colorado, 6 months old with 4K miles, already leaks oil from the oil pan gasket. Not much at all, doesn't even show on the dipstick, so if the rear isn't leaking enough to drip on the floor, I wouldn't worry about it.

dreammmatt
01-08-2006, 05:59 PM
I'd end up feeling bad if I got the WS6 that was to be a collector's car and end up driving it daily... but, if you take good care of it, and it has a happy life... I guess "why not."

sidewayz28
01-08-2006, 08:07 PM
hey i finally got my car!!! ill post a thread..heres a pic

RPM WS6
01-08-2006, 08:52 PM
hey i finally got my car!!! ill post a thread..heres a pic

Looks great. :)

sidewayz28
01-08-2006, 11:42 PM
thanks! tommorow ill post some more pics with a better camera. that was a quick pic i took right when i got it home with my shitty camera

99Z28camaroman
01-09-2006, 04:25 AM
Go for the stock car that's been stored and change all the fluids as already said.

Cars like to be used everyday it keeps everything moving, but as long as you lube everything before you start using it it should be fine.

di0ck
01-09-2006, 05:03 AM
i went back to see the car tonight to check the pinion seal

--> I found some nice black sludge all over the passenger side of the rear diff on the car, and on the axle on the that side. the drivers side was much cleaner.

This is gear oil, right? the oil was only on the car behind the u-joint. the pinion seal, correct?

--> I opened the fill plug and fluid was dripping out immeadiately, plenty full. i included a photo of the fluid so you could see if it is clean. looks good as far as i know.

Is this the bad news i was fearing? its been well lubed yet pinion seal appears to be leaking! how badly?

di0ck
01-09-2006, 05:06 AM
More Photos

99Z28camaroman
01-09-2006, 05:25 AM
There is nothing to worry about in these pics, I wish that my axle oil was that clean, that's a sure sign that the car has been stored and nothing to worry about.

I think your being a little to paranoid if oil comes out as soon as you take the plug out that means it filled to the correct level.

Go ahead and buy it if it's what you want!

Cars that have been babied all there lives just need to be handled gently at first until everything loosens up then there fine.

It's like buying a new car you don't go wild in it you run the motor in and wait till everything loosens up for a few 1000 miles before you start giving it some stick.

Andy

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
01-09-2006, 05:30 AM
Those pics are pretty normal for a stock 10 bolt.

Why does a 'stored' car have 30k miles on it?

di0ck
01-09-2006, 05:39 AM
the first 30k were from a female owner that owned it before him, probably driven by her husband a bit too. but ever since early 04 this guy has had it.

this is the first time ive ever bought a car private party so i really want to make sure i dont regret anything.

the owner said he'll call the dealer tomorrow and see if powertrain stuff like that would be covered by a warranty after the bumper-to-bumper warranty expires. sounds like it wouldnt need repairing from what you guys explain.

i think im gonna get this bad boy, fellas!! the black ws6 is #1 :)

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
01-09-2006, 06:07 AM
My vote is for the stored car that has not been modded.


As for the modded car, just remember this.
No one buys aftermarket parts to "not race" their car.

Orange Terror
01-09-2006, 09:23 AM
I see nothing to worry about in the pics either. Buy the car already!!!!

99Z28camaroman
01-09-2006, 03:13 PM
it sounds as if you are still unsure as wether to buy the stored car, why don't you pay for a proffesional to do a full mechanical independent check of the car and they will tell you if anything is wrong with it then you know where you stand.

I don't know who to recommend as I am in the UK and I would get an AA inspection done here, the guys on here will tell you who to use.

If the car has 30,000 miles from a first owner then everything is run in and should be fine.

02RedWS6RamAir
01-09-2006, 05:42 PM
I would always pick the stock car. Any car that has been modified has been driven hard or else why modify it. You might want to do your own thing. I would ask why are they selling.
I don't see why storage with occasional starts would hurt it.


Very well said, I agree go with the stocker.

di0ck
01-09-2006, 06:49 PM
well, im getting the stock one!

just working out all the bumps with registration and such, since its currently a non-op vehicle.

I also got the owner to smog his car on his dime, and drop the price about $500. This should help me with some initial costs like a nice claybar+wax job, getting a lifetime alignment put on the car, and changing the fluids so she can be running perfectly again.

RPM WS6
01-09-2006, 08:41 PM
well, im getting the stock one!



I think that's the right decision. :)

As said by others, I don't really see anything to be worried about in those pics either.

Rescue Ranger
01-10-2006, 09:26 PM
eh, beat the shit out of em' both. whichever drives better, get that one :D

Mike00ss
01-10-2006, 09:38 PM
i was in a similar position with an SS. I went with the completely stock one cause I feel most cars that have been modified has most likely been driven hard.

di0ck
01-11-2006, 12:36 AM
im in the process of the sale (for the stock one)... but the fact that its registered non-op has caused a little speed bump in getting the check cut from the bank.... probably won't have the car till sometime next week.

RPM WS6
01-11-2006, 07:50 AM
im in the process of the sale (for the stock one)... but the fact that its registered non-op has caused a little speed bump in getting the check cut from the bank.... probably won't have the car till sometime next week.

When you get it, take some pics and post 'em. :cheers:

bass685
01-12-2006, 02:04 PM
Congrats! The car looks great. Post up some pictures when you finally get it. I bought a totally stock Z about a year and a half ago that had 2700 miles on it and i dont regret it for a miniute. Its not stock anymore... :devil: , but thats besides the point. The point, as everyone the last 5 pages has been sayin, is that you'll have a car that hasent been toched in any way other than being driven. This way you dont have to worry about the previous owners workmanship, or what parts were put in.

Congrats:cheers:

di0ck
01-12-2006, 07:27 PM
thank you very much for that post, sir. I wish i was getting one with 3,000 miles instead of 30,000 but hey.. I don't really see much problem in that, just more haggling room in the deal for a NEAR mint WS6 :) I'll certainly be active here with pics and posts when I get her in my garage! :)

hawk#69
01-13-2006, 09:52 AM
I would get the stock one.

Firebuzzard
01-13-2006, 10:11 AM
18 months...thats nothin. My 1995 Firehawk went 8 years on the same oil by the previous owner while in storage...8 years!

di0ck
01-13-2006, 12:36 PM
holy crap. EIGHT YEARS! lol ... whoa!


ok, things are moving ahead with this sale and i should have the car by wednesday or thursday of next week.

What I need help with now is figuring out what amount of care the car needs before I drive it the 40miles back home? Should I change the oil before I drive it again? The fuel was treated with stabilizer, should I just top it off with fresh fuel? Maybe add some octane booster? Should I change the differential fluid later in the week? What about the trans fluid or engine coolant?

sidewayz28
01-15-2006, 11:57 PM
good luck with the car, im in love with mine...hope everything works out perfect for you!

99Z28camaroman
01-16-2006, 04:01 AM
Check fluids levels, engine oil, water and brake fluid.
Top up if with fuel if you need to to get home. no need for octane booster.

There is no need to change anything before you drive it home just make sure the levels are ok.

Change the oil and filter as soon as you can (unless it has been recently changed by the present owner). As far as all the other fluids are concerned consult youur service book and look at what intervals they are changed.

I would go for a brake fluid change as the can deteriorate in quality when the car is stood.

Axle oil quaility looked good from your pics so I would not worry about that.

Trans fluid have a look at the oil if it is clean, I would probaly not change it.

Coolant again look at the quality of it, is it clean and has antifreeze in it then ok if not change it.

The main thing is to make sure it has everthing that GM recomend to change or replace in the service schedule.

I am sure I will have forgot something others will also chime in and give you good advice.

Why don't you take the car to a GM dealer and have a full service tell him the car has been stood for 18 months and they will advise you what to have done.

This may be expensive but if you can afford $20.000 for the car you want if serviced correctly.

Don't be too worried about driving the car for the first time you have been for a test drive and it drove ok I presume if everything sounds ok then drive it.

Hope this is of help to you.

wmcrn
01-16-2006, 04:42 AM
eh, beat the shit out of em' both. whichever drives better, get that one :D

:funny: i don't know why your so concerned about the modded one, i beat the shit out of my car every chance i get. has 80k miles and still runs good. also as long as you don't put drag radials on the 10 bolt with 4.10's its fine. my buddy has had his for about 2 years now with no problems.

:lurk:

brad02somss
01-16-2006, 11:18 PM
I would pick the one that has been in storage. In my opinion, just because it has been in storage and not road driven, it was still started up and is fine. I would go for that one, just my IMHO.

Sgt. Spuds
01-17-2006, 04:31 PM
you still haven't bought a car, god damn go get that biatch and beat it like a toothless whore!

di0ck
01-18-2006, 07:12 PM
i was calling and calling and calling this guy and he wasnt pickin up, turns out he sold it out from under me, even after i had driven outta my way to see the car twice, and he didnt even let me make a counter offer!!! :bang:

i am so fucking pissed off!!! GOD DAMNIT!!!!!!!!!!

well, i learned a lot about shopping for a t/a... i'll know what to look for right away with the next ones i look at... but i really wanted that one and felt confident about it!!

something i didnt expect, there was one major thing wrong with that car... THE OWNER WAS A FUCKING PUSSY COCK GOBBLER!!!!! FFUUUCCKK!!! :(

RPM WS6
01-18-2006, 10:03 PM
i was calling and calling and calling this guy and he wasnt pickin up, turns out he sold it out from under me, even after i had driven outta my way to see the car twice, and he didnt even let me make a counter offer!!! :bang:

i am so fucking pissed off!!! GOD DAMNIT!!!!!!!!!!

well, i learned a lot about shopping for a t/a... i'll know what to look for right away with the next ones i look at... but i really wanted that one and felt confident about it!!

something i didnt expect, there was one major thing wrong with that car... THE OWNER WAS A FUCKING PUSSY COCK GOBBLER!!!!! FFUUUCCKK!!! :(

di0ck, sorry to hear the bad news. :( So you'd been in regular contact with the owner, had a deal worked out, and the only reason the sale to you didn't happen sooner was because of issues with his registration? Basically you guys were just waiting on that final detail and he pulled out for another buyer at the last minute?

What a cock. Sounds like the owner is :wrist: :gay: . Don't worry, what they say is true ya know; what goes around comes around.....he'll get what's commin to him one day ;)

Anyway, you'll find another. I still see plenty of ~30K mile LS1 'birds for sale. At the moment I know of two for sale in my area, a T/A and a Formula. Just keep looking and maybe you'll find a better one at an even better price. :thumb:

99Z28camaroman
01-19-2006, 04:47 PM
Sorry to here that, but you took too long to make up your mind. :cry:

I suppose you better buy the modded on now :jest:

Ghostintheshell
01-19-2006, 05:18 PM
* i should have read the last post before posting - sorry bout your luck *

STOCK...

Go stock.

Modded and not *really* raced? Gimmie a break. The stored WS6 COULD have been raced too - however, you KNOW the modded WS6 would have been neat on. Check the rear fender wells for the dimples ( a sign of hard launching )..

As for going with stock - you can choose what mods you need and want.

sidewayz28
01-19-2006, 10:57 PM
everything happends for a reason!!!!

di0ck
01-22-2006, 09:28 PM
hello to all my helpful LS1tech friends, theres a few of you that have continued to check this thread, and i appreciate it very much.

so, i moved on and found a new black ws6 to purchase... this one with many additional things i want, and none that i don't!!!! :) its lowered, has lojack, and tint!! :)

i attached some pics and i have a couple questions, thanks for reading!

#1 - LOWERED SUSPENSION - the owner bought the car, used, at the dealer already lowered... he doesnt know what parts where used to do it. I found nothing printed on the springs or shocks... while i dont really care what springs they are, i want to know that the shocks were upgraded to. By the looks of that bright orange strut, should i assume that they are aftermarket? does the color give an indication of what brand it is? Also, I believe that red bad by the rear axle is the panhard bar correct? im glad that was installed when it was lowered.

#2 - REAR END LEAKAGE - theres more leakage on this one than the other one i looked at with 30k miles... this has 40k miles so is this normal? the fluid was full still, but looked a little dirty. he's taking it to the dealer and paying $100 to have it inspected and his warranty will cover the rest if work is needed.

#3 - FRONT WHEEL JOINT - i wish i knew the name of this part, i thought it was a CV joint, but i think that only applies to FWD cars. but the picture that shows the joint with the bellow cover on it (part of the steering?) shows the same "wet area" as i noticed on the other T/A i looked at, but this one is showing it more-so. i inspected between the bellows and none were cracked, sooo nothing to worry about?

#4 - PREVIOUS DAMAGE - this guy's friend accidentally backed into his car a while ago and the hood/bumper/left headlight assembly were all replaced... this was a low speed accident. $3500 in damages ($1800 on the hood alone though) ... should i worry about anything other than hood alignment and headlight operation? I dont think its something that should rule the car out of my search, right?

di0ck
01-23-2006, 04:21 AM
heres a little g'morning bump. i need some advice today, im going to talk to the seller again by the afternoon

98Ztwentyeight
01-23-2006, 05:55 AM
if yah need a carfax msg me with the full vin # and we can pull some of the accident history

bass685
01-23-2006, 09:11 AM
not sure about those springs, but those shocks look like the stockers to me.

di0ck
01-23-2006, 11:55 AM
if yah need a carfax msg me with the full vin # and we can pull some of the accident historyi will need that carfax, thank you so much! i will PM you with the vin right now! :usa:
not sure about those springs, but those shocks look like the stockers to me.sigh, that sucks, stock shock don't last long when they ride below the stock ride height. can anyone confirm they are stock shocks? i thought the orange color would be a dead giveaway. i guess if they're stock it will give me a chance to upgrade to Koni's :D

johnpate01
01-23-2006, 12:21 PM
Those shocks are the factory Decarbon shocks. He may have cut the springs, but I can't tell in the picture.

98Ztwentyeight
01-23-2006, 01:00 PM
sorry its been in accident i looked up on the insurance database here at work and its was under 2,000 though. which isnt that bad of a claim
but dont pay top dollar for a car thats been in a accident
it will appraise lower ! I dont have alot of info on this accident
no police report present sorry.

di0ck
01-23-2006, 01:20 PM
hmmmm! - i thought you were mentioning something else... but he didn't own it back in Dec-03 when that collision inspection is dated!!! i have to ask about that!

he did divulge one accident to me... it was his friend whom backed his truck up into the front of the car... the hood front bumper and leftside headlight were replaced... at this point, since the fenders were being color matched and blended, he paid extra to have the car color sanded and more clear put on it.. so the black paint has a really deep gloss to it.

he showed me all the paper work for it and it didnt seem like a big deal... seeing as its on carfax though, it WILL resell for less... but he isnt in a huge rush to sell, so he wont take a lowball offer.

EDIT: now that i learn that there was an accident previous to him owning it, it makes me a little wary... the first owner did keep it for a year after that... but only put 2,000 miles on it!
but, the second owner bought the car, and put another 25,000 miles on it... so i have to believe that there isn't really much of a problem.

also sad to hear confirmation those are stock shocks... i will have to let him know that they probably need to be replaced prematurely since its been lowered. i hope to god the springs weren't cut!!! that is so ghetto! i didnt find any brand info printed on the springs so is that a sign of OEM? i think most aftermarket springs say the brand on them and/or are a unique color.


Thanks everyone!

di0ck
01-23-2006, 05:22 PM
bump bump bump

RPM WS6
01-24-2006, 06:03 PM
Yep, orange shocks = stock color. The sticker on the shock looks like the factory markings on a stock DeCarbon shock as well.....

di0ck
01-24-2006, 07:36 PM
thanks man!! one little side-question then... whats special about the decarbon shocks? is that what is part of the WS6 package? just wondering because thats just jargon to someone new to fbodies.

i talked to the seller today, he's takin money off for the cheap lowering job... and he took the car to the dealer to be inspected under his extended warranty, 27-point inspection, and to point out the leaky pinion seal and power steering joints i discovered last weekend... the dealer is going to fix both under his warranty! so i think im getting the car since the rear diff is going to be in really good shape as well as the power steering, so i feel like thats nice piece-of-mind.

there has been some minor cosmetic damage to the car in the past... apparently both incidents were occurances where the car was stopped and got him by a motorcycle in the rear qtr panel the first time, and truck that backed into the front the second time... but those things don't seem like reason no to get the car, the condition of the outside is still prettty much perfect and the interior was great, it looked better than the garaged car with 30,000miles

johnpate01
01-24-2006, 07:43 PM
All V8 fbodies had the DeCarbon shocks if I remember correctly, not just a WS6/SS option, but the internal valving may be different. Not positive on the valving, anyone....

di0ck
01-24-2006, 07:47 PM
thanks for clearing that up!
...
so i'm thinking that this car was lowered by just heating up the springs or cutting them... the owner says it bottoms out too easily. and with stock shocks, i assume theyre wearing out faster than they should.

its odd that the car has a panhard-bar since the rest of the job was so shitty.

RPM WS6
01-24-2006, 07:52 PM
All V8 fbodies had the DeCarbon shocks if I remember correctly, not just a WS6/SS option, but the internal valving may be different. Not positive on the valving, anyone....

Shocks are the same on the WS6/SS and any other V8 LS1 car (orange DeCarbon). My '00 WS6 had exactly the same shocks as my '98 Z28 has. Only difference would be if your ordered the SS with the optional SLP Bilstein suspension (which includes shocks), or if you had the 1LE option package, which included Koni shocks I beleive, in additon to different bushings all around and 32mm front/21mm rear sway bar (vs the 30mm/19mm combo on the non-1LE base V8 cars or the 32mm/19mm on the WS6/SS).

The only suspension difference on the non-1LE WS6/non-Bilstein/non-1LE SS over the base V8s is the front sway bar (32mm on WS6/SS vs 30mm on Z28/Trans Am/Formula. The other major difference is the 17X9 wheels with 275/40/17 tires vs the base V8 16X8 wheels with 245/50/16 tires, and those wheels/tires account for the majority of the handling difference/improvement on the SS/WS6.

johnpate01
01-25-2006, 02:36 PM
Thats exactly the point I was trying to say. ^^

di0ck
02-03-2006, 02:02 PM
well buddies, i finally got my car yesterday.

2002 ws6 - 6spd - blk/blk - 40kmi
-lowered (unknown springs used with stock shocks)
-panhard bar
-strut tower brace
-tinted
-debadged (might slap just the ws6 badge back on it though)
-lojack

i picked it up yesterday at lunch and put a good 50 miles on it last night... i love the motor and trans so much! it handles pretty well, but the car is much heavier than my old eclipse, so it feels less responsive. i want to get a set of koni's and some sway bars though, and see how it feels then.

im so glad i got all your help before i bought my car, thank you ls1tech!!! thanks to what i learned here, i spotted leaks in the power steering and the pinion seal of the diff, and had them fixed under warranty before i bought the car, almost $1000 worth of work i saved myself for having to pay for.

I can tell the rotors are kinda warped so i'm gonna get some new ones and replace those soon. I'll also be getting a cool stereo mount from HUMOUNT.com for the kenwood touchscreen navigation system i'm going to be installing.

Roarin_8
02-03-2006, 02:15 PM
Good going :thumb: I would personally get the sway bars and konis from sam strano. As far as the rotors, get the brembo blanks with some hawk pads. Welcome to the LS1. :nod:

di0ck
02-03-2006, 02:30 PM
yea, ive definitely come to the conclusion that Sam Strano is who i want to talk to about my suspension needs. I'm glad there is someone like him in the club. In my eclipse niche, we have a suspension guru who works for RoadRaceEngineering called John Mueller, who custom tunes sets of JIC FLTA2 coilovers for people's eclipses.

regarding the rotors: i like the look of drilled and slotted rotors a lot, but i havent investigated my options much. i have read many posts saying to stay with blanks, some even say the GM blanks are just fine until they begin to warp. whats the typical price range on just 4 rotors like the brembo blanks?

regarding the hawk pads: I've dealt with hawk in my past as well, great pads, superb performance. What composition pads do fbody people tend to use? what are the hawks? are they cereamic or semi-metallic? I like the low dust and low noise of ceramic.

Roarin_8
02-03-2006, 02:36 PM
$63 each for the front and $72 each for the rear. The more surface area, the more stopping power. Thing of drill and slotted rotors giving a cheese grater effect to your pads. The hawk pads that I'm talking about are the street version. Not too sure what composition they use but I can find out.

Roarin_8
02-03-2006, 02:39 PM
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/results.jsp?autoMake=Chevrolet&autoModel=Camaro+Z28&autoYear=2000&autoModClar=&brand=Hawk

Street version uses composite material.

RPM WS6
02-03-2006, 07:06 PM
well buddies, i finally got my car yesterday.

2002 ws6 - 6spd - blk/blk - 40kmi
-lowered (unknown springs used with stock shocks)
-panhard bar
-strut tower brace
-tinted
-debadged (might slap just the ws6 badge back on it though)
-lojack

i picked it up yesterday at lunch and put a good 50 miles on it last night... i love the motor and trans so much! it handles pretty well, but the car is much heavier than my old eclipse, so it feels less responsive. i want to get a set of koni's and some sway bars though, and see how it feels then.

im so glad i got all your help before i bought my car, thank you ls1tech!!! thanks to what i learned here, i spotted leaks in the power steering and the pinion seal of the diff, and had them fixed under warranty before i bought the car, almost $1000 worth of work i saved myself for having to pay for.

I can tell the rotors are kinda warped so i'm gonna get some new ones and replace those soon. I'll also be getting a cool stereo mount from HUMOUNT.com for the kenwood touchscreen navigation system i'm going to be installing.

Congrats on the car. :cheers:

Glad you finally got what you wanted. :)

Have fun. :cool:

kornfreak_401
02-23-2006, 08:50 PM
Are You Mad!?! Get The One That's Been Garaged Man!

Breaking Stuff
02-26-2006, 09:37 PM
I bought a 2000 Z last year it had 22,948 on the clock, plus it was driven by an old man that had died 2 years before that. I bought it right then and there. While Im happy with my choice, I had a few problems(thank god for extended warranty), After my first oil change it had the worst case of piston slap I have ever heard. I went right back to the dealer and bitched up a storm and got all new internals. It came back after a few thousand miles but nowhere near as bad and does go away so Im happy. A few thousand miles after that the trans went out, burnt the bands on 2nd gear. I had a couple of other things happen but nothing I didnt expect on a 5 year old car. Overall I'm happy with my car Im the only one who has beat the piss out of it and I had a clean palette to start modding on. I vote for the clean car.

572ysc
03-17-2006, 09:00 AM
Buy the stock one. If you want to modify it then you can put on it what you want.

Gannet
03-17-2006, 10:48 AM
If you're going to spend 22-23 I'd bump it a few thousand and get a car with *really* low miles on it, like under 5-10k. No problem at all with $25k in the pocket.

A quick search on autotrader shows 34 01-02 TAs with under 15k miles for $26k (figure negotiating room) or less. 5 are under 5k miles. There was a '02 6-speed vert with 545 miles (no typo) just went across eBay for $25.8, no bids. There's a 01 Firehawk up now with 2800 miles for $25k. There's a silver WS6 in Texas with 275 miles, asking $28. There's a gorgeous red 01 Firehawk in Iowa with 8k for $25k. All those strike me as good deals.

My rule of thumb is one musclecar mile equals about 3 regular car miles. So I don't consider 30k miles "low". But that's just me. OTOH, I've had a lot of them over the years (I'm 51), so this is from my experience.

Woops, just saw this was an old thread. Nevermind. :)

Wyoming T/A
03-19-2006, 07:40 PM
go for the stock. Darrell, 1999 original 30th anniversary trans am #1010 19000 miles,my 4th T/A but this is my best one

blackbirdls1
03-25-2006, 05:06 PM
go for the stock, I bought my formula from a retired old man, who rarely knew anything about LS1's and didnt drive it hard

99Z28camaroman
03-26-2006, 05:38 AM
I just came back to this thread after a month or so, I see you finally got yourself a WS6 sorted. Congratulation, now can you post us all some pics so we can see your nice new car.

Cheers Andy

svtwhat?
03-28-2006, 02:22 PM
what did you end up paying for your ws6?

RedWS601
04-10-2006, 05:48 PM
Hard decision but I would go with the garaged one, because I would want to mod it myself not take the other already modded one.

TightSS
04-10-2006, 06:19 PM
Isn't it interesting how guys pick their cars just like their girls. For a girl you want a beautiful DD chested virgin with long flowing hair and legs to the moon. Similarly, you choose the supposed "virgin" car. Then you want to abuse them yourself...but if you think they've been touched........God forbid......

So you take the one that will LIE to you and tell you its a virgin....boneheads...The "unviolated" car was "female-owned" and never driven hard....Of course you've never heard of a guy that had his girl buy a car for him cause his credit stunk did you? or that a guy actually drove his girls car harder than his truck?........you are all kidding yourselves...

Sure there are virgins to be found...but you have to find them yourself...not second hand. At least the second car you know exactly what to expect.

LorcinLs1
04-10-2006, 07:49 PM
we kind of fit this well, the hawk and the ss are rarely driven. hawk has just under 20,000 and the SS has 30,000. I say if you are planning to mod the car get the one already modded. At this point if I bought the stock one, i'd leave it stock. cars are have a better demand when there still stock.

daryl2cb@yahoo.com
04-13-2006, 09:47 PM
Start fresh there is no reason to get someone elses mess.

99Z28camaroman
04-14-2006, 02:05 AM
TightSS he's gonna drive it not have sex with it! :jest:

WS6TADRIVER
05-03-2006, 08:03 PM
Gotta go with the slightly modded one...personally have the centerforce and 410's in the stock 10 bolt with no problem for 3 years now:)

Shinigami2x4
05-08-2006, 08:31 PM
If gas doesnt go down, it wont be about how many miles your car has. It will be about who can make it futherst down the street without dying. Personally, id never give up my bird but Gas is outragous...

2000SS1979
06-01-2006, 01:52 PM
The suggestion of "if it is modded then it has been abused" Just does not hold much weight for me. My father has a heavily modded 03' vette and I dont think it has even spun a tire or gone over 50 mph. his reasoning is. If I ever need the power its there. Now my 00' SS is stock and I beat the piss out of it every chance I get!

Black01M6SS
08-08-2006, 05:28 PM
My car sat up in the garage for about 2 years and probably only got started and warmed up 4-5 times. The last 8-9 months before I finished school it wasn't run at all. I got home changed the oil pulled the fuel pump relay and the coil pack wires and primed it with fresh oil. Plugged everything back in and it fired right up.

I chose the stock one. I really don't think sitting up has hurt it. Mine ran great after sitting up. The other car sounds great too but in the back of your mind you will probably always wonder about how the ower ran the car. Like someone said, people that mod cars like to drive them hard.

z-ya
08-09-2006, 05:14 PM
ya and I put 430's in my 12bolt to pull a trailer

Thule
08-13-2006, 12:00 AM
abouyt the clutch, i bougth my car from a 60 year old guy that only cruised to the ice shop on sundays, only riven 30k, and its 98 car, couple of days ago i buy the car, start to lounch it like a maniac and drift throu roundabouts, 2 days. clutch gone

1st TA
08-15-2006, 08:30 PM
I bought my 02 ws-6 w/ram air with 8000 mile on it earlier this year and paid 21500 for it. Keep looking, you will come across one with less miles for the same money. If you don't want to wait go with the stock. Good luck, I have loved every minute behind the wheel. :drive: :drive: :drive:

01Generalee
08-25-2006, 06:16 PM
stock

LS1LUNATIC
08-25-2006, 06:28 PM
I bought a 02 Z28 with 7k on the clock for 16500. There is nothing like changing your own oil for the first time of the life of a car. I have loved every minute of modding my car and the before and after results. To me there is no joy in buying somebodies toy which they already modded. Ontop of that there might be other hidden problems, but I guess that goes both ways. Go for stock, low mileage, no options=free weight reduction. Good luck