TSP duals installed, where did my ground clearance go?
#1
TSP duals installed, where did my ground clearance go?
I finished up my pacesetter LT's and TSP duals last night, other than a few problems all went well.
When hanging the mufflers I measured for ground clearance and came out with about 5" but now that it's all done I have about 3"
I'd be lucky if I could roll a pop can under the tips on it's side. My hangers are mounted a bit low as compared to the picture on this forum, it's about 2" below the sheet metal seam in that pic, I guess if I could get it hung there my clearance would be right.
But the problem is I can't really get it higher, the X is touching the cross-brace right above it. What can I do?
I didn't get to hear it much after starting but it sounds great so far, stinks though....
When hanging the mufflers I measured for ground clearance and came out with about 5" but now that it's all done I have about 3"
I'd be lucky if I could roll a pop can under the tips on it's side. My hangers are mounted a bit low as compared to the picture on this forum, it's about 2" below the sheet metal seam in that pic, I guess if I could get it hung there my clearance would be right.
But the problem is I can't really get it higher, the X is touching the cross-brace right above it. What can I do?
I didn't get to hear it much after starting but it sounds great so far, stinks though....
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But the problem is I can't really get it higher, the X is touching the cross-brace right above it. What can I do?
Also what crossbrace are you talking about?
Maybe its cause im a little drunk, but I can't think of a CROSSbrace that my X came near.
Theres that black brace that bolts onto the floorboard but I took that off.
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And that's why I had my duals fabbed... true duals can get REAL nice and close with Poly motor mounts and just a touch of frame notching... like a 1/2 inch close... I've only scraped on one bump (scrape was exactly 1/4 inch long on the X - no biggine) since I got my 3 inch circular *not oval* true duals fabbed up by Race-prep. BTW, are you lowered?
#4
It's stock ride height.
It's a well-designed system, most of it tucked up really tight to the floor boards and frame, it's just the brace above the X back it slopes down to where the tips are about 3 inchs high from the ground. Mainly because of the brace itself.
I drove it today, drives great, sounds brutal, scraped 1 time in the best buy parking lot.
It's gotta go up though. I thought about taking the thing bolted to the floor board above the X off, but figured it should be left alone. Plus the torque arm, or whatever it's called that runs back to the diff is right above it, so I would not gain much.
I thought that I may have the X on upside down, mine was not marked so I just had to look at it and guess.
But as I look at it it seems like it would be worse flipped over.
I will say i'm impressed with the system otherwise, the headers are nice, went in well, except I can't get the bolt all the way back on the drivers side to thread all the way back in, so I put some washers on it and threaded it in till it was tight as a shim, so it's atleast holding. seems like it's cross threaded but I didn't torque it in there weird at all, came out all right...
I ordered my headers with EGR and air, in case I ever need to add cats, that all is a wreck since pacestter decided to put the fittings in slightly different spots, but my air lines are hooked up and working. I had to cut the EGR line off the stock manifold cuz I could'nt get access to undo it, so I unplugged the valve/pump thing and made block off plates for it and the header fitting.
I now have a check engine light on, could this be from me unplugging the EGR valve/pump?
It's a well-designed system, most of it tucked up really tight to the floor boards and frame, it's just the brace above the X back it slopes down to where the tips are about 3 inchs high from the ground. Mainly because of the brace itself.
I drove it today, drives great, sounds brutal, scraped 1 time in the best buy parking lot.
It's gotta go up though. I thought about taking the thing bolted to the floor board above the X off, but figured it should be left alone. Plus the torque arm, or whatever it's called that runs back to the diff is right above it, so I would not gain much.
I thought that I may have the X on upside down, mine was not marked so I just had to look at it and guess.
But as I look at it it seems like it would be worse flipped over.
I will say i'm impressed with the system otherwise, the headers are nice, went in well, except I can't get the bolt all the way back on the drivers side to thread all the way back in, so I put some washers on it and threaded it in till it was tight as a shim, so it's atleast holding. seems like it's cross threaded but I didn't torque it in there weird at all, came out all right...
I ordered my headers with EGR and air, in case I ever need to add cats, that all is a wreck since pacestter decided to put the fittings in slightly different spots, but my air lines are hooked up and working. I had to cut the EGR line off the stock manifold cuz I could'nt get access to undo it, so I unplugged the valve/pump thing and made block off plates for it and the header fitting.
I now have a check engine light on, could this be from me unplugging the EGR valve/pump?
#5
I also wanna mention I got the headers in without removing a spark plug or messing with the engine mount or steering linkage. It was tight, and I actually had to tap the drivers side past the firewall, but it popped through
Overall the complete install took me 2 long days, and probably about 20 hours, i'm a n00b, but learned and got it done, more or less the right way.
Overall the complete install took me 2 long days, and probably about 20 hours, i'm a n00b, but learned and got it done, more or less the right way.
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Originally Posted by GTObsessor
And that's why I had my duals fabbed... true duals can get REAL nice and close with Poly motor mounts and just a touch of frame notching... like a 1/2 inch close... I've only scraped on one bump (scrape was exactly 1/4 inch long on the X - no biggine) since I got my 3 inch circular *not oval* true duals fabbed up by Race-prep. BTW, are you lowered?
Last edited by 99Hawk262; 01-14-2006 at 05:36 PM.
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When i did my true duals i screwed up the first time hanggin the tubes because i still had the car on stands from the header install. After i pulled them off again i just jacked up the front and kept the rear down and put the x pipe like a 1/2 to 1/4 from the torque arm. I got like 5 inches at my lowest point and that is the pipe on the driver side. My mufflers are even higher than that. The only thing is i will have to lower the exhaust if i need to hang the rear end down. Oh yeah had that same problem with the back bolt. I did not want to cross thread so i took all the other bolts off and started the back first and all the others went in fine. I kept wanting to just thread it in but luckily read all the horror stories on here about installing a heli coil when you cross thread a bolt.
Last edited by THE CHOP SHOP; 01-14-2006 at 08:54 PM. Reason: add in
#10
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Originally Posted by lowchevy2go
my true duals scrape on every speed bump, i have pacesetter lt's bolted to them, and my car is stock ride height....I love the sound but it sux...
omg le gay.. hope it works out for ya man.
Last edited by Rescue Ranger; 01-16-2006 at 07:34 PM.
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I am lowered and have tsp duals. This is what I did:
Get a new torque arm. I got a edelbrock from summit racing. This freed up a bunch of space.
Do not use the u-pipe clamps that tsp supplies. They are too thick. I bought some better ex. pipe clamps from summit.
Flip the fuel line brackets.
Leave the ex. clamps unbolted and place a floor jack under the x-pipe and lift the system up as high a possible and then bolt the clamps and bullet mufflers under the rear seats. You will need an assistant to assist with the hanger install.
I found a few inches by banging (w/rubber hammer) the area on both sides on the driveshaft tunnel and the area inder where the muffler brackets bolt up.
System does not scrape and I am lowered 1.5in. I am cautious of where I drive and do some manuvering when I see areas of road that look bumpy. I also don't let fat chicks ride with me
Get a new torque arm. I got a edelbrock from summit racing. This freed up a bunch of space.
Do not use the u-pipe clamps that tsp supplies. They are too thick. I bought some better ex. pipe clamps from summit.
Flip the fuel line brackets.
Leave the ex. clamps unbolted and place a floor jack under the x-pipe and lift the system up as high a possible and then bolt the clamps and bullet mufflers under the rear seats. You will need an assistant to assist with the hanger install.
I found a few inches by banging (w/rubber hammer) the area on both sides on the driveshaft tunnel and the area inder where the muffler brackets bolt up.
System does not scrape and I am lowered 1.5in. I am cautious of where I drive and do some manuvering when I see areas of road that look bumpy. I also don't let fat chicks ride with me
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the mistake most ppl make(i did) is that they attempt to mount the duals with the rear axle hangin, forgetting about it goin back up when the car is on the ground. i hve like 1 in of clearance at the tips cause of that mistake. im rehangin it very soon to collect it, and with the measurements ive made , i should be able to get at least 3 1/2 to 4 in clearance at the tips.
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Originally Posted by 99Hawk262
AMEN to that. I know the TSP duals are a quality product, but my custom duals tuck so nicely. I have so much more clearance than when the exhaust was stock.
#14
Well, I played with it again and wound up with almost a vertical pop can of clearance at the tips, but now it's so high infront of the X it's lightly tapping the floor board under the drivers seat, but it seems to be going away as I drive, i'll go mess with it some more and see what I can do. I still wanna get under there and tighten the hell out of the band clamps so I don't have to worry about leaks or it all falling apart, not that it's likely.
I'm blown away by the sound this thing puts out, it's the best sounding car i've ever heard in person, and it's well-mannered on the road, whisper-quite cruising and demon-like when opened up.
I also love the "snarl" when shifting or letting off after a good hit, great stuff.
I'm blown away by the sound this thing puts out, it's the best sounding car i've ever heard in person, and it's well-mannered on the road, whisper-quite cruising and demon-like when opened up.
I also love the "snarl" when shifting or letting off after a good hit, great stuff.