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tru-trac and turning questions

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Old 01-26-2006, 07:23 PM
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Default tru-trac and turning questions

when driving on the streets and say your turning onto a street. you start to make your right for example and accelerate during the turn. what does your tru trac do? its hard for me to explain what mine is doing, but i wanna see if thats just how it is. i know posi's arent going to be anything like a LSD but should it still hop and vibrate like that?
Old 01-26-2006, 08:25 PM
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the tru-trac is a detroit locker type differential, right? if so yeah its supposed to make a little noise. should sound kind of like clicking or ratcheting
Old 01-26-2006, 09:14 PM
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yeah, i think thats what im getting. thanks.
Old 01-26-2006, 09:18 PM
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Mine does the same thing. I've found that if I'm a little easier on the throttle until I get more straightened out it's much smoother. If I give it too much throttle on a tight turn as you're describing it feels like my buddies old Monte Carlo with a spool. IMHO it's as though the TruTrac is locking both axles sooner than I'm used to.
Old 01-26-2006, 10:13 PM
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ok, then its not just me. GOOD!!! How long did you all wait till you got on it? i wanna make it to the track by the 3rd of feb. i just got it in about 2 days ago..should i?
Old 01-27-2006, 04:10 PM
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I gave mine 200 miles of granny driving. Doing short distances (10-15 miles) and letting it cool off in between. That's what I was told to do to properly heat cycle the gears and start a healthy wear pattern. From 200-300 miles I did most of the same, but I would go maybe 10-20 miles. After 300-350 miles on the rear it was time to feel it out... First few times I rolled into the throttle from about 20mph. I had between 400-450 miles before I dropped the clutch on it. What a feeling. Both tires spinnging hard and the added pull from 4.11s was great. I'm still playing with all the suspension settings to get them right.

The builder of my 3rd member told me 200-300 miles. I've heard of people doing less, I've heard of people doing more. For me it was a matter of making damn sure everything was done 110%. IMHO with as much as these rears cost it's worth the added piece of mind for the extra break in miles.

As far as a Feb 3rd track day, I'd say if you can get a 200-300 miles on it go for it!
Old 01-27-2006, 05:49 PM
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damn, i guess ive alot of driving to do!
Old 01-28-2006, 12:56 AM
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Tru trac wouldn't be used for autoxing them right?
Old 01-28-2006, 01:25 AM
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no way! is it me or is the 9" supposed to emmit so much noise? ive got a chassis mounted TA, but after the 9" install, i can feel the roads BAD!! and it just vibrates the whole damn inside!
Old 01-28-2006, 04:40 AM
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"Tru trac wouldn't be used for autoxing them right?"

Darn, I was hoping it was the answer for high HP autox cars. Guess I'll stick with the T2R till it breaks and keep on 10-bolting it.
Old 01-28-2006, 05:11 AM
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Question

Originally Posted by Viper
"Tru trac wouldn't be used for autoxing them right?"

Darn, I was hoping it was the answer for high HP autox cars. Guess I'll stick with the T2R till it breaks and keep on 10-bolting it.
Viper, why not a 12-bolt with an Eaton posi?
Old 01-28-2006, 05:26 AM
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Nino, I'm glad to see you got your car back on the road. Make sure the Moser torque arm bracket on top of the rear isn't making contact with the chassis, which could be some of the noise and vibration you are hearing and feeling. I'd get as many miles as you can on it before you get on it hard, as has been mentioned. 500 miles is the recommendation, meaning, a lot of cruising... Bob
Old 01-28-2006, 02:04 PM
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do i bang up the chassis or grind the bracket? my abs inop light is still coming on, even when im not braking. is there a certain way the sensor is supposed to sit in there?
Old 01-28-2006, 08:41 PM
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The tru-track is the solution for a 12bolt autoxer, it is NOT like a detroit locker, it is a stronger version of the torsen. My unit is more streetable than the T2r in my 10bolt. it also live behind 5k clutch drops on ET Streets. There are no hopping, or noises from the diff. The detroit locker is a ratchet system and is not for autox, as it goes from an open diff to a spool when power is applied, dramaticaly changing the handleing of the car mid corner.
Old 01-29-2006, 09:54 AM
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really? mine makes all sorts of noises when i turn and accelerate.
Old 01-29-2006, 04:39 PM
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Maybe verify the fluid that should be used with it?
Old 01-29-2006, 05:43 PM
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moser said 80w-90 non synthetic.
Old 01-29-2006, 07:38 PM
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Great thread about the tru-trac

http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums...6&page=2&pp=40
Old 01-29-2006, 08:13 PM
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ninoborn99 I'm using 85w140 synthetic FWIW. I assume you have 4 channel ABS with your 9", if that's the case and you have screw in wheel studs, they are your problem. The magnetic sensors that bolt to the backing plates need to be shimmed out because the bolt heads of the studs are creating their own magnetic field and fking up the readings. Ask me how I know!!!
Old 01-29-2006, 08:18 PM
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instead of asking how you know, how about telling me how to fix it you know its funny you mention that cause the abs has been giving me problems. what size spacers or shimms? can u explain a bit more?



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