OverLord

Okay i need know some things. I know that a h/c swap on these cars does wonders. But i see alot of cam only cars around here makeing very close to 400 hp. with full bolt on. I also see alot of used cams on this site being sold for less 400 dollors, are they the good ones or what? i mean thats perrty cheap and a good hp gain, or am i missing sumthing here?


see this what i was thinking, do full bolton and get cam. Save for a bolt, build the engine a bit so it can handel a around 600 hp (never plan on makeing over 550) and then put on a 100-150 shot (more than liky a 100) and make very close to 500 hp with the 100 and lil over 500 if i go 150.

So what am i missing.

KrazyDan

i wouldnt buy a used cam. you will need forced induction and nitrous to get 600 hp.

OverLord

i don't plan on going that high, i wanna stay under 450 or even 400 for a lil while (3 years) than i might go higher, and whats teh problems with used cams? And how would a new once cost?

jrp

iTrader: (16)

there's absolutely nothing wrong with used cams; i've bought two of them, an old mti T1 and a tr230. just follow the advice i laid out in the cam guide; ask for serial numbers and/or markings and a cam card if possible.

600hp at the crank is around 500rwhp through a t56. a cam and bolt on setup w/ the 100+ shot can hit that quite readily. 500hp at the crank is around 420rwhp through a t56. that can be reached with a fairly large cam and all the bolt ons.

OverLord

cool, well i was just hopeing to see sumthing liek 380-390 n/a and thanks for the heads up.

blkZ28spt

Keep in mind that there is more invovled in a cam swap than the cam itself. Springs, pushrods, retainers, tune, install, possibly oil pump and timing chain.

You can easily get a brand new cam for $400.

OverLord

yea thats what i wanted to know, how much would it cost to acullty get a cam swap into my car. is it even worth it going only cam to save some money? thanks for the help.

blkZ28spt

You mean cam only versus heads and cam? Cam only, with full bolt ons, is a very economical level to modify your car to. How much it costs depends on what parts you get to go with it, who tunes it and who installs it.

Search and read the stickies, there is a ton of info available.

IMO it is very worthwhile to go cam only. I don't plan to touch my heads for a long time. I spent just over $1,000 for my cam, springs (withseats, seals, retainers), pushrods, timing chain, and oil pump. I installed it all myself in my gargage (mostly thanks to www.ls1howto.com) and had it dyno tuned by Speed Inc (usually runs about $450). Total cost to me, including a tool or two I didn't have but needed for the swap, was about $1,550.

Joel_SS

iTrader: (8)

Do you have an A4 or M6>?

Lucas'02SS

iTrader: (4)

Only doing a cam for now would be fine, and definately worth it. I would install it yourself. I installed a cam with my friend in his TA. It is hard, but it's great experience for you, helps you get to know your car better, and saves you some $$$.

OverLord

Im a4, so i will probly get a stall. Also will i even need a 12 bolt if im makeing under 450?

And anymore budget info would be great thanks.

blkZ28spt

Get a converter before putting a cam in. Do some research and get a converter with a stall speed that matches the powerband of the cam you intend to purchase. You will want to know what size cam and converter you want before buying either one.

Autos are much easier on the rear when launching than the manuals are. It should hold up.

The transmission, on the other hand, is something you will need to keep an eye.

OverLord

Which transmission would you say would be a good way to go, for the power im looking to make, which less 450, for while.

01RedT/A

does a t56 generally lose 20% of power?! thats horribly inefficient. ive learned that in most cases manual transmissions chew up 10-12 % and autos can be upwards of 15%. look at this graph of a stock c6 (claimed at 400 horse and 400 tq)



its making 347.9 hp to the wheels, thats a 13% loss through a t56.

blkZ28spt

Notice the "claimed". You can't make an accurate judgement based on their claims. You should know this. After all, LS1 F-bodies rated at 305-335 will often dyno 300+ rwhp.

Autos will eat a little more power than manuals, but in a drag race a properly setup auto will normally win. Stalled auto > manual at the strip.