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What's considered "full" bolt ons?

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Old 02-23-2006, 07:35 PM
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Default What's considered "full" bolt ons?

What all do I need to be able to say I have "full" bolt-ons? Mods in sig are where I am currently...
Old 02-23-2006, 07:42 PM
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Id say your just about there, lid,tb,intake,headers,y,catback,gears,pulley.
Old 02-23-2006, 07:44 PM
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im running out of easy things to do

Last edited by HowellSoccer88; 02-23-2006 at 09:59 PM.
Old 02-23-2006, 10:16 PM
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Ported TB.
Old 02-23-2006, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Lithium
Ported TB.
added to list of things to do...new era will be hearing from me soon. anything else you guys can think of that are considered bolt ons that im missing?
Old 02-23-2006, 10:34 PM
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I guess you're there, but there's always the FAST intake and TB. You already have the LS6 intake so technically your covered. FTRA or SLP ram air is about the only mod I don't see in your sig that would be needed to complete full bolt-ons.
Old 02-23-2006, 11:02 PM
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"If it doesn't touch oil it's a bolt-on . . . . . . . "
Old 02-24-2006, 12:00 AM
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if ur an auto a stall converter
Old 02-24-2006, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by HowellSoccer88
What all do I need to be able to say I have "full" bolt-ons? Mods in sig are where I am currently...
Difficult one as every one has a different opinion of full bolt on?

I mean is a ported TB and LS6 intake the same as a FAST 90/90 setup? in terms of bolt on'sih mod. I think so, but the 90/90 has the ability to make more power.

In my mind anything that does not require internal engine work should be considered a bolt on.

However I wouldn't perhaps do all of them, as some are detrimental to other mods.

But I guess a 12 bolt rear and gear swap along with wheels and DR's are all technically bolt ons. As are all the chassis, suspension and brake upgrades that are available. Torque converter and tranny cooler. Any intake or exhaust mods. Electric water pump or pulley.

The grey area is when you get to FI or nitrous, is a ProCharger a bolt on?? Yes it may be FI, but the engine internals are not needed to be touched. So you could still have a totoally stock LONG block but with bolt ons and a blower and have 550rwhp. I guess that it then is technically a bolt on.
Old 02-24-2006, 01:35 PM
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Yep, FAST and TB plus an electric water pump are about all you have left. If you want to get real picky you could add something like fast toys ram air, manual fan switch, and MSD coil packs, that is all I can think of!

I race the EFA bolt on class, and sure, anything you bolt on could be considered a "bolt on" but the class is no power adder, and nothing that touches oil can be changed. Everything else is fair game.

Ed
Old 02-24-2006, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by HowellSoccer88
What all do I need to be able to say I have "full" bolt-ons? Mods in sig are where I am currently...
Looking at your mods, it looks like you are almost there. Add a cutout to your exhaust, port your throttle body or get a 90/90 combo, get an electric water pump, SFC's & drag radials and I think you can proudly say you have "full bolt-ons." Basically a bolt-on is anything that can be "bolted on." It doesn't include internals/valvetrain like heads & cam or FI like nitrous, turbo or a blower.
Old 02-24-2006, 09:45 PM
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hmm...electric water pump never even crossed my mind. can someone maybe point me in the direction of a quality one? also what kind or gains would I see from the swap?
Old 02-24-2006, 09:53 PM
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T-bryne has them, all the sponsors. The are like $550 and gain around 5HP, also saves a little weight. Be careful running it on the street, I know guys who do, but if the motor goes you loose all cooling. If the temp gauge goes up, shut it down LOL!
Old 02-24-2006, 09:58 PM
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i was told not to worry about an electric water pump...but i do track runs once in a while and my motor isnt just bolt-ons...if you wanna run at the track or race on the highway a lot dont worry about it...if it (electric pump motor) overheats your done...but then again racing a motor isnt the best thing for it usually and your taking a risk either way...but there is just a good a chance of the electric pump working fine....i look at it as the alternator has to provide more power to make up for the more electronics you run either way its a negligible gain/loss....
Old 02-24-2006, 10:01 PM
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No power adder (FI or N20) is a bolt on.


When someone says full bolt ons what I think of is full exhaust (headers, y, cutout or catback or headers/duals), CAI or "ram air", lid, ported throttle body, LS6 or better intake, underdrive pulley, gears if manual (clutch opt) or converter if auto (gears opt) and perhaps a dyno tune as well.

There are other bolt ons, but that is what I think of because they more common and give a good return on your money. You could also get things such as an EWP, full suspension, weight reduction....
Old 02-24-2006, 10:18 PM
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so whats the consensus as far as the electric water pump goes? this is a DD that sees moderate track time...
Old 02-25-2006, 08:17 AM
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I wouldn't worry aboyt the EWP

True duals!
Old 02-25-2006, 08:34 AM
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don't worry about the water pump right now, spend you money om other things.
Old 02-25-2006, 12:03 PM
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The gains with a FAST 90/90 probably arent worht the grand the thing costs if you dont plan on doing a cam, the LS6 Intake is more than enough for the stock internals. I say cut-out, electric water pump, and a lil more suspension and your good. You could always get into the lightweight flywheel/driveshaft stuff to get some extra HP too.
Old 02-25-2006, 12:07 PM
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Time For That Shot!!


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