SmaknaSS

iTrader: (1)

I ordered a 160* thermostate from a performance vender and installed it 8 months ago, I drove around all this winter but never seen the coolent temps go below 180* in my car, even in colder weather of 40-50* I only get down to 180* readings with EFI Live, I called the vender who sold me the thermo and explained that my coolent only get's down to 180* at the most, but they said they only sell 160* thermostats and that I't was normal for a thermo to only operate down to 180*, I have installed many thermostats but never checked it against a scanner, did I get a defective thermostate? should I find a better operating unit? I want to operate in the 160* to 185* coolent range due to the fact that when the outside temps get above 185* I get 2* of KR at 28* advance WOT now that the weather is warming up, I tried to dump more feul at WOT but I still get a little KR now, I do have an SLP lid,cold air induction and TB by pass mod, what do y'all think? is the thermo somewhat defective? does any one of these venors sell any 160* thermo's that actually operate in the 160* to 180* range instead of a 160* that oprates in the 180* to 200* range? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> sorry this is soo long and thanx in advance. <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" />

SmaknaSS

iTrader: (1)

By the way, I left the SLP fan switch on high in cold weather and still only goes down to 180*. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> is that normal? or is it <img border="0" alt="[bullshit]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bs.gif" /> ?

johnster

iTrader: (27)

I have a hypertech 160 and it reads 170 to 182.It is in the 70 and 80 out side here in good O Tenn.

johnster

iTrader: (27)

I have a hypertech 160 and it reads 170 to 182.It is in the 70 and 80 out side here in good O Tenn.

glitch77

Hopefully I can explain:

My 98 Z28 has a 160° stat in it and it runs about 170 on really cool days, and about 185 on hot days.

Its not just putting in a 160° stat that does the cooling, its the radiator itself. If the radiator cant get rid of any more heat than 180°, then 180° is what your stuck with. SLP makes a larger radiator, which would probably cool the LS1s better, but still, you may not see an even 160°. I cant say for sure (who could) that it is deffinatly not a defective stat, but I wouldnt count on it. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

CMNTMXR57

All that means is that the T-Stat opens at 160 degrees. In the majority of cases, if it opens at that temp, usually it can then maintain it from therein out. Unfortunately that is not the case in our cars. They open at 160, then maintain 180'ish. I think mine is around 183 at all times.

CMNTMXR57

You don't need too! I'm a heads/cam motor and I still have the stock radiator, fans, and everything else, except t-stat. In the PCM programming, I have the low speed fan coming on at 180 and the high speed at 185. I also just bought an SLP switch so that I can manually control it if I want to.

Otherwise, on a bolt-on engine, there shouldn't be any need other than you *wanting* to upgrade.

killer01ws6

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> so here is what I am getting out of what I have read on these posts:
*** by purchasing the 160* thermostat you will see a SLIGHT lowering in your temp BUT to truly optimize this you must also get better fans or even replace the radiator.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No our cooling parts are good enough unless you do
something wicked with the engine. the 160 helps
and having your fans come on sooner is all else you need to do. you can do this with programing
mine is fan 1 on at 184f/ off at 175f
fan 2 on at 194f off at 185f.
you can go with a manual switch or the parts stores sell a adjustable therm switch, if you are only going to addjust fans. I went with the predator for the fans, and the pwr tuning, along with the diag and reset of codes ability. If you don't need these items go with a switch <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

cueball

pwrtrip,your right,in 98 the gauge was right on
and they changed in 99 for the reason you said
and it is pritty close,it operates in 20 degree
incorments to slow the movement of the needle.

and you can cut the spring enough to where it is just snug, that will let it open a little sooner
i did it to my stat and it worked for a few more
degrees,no problems yet,did it about two years ago
just something else to try to get every little bit out of your engine
hope that helps some <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

PWRTRIP

that felt awesome to actuall GIVE some info instead of asking for it all the time!! woohoo..thanks for backing up my answer <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

cueball

if you had an external temp gauge in a pod,or a place in your dash to read an accurate temp.
you could unhook your ect sensor and put a 350 - 400 ohms resister in the wire conector to tell the pcm a temp of about 160 - 170 degrees
and use the temp gauge in the pod for your temp.
it could be dangerous so whatch for detination
or kn,kr
with that mod you would probobly need to put atleast 93+ octane fuel in and put a 160 stat
and maybe that mod i posted earlier to your stat

i have a OHMS RESISTANCE vrs. TEMP. referince
chart if someone needs one just e-mail me and i will try to send one to you
it has all of the ohms to temp tables on it
and since all of the temp sensors on all gm cars are the same this chart will work for all the temp sensors you will need to mod (IAT,ECT,OILTEMP,TRANSTEMP,ect...)

WS6 GreeN

I didn't think it would do any good using a 160 degree stat until you set your fans to operate at a lower temp? I guess either way, every little bit helps.

cueball

sorry,forgot to say, the ect sensor also runs you fans,so if you do that mod your fans wont come on
you have to turn them on manuly or get a
thermo switch to run your fans unless you figure out how to rig it better
i am not sure if the 98's fans run on the temp gauge circuit or the pcm circuit

SmaknaSS

iTrader: (1)

Thanx for the info guys, has anyone tried drilling out the bypass hole in the thermostate? If so how well does it work? If I can keep my temps down to 170*-185* I would Be happy, I want to run 28* timing WOT w/out any KR. Thanx again. <img border="0" alt="[shoot]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" /> (KR) Next mods: SLP raidiater, red line water wetter and possibly a new thermo.

PWRTRIP

a couple of questions about this: is it worth it then? and 2- if you use ls1edit, can't you program the car to open up at 160 and therfore you would not have to purchase the thermostat?

CMNTMXR57

The more aggressive you want to get with fuel and ignition curves and especially if you have a heads/cam, blower, turbo, N20 car, the better off you are.

What would need to be seen is what temp the system would maintain if you had a 180* in vs. 160*. If it maintains virtually the same, you could get away with a 180. Otherwise to be sure, I'd go 160.

Keep in mind, the only job a T-stat does is open up to allow coolant to flow back into the radiator. Hence a 180 degree T-stat won't open till 180* and conversely, a 160 will open 20* sooner.

From there, how the system maintains it is up to how good the system is.

killer01ws6

PWRTRIP
no pcm programing is going to change the temp the therm opens it is mechanical. that is way you have to change it, but if you dont change the fans then you are not going to see a drop either. and for this you do need something that will reprogram you pcm. I went with the predator.

Hope this helps <img border="0" alt="[driving]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_driving3.gif" />

BlueSS

Sorry I'm new to this T-stat subject... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> How do you guys know your carz are running at 180* or 183* does your guage read that or do you check it with sumthing else? I have a 160* stat on my 99 SS and my guage barely reads under 210* I have my fan setting set for a 160* with hypertech, my fans come off and on does that mean that my car is cooling down more than wut my guage reads??? thanx in advance... <img border="0" alt="[driving]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_driving3.gif" />

CMNTMXR57

By using a scan tool such as AutoTap, EFI Live, LS1Edit, or a GM Tech2 scanner.

Your factory gauge is highly inaccurate and only serves as nothing more than an idiot light. As long as it's not close to that red zone, you're fine type of things. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

PWRTRIP

I had heard that the 98's are pretty accurate but it "scared" owners seeing it fluctuate so much so the 99s + you won't see move much and are pretty much useless and an idiot light...right or wrong? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />