m-port-h8r

I ordered an SLP Flo-pac yesterday... did I just waste a bunch of money? I'm new to the site and started doing some research today (after I ordered it from Summit ). My car came with a Flowmaster and a K&N and these are the only known mods on this car. So far im reading the bellows and the K&n are no good, the lid is decent.... but what about the stainless steel scoop on a RAM AIR car. Does it defeat the purpose of the stock ram air effect or will it help some

Should I call to cancel my order and just get the lid? Or if I receive it can I keep the lid and send everything else back, or just install the whole kit.

Sorry to sound like such a newbie (yes I read the 13 page newbie mistake post topic )

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

just get the lid, take one of the baffels out of your ram air hood, the flowmaster sucks.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

well then you should know your answer.

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

You can also seal the nostrils to the air box by using some foam insulation (if you want to) then add a catback, and that is usually the first mods people do
For the catback, go to www.ls1sounds.com and pick the one you like the sound of

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

Flowmasters may not flow good, but I love the sound...

I say keep the flowmaster, and just add a cut out for when you want power..

m-port-h8r

I agree. I don't mind the sound, hey it came with the car so it was free. I guess I'm getting old, I think the Loudmouths are too loud. I've had a lot of compliments on the Flows. When it rusts out I'll look into something else, GMMC perhaps.

I guess my question was answered. I think I need to call Summit back up and come up with an excuse of why I need to return it...

BanditTA

iTrader: (3)

SLP's lid is actually one of the best flowing; there was a magazine test a few years ago on it. Here’s how i look at it, the bellow can't hurt especially over the corrugated factory piece which helps to cancel sound waves, and sound from an intake is awesome. The only thing the scoop will hurt is weight but its advantage is drawing "colder" air than the free air mod would, of coarse not by much though. Also it’s GMMG

m-port-h8r

Whoops my bad, I have fat fingers
I would guess on a non Ram Air car it would prove to be a benefit, I just wasn't sure on a WS6 or SS. Again, I'm sure up for debate, if that these cars actually make a ram air effect.
So on a RAM AIR car, the free ram air mod will not hurt to try either? (FRA means you cut out the bottom the air box... correct) It isn't going to like redirect air flow OUT through the nostrils of the hood, or opposite, circulate air around my washer reservoir ? In one hole, out the other If I keep the CAI scoop, that would just basically extend that opening to under the car. I think I read somewhere that the CAI wasn't recommended for SS or WS6 cars.

In the end, if it is only money wasted, big whoop I kissed $200-$300. I haven't spent a dime on this car for performance yet (never felt the need to, I love these cars! ) As long as I don’t hurt performance or ruin the car

SLP Flo-pac is my first mod, so we'll see what happens. I also think I'll foam seal the hood to the air box, that sounded like a good idea. If anyone has this on their Ram Air car, please chime in and tell me what you think

Again, I'm very new here. I'm trying to read up as much as I can. There is a lot of info on this site. I apologize if I'm asking stupid "common knowledge" questions

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

The ram air for either SS/WS6/Firehawk doesnt do hardly *anything* FRA and FTRA will help you out the most.

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

Well it does make a bit of a difference (more of a cold air induction than a true "ram air") I notice it especially if the air temp is in the 40s (might be just in my head), but either the FRA or the baffle deletion airbox sealing will provide a colder intake charge than nothing.
If you get HPtuners(or some other tuning program) that does live monitoring, check your inlet temp, with sealing the hood, and debaffling, you can see a noticable decrease in the temp (cold air = more HP)

m-port-h8r

Here is another mistake that I think I may or may not have made. When I bought my car used in 2002 (from a dealer) it didn't have the Ram Air decal on the lid, it has the coolant decal. I was doing some research and found out that I don't have the WS6 air box (the raised one) So this week I ordered one from a local Pontiac dealer for $115, to get the factory Ram Air effect (if there is such a thing). I was looking at the Fast Toys Ram air kit and it looks like they sealed off the inlet of the box. Will I have to do that if I use the SLP CAI (I also found their SLP CAI upgrade kit)? So that would mean I would have to seal up the raised air box, or put the shorter one back on for less of a gap to seal. Or would a better option be to seal the hood to the raised air box and not worry about sealing the air box to the FRA / CAI.

I'm getting confused.

What would be the best option

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

I'd seal the hood, you've got the raised air box, the nostrils in the hood, you might as well make use of them, rather than spending the cash on the SLP CAI, use what you got, and mod it to work, for alot less than the SLP stuff (in case you haven't figured it out I'm a cheap SOB I hate spending lots of money, when I can spend a little and get the same thing)
So seal the hood, and don't bother with the FRA/CAI

m-port-h8r

Thanks 2K2WS6TA, I'll take your advice. I'll return my Summit package, get the lid, scrounge up some foam to seal the hood to the box, and for kicks and grins go to Home Depot and do the Fernco tube thing. I would rather have the hood do what it was suppose to be designed for. Total savings: about $170

Can anyone point me in the direction of some pics of somebody’s Ram Air sealed hood and which baffles taken out?

Thanks again!!
-Chris

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

Google brian greene ram air, (altho this is no longer made) it should give you some pics of it (basically this is what you are duplicating)