ThrottleHappy7

With a budget of around $2,000, what are the best options to go with. I have somewhat of an idea of what I want to do. I know exhaust, intake, etc, but what's the best and cheapest without sacrificing quality? I'm a do-it-yourselfer, so I don't mind a little work. All ideas are welcome.

And, if you have a set up that is working for you that is within this budget please share, thanks.

Priest

With $2k, I would suggest a heads/cam and supporting mods. Lloyd Elliot will port and polish your heads toss in a cam for $1100(well, you'll need to do the work). With a few supporting mods(injectors, TB, exhaust, etc) is good for at least 370rwhp.

I can't find his website right now, but I know someone up here has the link.

BlazerINtheWork

iTrader: (7)

you doing the work yourself or a shop? you can save a LOT of $$$ doing it yourself. i agree with preiest tho, get that setup and a new converter(a4) or clutch(m6)

ThrottleHappy7

I would like to do as much of the work myself as possible but if I can't get access to the propper tools and place to do it I may have to find somebody to do some of the work. I know I can do air induction, exhaust, throttle body, and MAF censor, but doing heads and cam I may have to have somebody else do it. As before, input is welcomed.

Another question, has anyone had good results from chips and programmers?

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

dont get a handheld programmer get a custom tune! pcmforless.com or madz28.com can hook you up. definatly get the exhaust done before you make the internals breath better, aftef that if you have the funding get a H/C package, priest has the right idea, heres llyods web site eportworks.com

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

-oyea get the tune after everything else!

M29_Formula

$2000 budget...

Hooker Catback - $250
K&N FIPK - $250
Hooker Super Comp LT headers, O/R Y-pipe, 02 accessories - $900
Lakewood Industries Rear Control Arms - $100
PCMForless Tune - $150
TPiS Airfoil - $50
March Underdrive Pulley & Belt - $120
Pro-5.0 PowerTower Shifter - $150

And you've got $30 left over to do an oil change or put some gas in it. Should run a low 13 @ ~105 if you can drive it.

After all these mods, definitely look into a set of gears. 3.73s or 4.10s. Try and get the T/A rear cover/girdle and the main cap stud kit with it too so you can strengthen up that weak 10-bolt as much as possible.

94Z396

Talk to Loyd Elliott his website is www.eportworks.com Pacesetter LT's, Stall coverter for auto or clutch for 6speed. And the rest of the supporting mods for Heads and Cam!

luckyou03

iTrader: (8)

gets the heads, cam package with pcm4less tune and 30# injectors.

Forget the bigger throttle bodies, underdrive pulleys, airfoil and catbacks..

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (1)

go with www.eportworks.com, and get the bolt ons he says you need. You can save money by getting a $30 cutout instead of a $300 catback.

M29_Formula

All you guys suggesting the H/C packages obviously aren't taking into consideration that it requires supporting mods and also gets it's "advertised" power gains from a bolt-on car.

IF I was going to do an LE2 package, not only would I spend $1700 on the setup, but I'd also need injectors ($300), a reflash ($50), probably a fuel pump ($100), pushrods ($150), a new timing set ($200), a bigger TB ($300), and a new Opti-spark since I'd be getting removed anyway and would be necessary to cope with the high revving cam ($450). So that's what, about $1600 on top of the H/C package just to get it put together the right way. Say he has no bolt-ons whatsoever -- you aren't going to see that magic 400whp number advertised by LE.

It's not AS rewarding, but smarter to buy simple mods first, build a solid driveline & suspension setup, and then do a big mod like H/C or a supercharger. A fast car isn't a fast car if it's broken.

ThrottleHappy7

I'm looking at doing a setup that will run strong on the street, being that that's where I'll spend 95% of my driving, and maybe once in a while go to a track. If I get lucky I'll find something that might have had some stuff done, if not, then I'll be working on a blank canvas, so to speak. I don't mind working with a stocker, to some degree I would actually prefer it. Either way, I'll be happy.

87turbo2

iTrader: (-1)

Get some gears!! You can get a nice difference with those. 3.73 for an auto, 4.10's for the M6. I have a LT4 set up in my car, most people dont like it and the hotcam, so they ditch it though. I have no fuel upgrades, stock converter and 3.73, high 12's at gainesville.

I would get lloyds le1, http://www.eportworks.com/LT1LE1.htm, that's 1100.00, I got my pacesetter lt's and ory for 410 shipped from azracing.com. Stil have 500 left, get a 52mm tb, a cai, and then just get a cutout or have a shop bend you an exhaust ( i have an exhaust shop catback, sounds great, looks good and cost about 150 with nice tips on it )

So for $2000, you can easily have 350+rwhp. Save a little more and get some gears later, especially if its an auto.


But what do I know, I'm trying to sell my whole damn car for 4,000

omaha stylee

Agreed 100% do all the supporting stuff first....... whats the point of heads and cam if the car can't breath? headers, CAI, shift kit, TIRES ARE IMPORTANT, etc.... lots of things to take into consideration, i do not suggest a heads and cam package yet......

ThrottleHappy7

Here's a question, for those who have modified, either to the extreme or slightly, how is gas mileage and driveability, just out of curiosity.

2000GTP

iTrader: (3)

With just some bolt-ons, being exhaust and intake mainly, my gas mileage has actually increased a little bit. Also, for your original question, I would do the supporting mods. first before diving into a heads/cam package. Two grand will be enough to cover all your supporting mods.