slick1851

Ok since no one is the DSM world has sprat setups, and there all scared of it im going to do one since a good freind of mine went low 11s on a small turbo and the car looked dead stock on a side mount intercooler.


There has been a few T25 cars, to go high 11s and a little back ground on the crappy stock turbo for the 2G cars, the fastest cars barly could go mid 13s and thats pushing it on the factory junker boost only.

I have a built bottum end, and a mildly done top end the car has HKS cams,Weisco Pistons with compression bumped up to 9:1( factory is 7:5 somthing low)


Now heres my problem, Ive heard that with a perfect AF ratio people with turbo cars can blow up since you need to CHECK THE PLUGs all the time. The AF reading somtimes isnt enough and you have to go by reading the plugs.


The car has a 16G wich is a little bigger than a stock turbo and will put down 300plus on boost only. Im going to hit the car with a 100shot at 18psi,im just wanting to get some helpful advice from people on this board since so many of you guys know alot more.





Thanks Joe

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

We had a pair of cars go 13.2-13.3 on the factory T25, who do you know who is going high 11s on a T25?

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

if it is a 2g then get dsmlink for it- tuning is everything. i'd bet you will have 20-40 hours of street and track tuning into the car and like 10-20 wasted bottles of juice before you get it right, but you can easily do it with the proper injectors, timing, fuel octane (BIG deal right there) etc..

the reason nobody is spraying in the dsm community is that they are all cheap bastards. you HAVE to pay if you want to play. an afc tune just isn't going to cut it if you want to spray, and some dsm's react differently than others to a given boost/fuel level. i know mine liked to be run PIG rich at wot, my a/f didn't even read on the dyno wideband- but my plugs were light grey and i got 0-5* of knock so i went with it from there.

the cheap "ghetto" options are to retard the base timing to something like 0* with the connector grounded out, run racegas, colder plugs than the bpr7es' you are probably running with a much smaller gap, and test and tune.

a good friend of mine is in the process of building an auto 1g nitrous car. the motor just went together, and he is going to be hitting it with a BIG shot (like 200-300). stalled, 2 big trans coolers, some modification that makes it act like it has a manual valve body (some electronic modification with the transmission) etc... funny thing is that he gets alot of his info off of here also.

if you want the balance of driveability (at least to and from the track) and being able to spray the car go with link.

BigDaddyZ28

Some pics of the DSM that the wife and I built for her...

Love those Mitsubishi's


IMHO, You would be crazy to spray that car. Get a bigger turbo if you want more boost and save the headache of trying to boost with a turbo and the bottle at the same time...

I am in no way an expert on the DSM yet, as I have only built a few...


Best of luck with your project and keep us updated on how the spray goes if that is the road that you decide to take. I am sure that it CAN be done. The only real question is how hard will it be to do safely.

Doofy

iTrader: (21)

Definetly get the link! That is the key to making one of those cars make power & do it safely. I am not a genius on those cars, but I used one on my buddies car and I was sold on it. Btw, I did stay at holiday inn last night

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

a non-turbo dsm doesn't count bro . nobody cares about what the 420a can hold up to.

trust ME, i've played with them for quite some time now. spray it and you won't be sorry. they are soo goddam hard to tune on just turbo so why not start with spray and go through the same tuning bullshit but get a better end-result?

www.philadelphiadsm.com/forum is one site i frequent. people will help you out there if you don't believe my opinions.

LS1>girlfriend

iTrader: (19)

you could just bolt up a 50 trim, manifold, 3" turbo back, 880cc, and get an afc. will run mid 12"s all day!!

steveb

They make the DSM link for 1g also. I'm a dealer for them and most of the outher DSM stuff if you need anything let me know.

For the record there are 2 14b(stock turbo) car in the 10's.

You want to use the bottle to get the turbo going and shut off 500-1000 rpm's before you shift. Here is a pic of my old motor set up, it made 650 plus awhp and now i just installed it in the new owners car and i'm putting a bottle on it. We are using a 100 shot from 4500-8000 and the car has a 10k rev limit. Its a 77 trim running 35 plus psi. Good luck and if you have any questions feel free to pm me. Sorry i deleated the pics but here is a link to a local dsm club that i posted them on.
Steve

http://newengdsm.org/forums/viewtopi...388&highlight=

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

not even close- im not going to get into it but you are way off with the injector size, and the times.

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

How about...
2nd Gen:
16g
FMIC
550s
12.2 @ 116

steveb

If you add Dsm link with that combo he mention he will be fine. As far as times an awd car would run 11's all day.

I persoally think the Evo 16g is the way to go on a street car and still fast at the track 11.56@121

To tune these car is a little tricky because of there age and any little problem will affect it big time. Good luck.

Steve

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

650's are MORE than enough, but i agree with link you can tune around having injectors that are too big- and they give you room to grow/ run insane boost and racegas. those times sound a little more accurate also

steveb

650cc would be the max to run with the AFC affectively, since it only compensates 50% and the stockers are 450. Most people think they need bigger than 650 but most have other problem making it seem like its the inj. I have 650 in my DD and its running a 50 trim on a stock motor at 24psi and make 386fwhp. I usually reccomend to people 850/950 inj if they are going with the link because it can control inj that big and if they upgrade the turbo they won't need new inj.

Steve

BigDaddyZ28

Look a little closer friend... Our engine is a 4G63 (1st gen), 6 bolt.
We actually own 2 DSM's and have been DSM owners for over 15 yrs now.
Fine cars, IMO.

You didn't catch that?

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

are you kidding? the first pic the intake CLEARLY goes straight to the tb, which any retard can see there is NO turbo there. even a honda guy would know that. if it is a 4g then you wasted a low compression motor (7.8/1) running it n/a.

the second pic it looks like you painted some stuff red.

did you catch THAT buddy?

im going to first ask if you posted the wrong pics. if so then that's cool, no problem. if not im going to ask if you are mentally retarted?

and where the HELL is the timing belt? couldn't figure out he hydrolic tensioner huh? feed all of the slack to the tensioner side, hold it with a prybar and tighten it up. then pull the pin out and you are good to go. no pin? you didn't buy a new one when you did the t-belt huh? live and learn is what i say. 420a is the same btw just in case you happened to have one of those.

BigDaddyZ28

No, The car does NOT have a turbo on it. Built as a daily driver for the wife so don't need one or want one. I have a Camaro for when I want POWER.

Yes, the engine is a 4G63 (not a 420a, the 420a's are flipped around the opposite direction for one thing and did not come on the 1st gen DSM's for another, The 420a is simply not the same engine) The 4g63's are the engines in the turbo DSM's.

Most people who have, "played with them for quite some time now", would know the difference between them.

The more you type the more we all know 'exactly' how smart you are.
Please don't stop as I am getting a really good laugh out of you!

Your 'tips' for setting the T-belt tension were the best!
(Miller tool #MD998767 can be found for $10.00 at NAPA and is much easier than your 'prybar' trick... This is the part number for the tensioner pulley tool with the pins in it. The tensioning tool for holding the tension on the belt is a 8mmx1.25mm threaded rod or bolt...)

Best of luck with your 'prybar method' friend!

anarchy99

iTrader: (7)

Building a nitrous/turbo car is a pain in the ***, but it does have it's perks.... And it's pains, like you mentioned about the plugs. Costs alot of money also.... Have fun.

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

you may be right about the 420a motor being flipped- i don't really know or care. you also are right about the tensioner tool, but i've personally seen people use them tons of times and the belt is still a tad loose when all is said and done, so the prybar method is superior in getting the right belt tension from my experience.

good job "building" that non-turbo low compression motor for the wife! im sure it is much slower than a neon in that shape- WITH the header you put on it . seriously, props bro. your dsm knowledge obviously excedes mine- you even painted the fuel rail to match the manifold and valve cover. expertice!

im done with this also, wasting bandwidth.

krazy4

iTrader: (5)

this guy is doing pretty well for himself
stock T25
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/member.p...s&userid=34436

Mr.Nitrous

iTrader: (51)

Well here's my bit. 91" talon tsi awd stock ported 14b, 2nd gen. ported mani.
on an nx 50 shot, the boost went from 18psi to 24 psi on the boost and gas together. Be careful but it's a real blast. I was on the stock internal w.g. with a man. boost controller. Talk about boost creep, on the 100 shot I had to take off the boost controller and just run straight from the compressor to the wastegate. It went from 8 psi on boost only to 26psi on the spray. It also likes to break the rear axles in a 3 bolt if you use it in 1st gear and hook it up. Keep in mind that this was on a bone stock motor with 38k on it. It went 13.2 on boost with a 3" atr turbo back, 255 pump, act clutch. Also make sure you use atleast 114 if you spry more than a 50 shot to it to be safe.