TWS

iTrader: (63)

Having problems getting my '94 Z28 to hook. With 468 RWTQ, the Wolfe rear sway bar, Flowtech TA, and QA1 shocks etc. etc. are not up to the task alone. (Car has a full-up suspension treatment. I think the only stock components left are the front springs)

On 275/50/15 MT DR's, the car will always spin 'em at San Antonio Raceway. It's either a complete "blow off" or some moderate (but significant) spin.
On the 16" ET Streets, it's pretty much the same story, just not a "second burnout". It has significant spin, but car goes straight.

Short times last time out, trying both sets of tires, netted short times of 1.62 to 1.68. The car should be cutting LOW 1.5's.

On one pass, a few months ago, I had a "freak" launch that was nearly a dead hook and it netted me a 1.55 on the MT DR's. However, while nice, that launch was nowhere near typical.

Have tried various tire pressure and shock settings and the bottom line is that the current tires I have are just not working.

I want to stay with a 26" tire if at all possible. (Have 3.73 rear gears) With that goal in mind, would buying a pair of MT ET Drags be a step up? I have never used actual MT ET Drags and wonder if they would provide significantly more traction than the MT DR's since the magazines and everyone seems to rave about the DR's.

Those who are familiar with 26" ET Drags, please chime in with your thoughts. I'd rather do some "research" by soliciting your opinions than just rushing out and buying a pair of new tires.

TWS

iTrader: (63)

here's a couple pics under my '94. Like I said, it's pretty much a "full blown" suspension treatment that has been checked by Bill Buck and Tony Shepard.

70Stang

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm...You really should be able to hook. I dunno, hopefully someone like madman will step up and give some advice...I would like to see what the LS1 hook masters come up with.

ls1mongrel

iTrader: (32)

Is the track prepped well, are other cars having problems too ?

Big Rick

iTrader: (1)

How many passes are on the Drag Radials? They don't work till about the 4th pass, then they hook like ****'s. They'll hook better then the ET Streets. Put the rear HALS on 6-7 and loosen your fronts up. Whats the pinion angle in relation to the driveshaft? Motor or Nitrous? What RPM you leaving?

TWS

iTrader: (63)

The DR's have plenty of passes on them. If anything, they are "too old" as I bought them in late fall of 2004 I think, so they may be getting a little dry. They recently reached the wear bars but seem to have a good bit of meat left. You are right, though, first trip to the track they couldn't hook. Second trip they were fine. They used to allow my 355 LT1 (361/361 at the wheels) to hook great if track prep was decent. With the stroker motor, they seem to be outmatched.

I've got the fronts on "0" or "1" and the rears I usually start at "4" and experiment up and down if I am not hooking (which is all the time now )

Pinion angle is 2* below the DS and I am running NA currently. Can't get it to hook on motor, so definitely not using the bottle yet. Car has a TCI SSF 3500. I bring it up tight and slam it to the floor on the third amber. I think it flashes all the way up there, but with the car not hooking I am paying more attention to keeping the car straight and don't watch the tach.

I am getting plenty of weight transfer. On launch, the car lifts the front tires 3-4" even when it's spinning. On my one 1.55 short time, it pulled the front wheels up a foot in the air. Ray (Chopstix) was watching my launch on that one and said it was very impressive. Too bad I can't duplicate it.

phoenix

iTrader: (6)

hey TWS do u have any more upder car pics. can i see your true duel set up? i thought with the drive shaft loop i would be able to run true duels?!

Big Rick

iTrader: (1)

Tighten you're rear shocks up more (6-7). Your tires are probably to old also. I've seen the M/T Drag Radials get a lot of passes though, the mustang guys running NMRA Drag Radial are getting anywhere from 25-40 passes out of a pair. My slicks I get about 15 runs max before the 60' starts to go away, 20 passes and it feels like ice.

TWS

iTrader: (63)

Sorry, I don't think I have any pics of that area specifically. The key is, get all of your suspension in place, and THEN do the true duals. I think I avoided a lot of problems that way. I had the true duals custom fabbed to go around all the suspension. I did have one problem though, the duals were made when I had my 355 LT1 in the car. The 385 LT4 has AFR heads and the exahaust side of the AFR heads is a little different angle than the GM castings. So when you bolt up the headers and the exhaust, it causes them to be in a slightly different position. This caused one side of my duals to rattle on the tranny crossmember. I pulled the crossmember off the car, cut off the lip on that side and threw it back in, problem solved.

TWS

iTrader: (63)

I've dialed the shocks in back both up and down, but I value your advice and will try it again with them on 6 or 7. I would only give it about one pass as a trial. If that change didn't work, I'd try something else. So, even though I did try the shocks up there, it wasn't a true test.

I've got a lot more than 40 passes on those tires. If what you say about tire life is true, we are both going to shell out a lot of $ on rubber.

Back to my first question: assuming that there's nothing "wrong" with my MT ET DR's, would stepping up to ET Drags be a big increase in traction? (all other factors being the same of course).

Or... do you think I should just try a fresh pair of the MT DR's? The MT ET Streets that I tried the other night belonged to a buddy and they were damn near brand new. I think he had only had them out 1 or 2 trips to the track prior to me trying them on my car for 2 passes.

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

Is it spinning of the initial hit or hooking then spinning? Have you tried launching off about 1200 and flashing the converter? If so, did it hook then? You should have plenty of tire assuming they aren't too old since your not running too big of a stall. I'm running the 275/40/17 mt dr's and have pretty much the same suspension as you minus the rear sway bar(I got stock still) and I've gone mid 1.5x on them with my heads/small cam ls1 with a PT4000 stall and 3.42's.

TWS

iTrader: (63)

It's spinning on the initial hit. The tires are either "blown off" (spinning wildly) or moderate spin where the car takes off but there is still noticeable slippage. I have been bringing the converter up "tight" to prolly right around 1200 and then nailing it on the 3rd amber. (Sportsman Tree)

I know that part of my problem is less than ideal track prep/surface condition, but still I should be able to hit mid to low 1.5's all day long.

Turbo_6

iTrader: (3)

I'm not an expert, but do know that the bias ply tires like the MT ET Drags have much more give in the sidewall if you are shocking the tires pretty hard. They also have the softer compound than the ET Streets and are available in a couple different rubber compounds considering what you are trying to do with them. That would be the next logical step in my mind. Likely that your track isn't really well prepped either. The other thing you can do is go to the track on a bigger race day rather than a test and tune with the street cars and the prep is better and compare results as well.

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

So I have to ask, have you tried to launch it where you don't just nail it? Maybe you need a driver mod?

Track prep is obviously a huge difference, when I ran a few weeks ago they didn't prep it at all(the sprayer broke), but I still cut a 1.75 60ft on my first launch knowing it wasn't prepped so I had to baby it. Now after prep it went 1.5x's and was dead hooking.

Did the m/t's dead hook on your old setup?

TWS

iTrader: (63)

No driver mod needed. A drag car should be launched hard. If you can't launch it hard, figure out what needs to be changed so that you can. (ie. this thread). I won't be happy until the front wheels are back up in the air.

Yes, track prep can make or break you. I was still cutting 1.62-1.68 on these passes, but I could feel it spinning, my buddy could see it spinning, and the laptop with data logging software that was strapped to my passenger seat confirmed it was spinning.

The MT ET DR's were hooking fine with the old motor. This stroker is a big step up.

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

I say try to borrow someones mt dr's for a pass so that'll help you know if yours are bad. I still think you should be able to get the car to hook like you want on the mt dr's.

Ari G

iTrader: (25)

Have you tried to play with the pinion angle?

TWS

iTrader: (63)

I agree, and that's why I'm a little frustrated. Faster cars than mine are running MT DR's. One thing, however, that needs to be remembered: I'm on the 26" tall tires and most of the really fast cars I've seen with them are running the 28" tall ones. More sidewall to help them launch.

I am really trying to get the car to hook consistently on 26" tires.

TWS

iTrader: (63)

No, haven't really played with it. Tony Shepard and I set it at -2* and called it good. Haven't gone back and messed with it since.

CHRISPY

I would verify the pinion angle again. What air pressure in the tires?

Cheers,
Chris