What the crap? 13.2@106stock--->12.9@109 cam w/full bolt ons??
04-30-2006, 08:17 AM
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What the crap? 13.2@106stock--->12.9@109 cam w/full bolt ons?? Ok..what the hell seriously. Bone stock I was getting my car to run 13.2@106 with 2.2 60fts all night. I have full bolt ons, 4.10s, FMS F14, 28x9x15 Hoosier slicks. I ran 12.9@109 for 5 runs in a row. Yeah, its consistant. But seriously? I just had the car tuned and all. Did decent, 355rwhp unlocked, corrected. I do have a tight converter. WTF? I've spent close to $3500 to go from a 13.2 to 12.9 which I could have done with slicks in the first place. Pretty mad, want to run my car into a wall. Oh..oh..get this. I have ran 2 Evo8's with 450+ awhp, watched them dyno, and took them. Then I ran a 550+ rwhp 03 cobra and he got me by ~4cars. WTF? Seriously, somone want to buy my car for pay off? it aint that much. Its obviously crap so, you know what your getting.
Ski
Mods:
Lid
TB
F14
Pacesetter's ORY
Magnaflow
~2800ish stall(I know..to small. If you have one for sale, let me know)
4.10s
Full tune
28x9x15 Hooser's
Complete suspension setup
Ski
Mods:
Lid
TB
F14
Pacesetter's ORY
Magnaflow
~2800ish stall(I know..to small. If you have one for sale, let me know)
4.10s
Full tune
28x9x15 Hooser's
Complete suspension setup
Last edited by Rebelord; 04-30-2006 at 08:36 AM.
04-30-2006, 09:45 AM
#2
Administrator
Wow...I'm stumped. That's a lot of tire out back, but the 4.10's kind of off set that.
As you mentioned, a 2800 stall converter is real tight...but it should be better than
12.90's. You just got it tuned so we can assume the tune is alright. You're
making enough power to go well beyond 109mph. Anything else you can tell
us?
As you mentioned, a 2800 stall converter is real tight...but it should be better than
12.90's. You just got it tuned so we can assume the tune is alright. You're
making enough power to go well beyond 109mph. Anything else you can tell
us?
04-30-2006, 08:48 PM
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Yep.....I would say the converter in these cars is critical. I would say a bolt on car needs a 4000-4400 converter. There is not really any difference in the driveablity from one converter to the other.
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05-01-2006, 01:42 AM
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Thanks all. I'll be updated my 1st post with timeslip #'s tonight. Tommorow, monday, my tranny is coming out and the converter is going to be replaced. I also get to rebuild my rear since the stock zexel blew out on me. Its really a box of marbles NOW! Got a cheap eaton locker and using some old 3.42s till I get a 12bolt or 9". Now..to get the timeslips...
Ski
Ski
05-01-2006, 10:32 PM
#10
Just to give you some hope, my car is almost the exact same setup, the only difference is a yank SS4000 and my times are in sig. Same cam and bolt ons. I do have a little weight reduction too so that might help you as well. I weigh 3480 with me in the car. Change that converter and you should be running much better.
05-05-2006, 10:34 AM
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Dude,
I am sorry to say this but I think without a scan of what's going on you are probably just going to be stabbing in the dark with all this shotguning of parts. All of the equipment you listed if in good working order should have given you better dyno and track numbers. Bottom line, it sounds like your tune sucks ****. Was it just a dyno tune? Any on the street/strip work? Although the blown up rear end probably didn't help any. Got anybody local who can scan the car (Esp. since it is an auto) and find out what is up?
I am sorry to say this but I think without a scan of what's going on you are probably just going to be stabbing in the dark with all this shotguning of parts. All of the equipment you listed if in good working order should have given you better dyno and track numbers. Bottom line, it sounds like your tune sucks ****. Was it just a dyno tune? Any on the street/strip work? Although the blown up rear end probably didn't help any. Got anybody local who can scan the car (Esp. since it is an auto) and find out what is up?
05-05-2006, 05:29 PM
#14
Originally Posted by Doc
Dude,
I am sorry to say this but I think without a scan of what's going on you are probably just going to be stabbing in the dark with all this shotguning of parts. All of the equipment you listed if in good working order should have given you better dyno and track numbers. Bottom line, it sounds like your tune sucks ****. Was it just a dyno tune? Any on the street/strip work? Although the blown up rear end probably didn't help any. Got anybody local who can scan the car (Esp. since it is an auto) and find out what is up?
I am sorry to say this but I think without a scan of what's going on you are probably just going to be stabbing in the dark with all this shotguning of parts. All of the equipment you listed if in good working order should have given you better dyno and track numbers. Bottom line, it sounds like your tune sucks ****. Was it just a dyno tune? Any on the street/strip work? Although the blown up rear end probably didn't help any. Got anybody local who can scan the car (Esp. since it is an auto) and find out what is up?
05-05-2006, 08:50 PM
#15
I just noticed you didn't say what your new 60's are. That can make a huge difference. When I first did my cam I was traping 109 too but I was still getting 12.2s because my 60's where in the 1.6s. I changed to a different converter, different gears and added a little hp and now I'm trapping higher but am having a hard time hooking. You can still run some good times with a trap of 109 so your tune may be just fine. What was your best 60'?