AC/Heater thing under the hood.
05-08-2006, 09:11 PM
#1
AC/Heater thing under the hood. What is behind the "black box" on the passenger side between the head and the computer? Im sure you cant just unbolt it and pull it out and cover it up with some sheet metal. How hard is it to remove just that and not tear the whole dash apart. Thanks
05-08-2006, 09:32 PM
#2
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that is the heater motor and heater core, you can remove it and sheet over it, yes some of the dash like the glove box will need to come out to see it free.
05-08-2006, 09:42 PM
#3
The a/c evaporator is in there too. Tons of stuff will come out when you pull the glove box and those panels under there.
When you disconnect the heater hoses, you'll need to connect the output and input lines that used to run to the firewall together. After you pull them off, you might want to blow all the old coolant out of the heater core with compressor or something. This way it won't end up in your floorboard.
When you disconnect the heater hoses, you'll need to connect the output and input lines that used to run to the firewall together. After you pull them off, you might want to blow all the old coolant out of the heater core with compressor or something. This way it won't end up in your floorboard.
05-08-2006, 09:51 PM
#4
I have nothing but the bare block in the car now as I am doing H/C 90/90 install so I can see most the bolts. I took off the AC all ready and was just contemplating on unbolting the "black box" there. But, dont know whats involved. I have not used the AC in 2-3 years and the heater only a few times. I was just wanting to add more room up near the passenger side and clean the bay up a little. Anyone have a pic of what it looks like gone?
05-08-2006, 10:04 PM
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05-09-2006, 11:54 AM
#10
There's the fiberglass box on the engine side of the firewall, and a matching plastic one on the dash side. They screw together (off the car) and go through the firewall from the dash side. So to separate them, you have to take the whole shootin' match out from under the dash.
Some folks have cut the fiberglass part off, near the firewall and fabricated a cover plate.
The box on the inside of the car extends all the way across the tranny hump. There is one bolt that goes through the firewall, right behind the engine. (the head of the bolt is on the engine side) Most people just yank the box and break it where that bolt is.
You will need to take the dash loose, if not all the way out, to get to everything.
Some folks have cut the fiberglass part off, near the firewall and fabricated a cover plate.
The box on the inside of the car extends all the way across the tranny hump. There is one bolt that goes through the firewall, right behind the engine. (the head of the bolt is on the engine side) Most people just yank the box and break it where that bolt is.
You will need to take the dash loose, if not all the way out, to get to everything.
05-09-2006, 01:30 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by waterbug1999
So the black box under the hood all comes out thrue the dash...?? Is there a write up on how to take the dash out? lol
removing dash...
there are a couple ways depending on if you just want the dash to come loose, or physically remove it from the car.
if you want to remove it from the car, you need to gut your interior and undue all wire harnesses. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but trust me, it's easier to do that then it is to undue the wireharness from the back of the dash. I didn't believe this either my first time pulling a dash, and I wish I followed this advice and saved alot of time and aggrevation.
Anyway, you will need to pull the side plastic trim (a-pillars, kickpanels, b-pillars/ rear seat trim, and rear hatch trim). All of that is pretty self explanitory. Screws on a-pillars and kickpanels, plastic coat hanger hook on rear seat trim, and plastic clips on the rear hatch trim. You will also need to pull the center console (2 bolts in the storage compartment, 2 up front on either side under the hvac controls.)
You don't need to pull the seats, but it makes maneuvering the dash easier, so I'd recommend it.
Now, start from the back of the car and disconnect your wire harness. You have the ground on the back wall, the connector for the taillights, and the hatch release. Also the connector for the monsoon amp near the spare tire, and the antenna cable, as well as wire harness for power antenna if equipped.
Also disconnect the wire harness from the rear hatch and rear seat speakers. Pull the interior light down, and disconnect the harness for that. You will need to pull the rear of the head liner down to get the wire that's routed up there down (defrost, brack light.) The plastic trim holding it up by the seat belts should just pop out.
Pull the rear seat and lif the carpet up to get to the wire harness going outside the car. It's on the driver side behind the seat. It's pop riveted in, you will need to drill those out. You can then disconnect the harness there (rear abs, tcs, and fuel pump.)
Continue pulling both driver and pasenger side harnesses up along the door sills. There is a ground near the driver seat that needs to come up.
You need to either pull the carpet out, or lift up enough to get to the center console area. You have a ground near the airbag computer, and the connector going into the airbag computer. Also the wire for the driver side seatbelt is run along the center console.
Now, bundel all of this wire harness together with zip ties to make it easier to come out of the car. Now you start pulling the dash.
pull the top plastic piece with the defrost vent, just be careful. It's clipped in along the front, velcro'd along the back.
Pull the 2 underdash plastic panels (they just clip in), and the driver side knee bolster, and the glove box on the passenger side.
You need to pull the steering column out. You have 1 bolt under the hood at the steering linkage (next to the driver side exhaust manifold), and then 3 bolts inside at the firewall. Finally, there's a bracket that you need to take out first under the dash to get to the 2 13mm nuts holding the front of the column up. Lower it slowly, and disconnect the various wireharnessed on the column before pulling out of the car.
Staying on the driver side, you have to disconnect the connectors going to the cruise control / traction control module, the brake and clutch pedal as well. Also the big main harness connector that's actually held in with a 7mm bolt.
On the pass side, you have the 2 connectors that go through the firewall, a connector for the front speakers, as well as a connector for the door locks. Also go the pass side airbag (yellow connector) and the blower fan, vacume lines for the hvac, and the adjustment cable for the hvac. Adjustment cable is held to the bottom of the air-box with one screw.
Now, you can pull the dash. Remove the 13mm nuts on each bottom side above the kickpanel, and the 7mm bolts along the top. Get someone to help remove it, it's a heavy SOB!.
Now, if that sounds like way too much, you may be able to get by just pulling the dash forward and leaving it in the car. Pull the front seats and center console, and sill disconnect all connections and harness tie downs forward of the rear seats. You can leave anything from the b-pillar back still connected. Then, remove the dash in the same way, but just walk it back to the rear seat's and set it down on them.
05-09-2006, 08:14 PM
#15
I did find on "projecttransam.com" (I think that was it) on how to take the dash apart. Made it sound easy as just unscrewing some screws on the under dash lip and a few in the defrost vents. If I can get that up and pulled back some, do you think pulling the blower fan/heater core out will be doable in a day? I dont need/care about the rest of the AC/Heater syatem. I just want to get the engine bay cleaned up and put that aluminum plate on the firewall and call it a day.
05-10-2006, 07:08 AM
#16
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will still have to disconnect several wire connections underthe dash. Without doing this, you can only pull the dash about 3 or 4 inches. Not really enough room to get in there and pull the hvac stuff.