M/T's > 10 bolt
05-13-2006, 01:22 AM
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M/T's > 10 bolt Well I just got back from Cottonwood. Went to try out the new M/T radials I bought. The Nitto's just wouldn't hold the car. First pass was a 7.64@90mph with a 1.70 60ft. Dead hooking no wheelspin. I was like Yeah! Then on the second pass I thought I could push it harder and possibly get a 1.60ish 60ft. I stall to 2500rom on the footbrake and........WHAM! broke, bad broke. Not sure of the damage because I had to leave the car at the track till in the morning. But right now the rearend is locked up tight. Since I was running a girdle I'm hoping its just the gears and not the carrier. I'll know for sure in the morning. In short M/T drag radials kick ***!
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05-13-2006, 11:38 PM
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Well the Posi is fine. Yes it is an Auburn Pro posi. The problem was the 25 broke teeth on the ring gear followed by half of the pinion teeth. Once all that was out it turned fine. right now I have 3.42's under it untill I get some new 3.73's. By the way for all those interested you can make a 3 channel into a 4 channel rear. i did it this morning 
05-14-2006, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 00BLKSS#77
Well the Posi is fine. Yes it is an Auburn Pro posi. The problem was the 25 broke teeth on the ring gear followed by half of the pinion teeth. Once all that was out it turned fine. right now I have 3.42's under it untill I get some new 3.73's. By the way for all those interested you can make a 3 channel into a 4 channel rear. i did it this morning
05-14-2006, 04:42 AM
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Instead of wasting mo' money on the 10 bolt , why not start saving for a 9" ? If you gotta have the car drivable for daily use , it's understandable but why throw good money after bad?
05-14-2006, 02:06 PM
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Yes the traction control still works. In order to make the swap work you have to use the backing plates and axles from the 4 channel.
The reason for the 3.42 instead of saving for a 9 inch is simple. I already had the 3.42 rear. No cost.
I kinda like the 3.42's so i may just put those back in the broke rear. If they'll last longet thats even better!
The reason for the 3.42 instead of saving for a 9 inch is simple. I already had the 3.42 rear. No cost.
I kinda like the 3.42's so i may just put those back in the broke rear. If they'll last longet thats even better!
05-14-2006, 05:26 PM
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More like time for a FORD 9 INCH rearend, lol. Ford does make some pretty good stuff, mine hasn't broken anything yet. BTW, your welcome for the help with the rearend. I've worked on your car more than I've worked on mine, lol.
05-14-2006, 05:36 PM
#15
The higher the gear (lower numerically) the more meat on the ring gear.
I swapped 3.42's out for some 4.11's and damn the ring gear is much thinner.
When I boost it soon... if the diff pulls an "Elvis" I'll just have another $150 spare 10 bolt with 3.23's or 2.73's go in. On a blower car time in gear is better than time out of gear anyway.
If that breaks I'll just add another spare $150 10 bolt.
Still cheaper than $2200 for a 9 inch.
I swapped 3.42's out for some 4.11's and damn the ring gear is much thinner.
When I boost it soon... if the diff pulls an "Elvis" I'll just have another $150 spare 10 bolt with 3.23's or 2.73's go in. On a blower car time in gear is better than time out of gear anyway.
If that breaks I'll just add another spare $150 10 bolt.
Still cheaper than $2200 for a 9 inch.