The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

Hard data preferred please eg. track runs, dyno runs, cfm, etc.
I wanna add this to my Firehawk.
Thanks!

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Honestly, after everything I've seen I like the stock MAF the best. Espeically for A4 cars....

Dope

iTrader: (2)

Definitely the stock MAF.

Dope

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

This response was unexpected. With all the powder-coated, super polished, enlarged MAF's on the market . . . I thought this would have been interesting.

Anyone with H/C??

Thanks for the responses guys!

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

<small>[ December 20, 2002, 09:50 AM: Message edited by: The Dragon ]</small>

2000LS1Z28

After a lot of research, I've found out that the best thing to do is to tune the stock MAF sensor with a MAFT(translator). You'll get the best results this way by being able to adjust the A/F ratio correctly for your set-up.

Although an aftermarket MAF sensor or ends might not hurt on a H/C car(but you'll still need some tuning anyway). So thats why the MAFT is your best bet.

Mike

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I helped a friend put together a H/C + blower (7-8psi of boost) LS1 car that made well over 500rwhp with a conservitive tune, and the stock MAF was still not maxed out. It's a better piece than you might think <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Stock is ussually the best.I ended up with a SLP MA which was calibrated a little richer and helped my setup.

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2000LS1Z28:
<strong>After a lot of research, I've found out that the best thing to do is to tune the stock MAF sensor with a MAFT(translator). You'll get the best results this way by being able to adjust the A/F ratio correctly for your set-up.

Mike</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I have both LS1Edit and MAFT <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I'm gonna be selling the MAFT btw <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

I guess the aftermarket MAF's are more hype than anything :shrug:

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by RPM WS6:
<strong>I helped a friend put together a H/C + blower (7-8psi of boost) LS1 car that made well over 500rwhp with a conservitive tune, and the stock MAF was still not maxed out. It's a better piece than you might think <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">This is a very compelling arguement for sticking with stock <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Unless someone can refute this on a H/C, T, SC, or TT car with proven #'s, I'll stick with stock <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

2edybrd

I have the SLP MAF. If you're an A4, I would not recommend it. When I bought my 4L60E from Yank, I asked them about the MAF, which I already had on, and was told not to use it. Apparently, it gives wierd readings that mess up tranny line pressure. I have confirmed this through personnel experience. With the 85 MM MAF, I would get this wierd little rpm spike between shifts. It was only about 150 rpms, but it got worse when I ran the car hard. I switched back to the stock MAF and the slip has practically disappeared. Now, My stock MAF is partially home ported, so I will probably hit the local junk yards looking for a completly stock maf. If you're a six speed, I don't think a larger maf will hurt you. If you want to buy mine, I wouldn't mind <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

00blkws6

I guess I will chime in with a different viewpoint. I think the Pace LS6 MAF is a great choice. I picked up at least a 10th and 1 mph in the quarter with mine, so take that FWIW!

2edybrd

I agree, the MAF does give a power gain. Just on A4 cars they tend to mess up tranny line pressure. Dragon, do a search in electronics and drivetrain. There are alot of discussions on this.

theblur98ss

iTrader: (71)

I've heard alot of good things about the pace maf on both autos and sticks. Enough that I just bought one to try in the spring. Seems a stock descreened maf is a good choice also. If mod money was tight I think that's what I would do.

2edybrd

weird, Must be just the SLP MAF then. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Gev

Just wanted to give my 2 cents:

I have the granatelli unit on my car and have had no problems with shifting or line pressure. I do not get any weird spikes or anything.

This is how i see it: the aftermarket granatelli unit is bigger and descreened and works just like the stock one by sending the correct numbers to the computer. It doesn't try to trick the computer to give it more power. If you don't want to port and descreen your stock one, then get an aftermarket one like the granatelli and swap it out when needed.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

De-screened stock MAF. I had the GMS which caused the car to run so lean it set hard codes, it also had a surging idle and hard starts which I never had before.
Switched back to the stock unit then the codes and idle problems went away. Also the short and long term fuel trims went back to an acceptable range.

BTW- I have a A4.