Will this combo work?
06-05-2006, 05:53 PM
#1
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Will this combo work? Hi everyone...
I'm thinking of going with the famous combo heads/ cam with 224/224 114LSA and maybe something like patroit heads since i'm in california and i wanta keep everything smog / street legal.
and later on once i saved enough bolt on a STS basic 5 Psi Kit.
Will the higher compression of the LS6 heads be a bad combo for STS turbo? or the 224/224 cam is not ideal for turbo?
Anyone with this setup? What kind of # do you think i'll get?
Thanks!
I'm thinking of going with the famous combo heads/ cam with 224/224 114LSA and maybe something like patroit heads since i'm in california and i wanta keep everything smog / street legal.
and later on once i saved enough bolt on a STS basic 5 Psi Kit.
Will the higher compression of the LS6 heads be a bad combo for STS turbo? or the 224/224 cam is not ideal for turbo?
Anyone with this setup? What kind of # do you think i'll get?
Thanks!
06-05-2006, 06:25 PM
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I'm thinking of the TR224 Cam and the Patriot LS6 Heads... unless there's a better choice? No idea on what the lift but all I can see is people said that's it's proven.... for what i need...
06-05-2006, 10:17 PM
#4
If you are going with a 224 cam I would look into AFR 205s or small bore AFR 225s and possibly have them milled with a cometics gasket. I'm not an AFR wiz, but some guys will chime in and tell you how high you can bump up the CR to be smog legal and work well with the 224 cam. However, I imagine any aftermarket casting with a 205/215 intake runner would work best with the 224 cam over an LS6 casting. It will cost you, but if you plan to turbo it you can afford to get the best set of heads. AFR, Dart, ETP, and now Trickflow.
06-05-2006, 10:22 PM
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For a good bang for the buck, i think running the TR224 cam(or equivalent) with the patriot stage 1 heads, and milling/thinner gasket to bump compression up would be a great combo.
Justin
Justin
06-06-2006, 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by SVT THIS
If you are going with a 224 cam I would look into AFR 205s or small bore AFR 225s and possibly have them milled with a cometics gasket. I'm not an AFR wiz, but some guys will chime in and tell you how high you can bump up the CR to be smog legal and work well with the 224 cam. However, I imagine any aftermarket casting with a 205/215 intake runner would work best with the 224 cam over an LS6 casting. It will cost you, but if you plan to turbo it you can afford to get the best set of heads. AFR, Dart, ETP, and now Trickflow.
Is $7500 a reasonable figure for everything if i install the turbo myself?
06-06-2006, 01:41 AM
#7
You will need a new rear end so I would budget that in as well ($2k). Don't forget forged internals if you plan monster boost (another $2k or so). You will also need a good fuel system to keep up with the power you'll be making, which can creep up to $1k. A GOOD head/cam combo will cost more than $2k. My heads alone will be over $2k.
I would plan on spending at least 10k to PROPERLY turbocharge your car.
I would plan on spending at least 10k to PROPERLY turbocharge your car.
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06-06-2006, 07:54 AM
#8
Check out stuff on the forums, I got a set of really good CNC'd heads for $860 shipped and then I went and bought my "custom" (though it was a copy of someone else's) 224/228 .641/.646" 110*LSA grind from Thunder Racing. $255 from Byunspeed for Patriot springs, and $80 shipped for an LS6 oil pump and LS2 timing chain. I had new cam bearings installed since I had the block out of the car, but that's not required (only $65 anyways). ARP head bolts were $100 shipped from a member. I still need to buy hardened pushrods as I know my stockers probably won't last even the first week of running the new motor. There's another $125-150 (or cheaper if I can wait long enough to buy on the forums and wait for shipping).
That's a tad under $1850, but it doesn't include gaskets, so factor in roughly another $100-150 for gaskets and fluids. I don't have the exact costs for those because I bought all of my engine gaskets and fluids at the same time. You should get the car tuned afterwards, and I'm looking at another $450 for Speed, Inc. to tune my car.
Man, it seemed cheap to me until I just added it all up. So did my motor...I have around $5500 now into my "power parts" and still have a stock bottom end! Though I'm including the price of headers, cat-back, clutch, etc. into that figure. Still need to rebuild my transmission and put a bigger rearend in the car as both of those are on their last legs.
That's a tad under $1850, but it doesn't include gaskets, so factor in roughly another $100-150 for gaskets and fluids. I don't have the exact costs for those because I bought all of my engine gaskets and fluids at the same time. You should get the car tuned afterwards, and I'm looking at another $450 for Speed, Inc. to tune my car.
Man, it seemed cheap to me until I just added it all up. So did my motor...I have around $5500 now into my "power parts" and still have a stock bottom end! Though I'm including the price of headers, cat-back, clutch, etc. into that figure. Still need to rebuild my transmission and put a bigger rearend in the car as both of those are on their last legs.
06-06-2006, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by SVT THIS
You will need a new rear end so I would budget that in as well ($2k). Don't forget forged internals if you plan monster boost (another $2k or so).
What's the rear end good for, HP wise?
Last edited by ls1z01; 06-06-2006 at 11:33 AM.
06-06-2006, 11:51 AM
#10
~200HP and ~300lbft torque 
Just kidding...but I did have one break on me in my 305 TPI car...and I was NOT beating on it at all at the time.
It all depends what kind of tire you run and how you shift. 6-speeds are harder on a rear than an auto is. 10-bolts can take SOME abuse, but not much. I'm sure I'll be toasting mine with my setup. What scares me is that I probably won't shatter it off the line, I'll probably break it on the 2-3 shift or something like that with more stress.
Just kidding...but I did have one break on me in my 305 TPI car...and I was NOT beating on it at all at the time.It all depends what kind of tire you run and how you shift. 6-speeds are harder on a rear than an auto is. 10-bolts can take SOME abuse, but not much. I'm sure I'll be toasting mine with my setup. What scares me is that I probably won't shatter it off the line, I'll probably break it on the 2-3 shift or something like that with more stress.
06-06-2006, 12:22 PM
#11
I bought my Z28 from my dad with 55,000 miles. This car car NEVER abused and taken car of like it was another child. 20,000 miles later the rearend takes a dump. COMPLETELY STOCK motor and STOCK TIRES.
I would still go with forged internals. Just because this isn't a "race car" you are still throwing things at the motor that it wasn't designed for. What will you do when you blow your motor? Spend 2x as much to fix it as it would've cost to prevent it?
I would still go with forged internals. Just because this isn't a "race car" you are still throwing things at the motor that it wasn't designed for. What will you do when you blow your motor? Spend 2x as much to fix it as it would've cost to prevent it?
