ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

I've got 12pt ARP head studs and pulled the heads a couple weeks ago. I'm about to put the heads back on but wanted to make sure that absolutely no coolant seeped down into the spaces around the studs. So, I'm gonna pull each stud and will either vac or put a paper towel into each hole to make sure they're all completely dry. I'm just wondering if I need to put a thread chaser through there a couple times or not. I don't have one and really don't see the need to do so being that the studs have been in there the whole time. I just wanted an OK on this before I go ahead and skip that step that is suggested when first installing the studs.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

I wouldn't bother with any of that.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

You don't think I should pull the studs? When I pulled the heads coolant obviously leaked everywhere and it looked as if there might be enough space around the threads of the studs for coolant to get in there. If there is absolutely no way that coolant could get down in there then I'll gladly skip these steps as the point of the studs was to avoid this process.

xaon

iTrader: (12)

The reason the coolant must be cleaned out on bolts is because it gets underneath the bolts and the bolts "try" to compress the water, ending up cracking the block.

Since your studs will not be threaded down any further and you are instead tightening the nut at the top, there is no way you could run into the problems associated with bolts.

I would not even think to remove my studs and reinstall them.

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

We buy the studs so as to avoid removal and cleaning. Enjoy their functionality!

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Oh I know, I've just had some pretty bad luck in the past with things happening that I never thought would/could. So, I just always take the extra precaution now

PREDATOR-Z

Yeap, no need to remove.
Just lightly check if they are inserted properly, once you feel they bottom, back up 1/4 turn. That is all.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Well, they are all bottomed out right now, so I should back up a quarter turn? Why is this?

PREDATOR-Z

If they didn't budge don't worry. Sometimes some loosen when rmoving the nut.
Bottoming then backing 1/4>1/2 turn is part of install procedure.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

And while we're at it... what are the tq specs for these bad boys. I've heard 70 ft/lb for the final pass on the big ones, but what are the increments? I think I remember something about 30-50-70. Also, what's the torque on the smaller ones?

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

Jon, from my perspective your luck has turned for the better with that locator issue. I agree with the above posts, dont worry about the studs. Blow everything off and get your cylinders and gallies clean, thats all you need to worry about.

Brandon

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Oh yes, I very much agree with you on that one Brandon. And hopefully it shall continue. I've got the deck surface clean as a whistle and am removing the oil buildup from the pistons so everything should be spankin clean once these heads go on. I think I'm gonna spray the cometics with a light coat of copper gasket to make sure they seal as I've had pretty good luck with it in the past.

PREDATOR-Z

Actualy some poeple do this 3 pass thing, but that is not necessary.
It is 70lbs on the big ones and 23 lbs on the small ones using molybdinum lube.
85 lbs if you use 30W oil and/or iron block.
The procedure is actualy trq to spec, untorque, torque again and repeat at least 3 times. Same procedure as for main studs.
The reason is to reduce friction coeficient from one pass to another and getting an actual better true 70 lbs seating.
Just be careful to double check your trq wrench and set it back to 23 lbs when doing the small ones or you'll crack a nut sort of speak

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Predator...when I installed my 12pts, I called ARP since there was so much talk about the process, and they said chase the threads, lube the stud and install finger tight, which should be butting it against the bolt hole bottom. I asked about the .25" back off and they said no. I did their way and no issues, but I can see either way would be safe enough. Just wanted to throw this out there.

I toruqed/loosened 3x as well. I used 35/55/70 on large studs. 15/23 on small ones.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Do you have to do the tq/loosening after the initial install? If so, would it be that I would do the 30/50/70 passes, then back them all off and repeat those 3 steps 3 times? Or is it just torque to 70 and back it off 3 times?

PREDATOR-Z

I trq to 70 and back off 3 times, trq on the 4th
This is done initial install.

ProdriveMS

The reason to Torque/loosen is that the action helps burnish the threads slightly and ensures the nut and stud threads exactly conform to each other. This helps to get a more accurate clamp load from the applied torque. It's very important on the initial install and not a bad idea on reinstalls, since you probably wont be putting each nut back on the exact same stud it came from. This info is directly from the lead engineer at A1 Technologies.

Al

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Well, will hopefully be getting this done tomorrow. The plan is:

Clean the block surface one more time with brake cleaner
Spray the cometics with a light coat of copper spray gasket
ARP moly lube the threads/washers on each
Torque the big nuts down to 30/5070 3x, then final tq on the 4th round
Torque the small nuts to 15/23
Install the rest of the sh*t and

Let me know if anyone differs on these steps.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

OK, still debating on whether I should do the 30/50/70 3x or just torque to 70 3x and then make the final pass...

Lithium

iTrader: (47)

I did 20 40 65 then 65 a couple more times.

Also when I pulled my heads off the studs then took the studs out I found that coolant had gotton into the holes...I really have no idea how but I blew a little bit of coolant out from a few of the holes.