zspot98

iTrader: (87)

Well I was reinstalling my pulley with the longer crank bolt and it went in nice and easy, but when I went to pull the bolt back out it somehow got cross threaded? The bolt is stuck into the crank pretty good since we can't even turn it anymore with a breaker bar on the socket. I guess I am just looking for some advice on if there is anyway to fix this or am I completely F'd. Thanks for all the help. Mike

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Sadly this same things happened to my buddys motor. We tried heating the bolt and tried PB blaster, but the bolt eventually sheared off. Had to drill out what was left of the bolt. It was actually pretty easy to do. Sadly there wasnt enough thread left to reuse, so we drilled a little larger, and tapped for a helicoil. Be patient and youll get through this. Try fire and penetrant first, but chances are the bolt will break and youll have to drill.

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

I've read of this problem too often. Is there a better way to install the pulley? Perhaps heating it up and tapping in on with a mallet and a nicely fitting deep socket?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

There is a threaded rod tool being sold that is the perferred method of installation.

zspot98

iTrader: (87)

Well GuitsBoy you were right. The bolt head finally broke off. It looks as if the bolt itself is coming out at an angle? Can the crank iteslf be tapped while still in the car or is it going to have to come out? Also should I just go and get an easy out and try and get this bolt out? Thanks again for all the help. Mike

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

NO, keep it in the car. You can drill the crank out with progressively larger drill bits. I wouldnt try the easy-out because if that breaks inside there, then you wont be able to drill through the easyout itself. Since it seized up at the threads with no load on it (bolt head wasnt seated) the threads are not going to come out easily. Drilling is really the answer here. make sure you have a compressor to blow out all the chunks, and that youre cutting with wd40 or some other oil as a lubricant on the drill.

under pressure

iTrader: (13)

I do not see any harm in cleaning up and chasing the factory threads first just to survey the extent of the damage. The metric threaded rod seems to be an easy to find hardware or building supply item. I bought a 2 foot piece for under $10. It makes a huge difference when installing the crank hub. Good luck with your repairs.

zspot98

iTrader: (87)

Is there any specific bits I need to get? Thanks, Mike

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

No, no specific drills. Id start with something like a 3/16, then move up to 5/16, then maybe half inch or so. Id get cobalt if you can find them, or atleast titanium nitrite. regular high-speed steel bits might not be hard enough. Once you drill it out, youll have to inspect the threads and see if they can be saved. If not, youll probably need to find a helicoil kit for an m16 - 2 thread. The helicoil kit will come with a custom sized drill, a custom tap and a couple helicoil inserts. The result will be a hard steel insert that will hold the crank bolt no problem.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

hey mike.. that sucks to hear..


use a punch and mark the dead center of the bolt... then start out with a small pilot hole... work your size up larger and larger, ending with the size thats the same as the OD of the bolt threads.... as long as you stay straight, and start in the dead center, this removes the bolt, leaving just a "spring" of threads in there..... its a scary thing to do, but really its the only way to get it out...

DONT use a easy out.. its hardened steel, brittle, and WILL break off in there. then you'll be screwed.

zspot98

iTrader: (87)

Indeed it does, but I guess it will be a fun learning experiance unless I F it up anymore? Then it might be 402 time...Mike

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Dont worry man, in another day or two, its gonna be nothing more t han a story to tell your car buddies. Youll get through it just fine.

jay_99z

iTrader: (5)

Keep us posted Mike. Sorry to hear about it. On the plus side.......it wasn't Travis or me this time.


Seriously.....take your time and you'll get it.

zspot98

iTrader: (87)

Well I called a local performance shop this afternoon and they told me that they were almost posative that they could drill it out and helicoil it for under $200 bucks so I'm thinking about just taking over to someone that has done this before so I don't cause any further damage. I'll keep you posted and hopefully will have it back on the road before next weekend? Thanks for all the help eveyone. Mike

2 SSlow

iTrader: (26)

I will give my advise for pulley re-installation...I had a similar situation, but i got the bolt out of the crank, and cleaned out threads with a tap. You MUST have a M16x2.0 tap before starting the pulley install, as well as a longer crank bolt! Clean the threads evertime you take a bolt out. Before seating the pully, put the pulley in the over @225 degrees for a half out, run outside and slip that thing on as fast as possible. it wont slide on my hand, but it pulls right on with the longer crank bolt. Once its seats, its all down hill. easy as pie...