Dyno'd the car
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Dyno'd the car
Unfortunately, im a slave to work so I had to have my father take my car to the dyno shop since i couldnt make it myself . I would have loved to seen her on the dynojet, but oh well. So with all the mods listed below they were able to get me 309 rwhp (385 at the crank). They say the car should pull about 320 on a cooler day whoopty f@ckin doo. I must say I'm dissapointed with the numbers. The first pull showed 277 rwhp. So they got more than 30 horses more which is cool. Also the car was rated with 275 at the crank from the facotry now it has 385 at the crank which is 110 hp more. Still im dissapointed at the number. I'll let you know the torque numbers later and I probably wont have a graph for you guys damn im slacking. But at least I know what hp im making with this baby cam (crane 227). I was hopin for like 375-385 at the rear. Truly dissapointed. Makes me not want to spend any more money on it but im addicted.
Next up: Torque Converter, New Posi w/3.73s, and Some 555Rs
Next up: Torque Converter, New Posi w/3.73s, and Some 555Rs
Last edited by C_Rules; 06-20-2006 at 12:11 PM.
#4
10 yrs ago b4 i knew anything my 94 vette with heads,cam,pcm pulled 285rwhp this was from a m6, over the years i notice that head and cam combo are a hit a miss with horse pwr output but nitrous and force induction always give you great numbers.
who came up with this combo?
what was your a/f ratio?
what rpm did they run it to?
who came up with this combo?
what was your a/f ratio?
what rpm did they run it to?
#6
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309/363
Max Torque is damn good.
I suggest a more serious cam, Fuel injectors, and dual exhaust.
Lighter wheels help alot too. I like polished aluminum myself.
Thats a good amount of Torque and Hp, with the right suspension/gear/ignition setup, you should be smacking down alot of competition.
You have alot of mods, and a nice heads and cam job, but your mods are all semi-serious.
Forged pistons, rods and crank would be the next step followed very closely by a Procharger.
Then you'd be close to 500 hp, and 8 PSI with your mods would be reliable.
I know this **** is alot of money, but I'd be pretty content with 363 T/q. That means your crank Tq is close to 450 ft/lbs.
Max Torque is damn good.
I suggest a more serious cam, Fuel injectors, and dual exhaust.
Lighter wheels help alot too. I like polished aluminum myself.
Thats a good amount of Torque and Hp, with the right suspension/gear/ignition setup, you should be smacking down alot of competition.
You have alot of mods, and a nice heads and cam job, but your mods are all semi-serious.
Forged pistons, rods and crank would be the next step followed very closely by a Procharger.
Then you'd be close to 500 hp, and 8 PSI with your mods would be reliable.
I know this **** is alot of money, but I'd be pretty content with 363 T/q. That means your crank Tq is close to 450 ft/lbs.
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Originally Posted by burnzilla
309/363
Max Torque is damn good.
I suggest a more serious cam, Fuel injectors, and dual exhaust.
Lighter wheels help alot too. I like polished aluminum myself.
Thats a good amount of Torque and Hp, with the right suspension/gear/ignition setup, you should be smacking down alot of competition.
You have alot of mods, and a nice heads and cam job, but your mods are all semi-serious.
Forged pistons, rods and crank would be the next step followed very closely by a Procharger.
Then you'd be close to 500 hp, and 8 PSI with your mods would be reliable.
I know this **** is alot of money, but I'd be pretty content with 363 T/q. That means your crank Tq is close to 450 ft/lbs.
Max Torque is damn good.
I suggest a more serious cam, Fuel injectors, and dual exhaust.
Lighter wheels help alot too. I like polished aluminum myself.
Thats a good amount of Torque and Hp, with the right suspension/gear/ignition setup, you should be smacking down alot of competition.
You have alot of mods, and a nice heads and cam job, but your mods are all semi-serious.
Forged pistons, rods and crank would be the next step followed very closely by a Procharger.
Then you'd be close to 500 hp, and 8 PSI with your mods would be reliable.
I know this **** is alot of money, but I'd be pretty content with 363 T/q. That means your crank Tq is close to 450 ft/lbs.
well i did like the fact that the car had over 100hp gain at the crank over what the stock rating is. and ur right the mods are semi serious. i know with a bigger cam i'll definitely get some better numbers. i cant complain about the crane 227 though its streetability is nothing short of excellent and the sound is great but bigger numbers require a bigger cam. but until then however i'll be getting a stall, new posi unit w/3.73s, and some 555Rs. plus my opti needs to be switched out for that new msd unit. thank god for this job cause car parts are damn pricey.
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#9
Most people make more power than that w/ just the cam, in fact somebody around here or camaroz28.com is running the 227 with the stock exhaust manifolds and is putting down around 315 rwhp. You're down 20-30 rwhp from what people with similar bolts ons with that cam and stock heads put out on average.
I'm wondering if the head porting/polishing wasn't done well and is actually hurting you, beats me. You're only sitting around 50ish rwhp over what a dead stock LT1 dynos...
I'm wondering if the head porting/polishing wasn't done well and is actually hurting you, beats me. You're only sitting around 50ish rwhp over what a dead stock LT1 dynos...
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Originally Posted by MEAN LT1
Those numbers are on the low side. Couple of things i would replace are those shorty headers and get some long tubes. Also Iwould get a electric water pump and a bigger t/b.
actually i have mids on the car and i have a 58 mm tb. long tubes here in ny would scrape all over the place so im not trying to go that route. electric water pump might help some.
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Correct me if im wrong but arent the Edelbrock's 1-5/8 to a 2inch collector?. Have you looked at some of Arizona Speed and marines mid-length header?. I believe theres are 1 3/4 to a 3inch collector. Also, do you know what your heads flow?.
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Originally Posted by MEAN LT1
Those numbers are on the low side.
And im not talking about basic stuff, like a TB bypass, elbow or Torque Arm.
Dyno machines do differ from each other too, so you have to take that into consideration.
The MSD Opti will help some too.
Who Ported/Polished you heads?
Is your Rearend weak?
Is your Tranny weak?
Is your Stall weak?
It really depends on your heads/cam, how well it was done and how well they work together.
There's some guys on here with just an Intake, LT's, ( nice mids are ok too ) an exhaust and cam getting what you have, about 300 hp to the wheels.
I think your losing about 5%-10% more power than you should be, somewhere in your drivetrain.
Although, maybe I'm wrong.
There's alot of variables here, expescially when it comes to mods.
Get the car running and tuned top notch the way it is now, then go from there.
Good Luck.
And don't be that discouraged, those are very respectable numbers.
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yeah i can agree the more i think of it the more i get angry. i have to get my flow numbers. a speed shop here in ny did my work. they have alot of experience and build good race cars. i have basically the same thing le or ai offers: ported and polished stockers 2.02intake, 1.60exhaust, new valves, comp springs, crane 1.6rr's, and the bronze guideliners. the only thing is i have the crane 227 cam 210/224 112 lsa (489/528 lift), but still i dont think my numbers should be that low. i mean without a tune i was doing 277 rwhp with all my mods come on thats only like 20 more than stock. So after the tune by (IDA automotive in Jersey) they got me 309.
also my tranny and rear are in great condition they're stock but not for long. mean lt1 might be on the right track though those 1-5/8 headers might be killing me.
also my tranny and rear are in great condition they're stock but not for long. mean lt1 might be on the right track though those 1-5/8 headers might be killing me.
#18
I doubt it's the headers, they're not the best out there but people have still made more power than that w/ them without the heads. Like I said earlier somebody on these boards runs the Crane 227 w/ stock exhaust manifolds and stock heads and is putting down 315ish rwhp... The Edelbrocks are way better than the stock manifolds/y-pipe combo... Do you know of any other cars dynoed on that particular dyno to compare to, maybe it reads unusually low?
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Originally Posted by infinitebird
Also, have it scanned and see if you have any knock retard.
it was scanned at the tuners and everything was fine. it sux because maybe if something was wrong i'd fix it and get that extra hp im missing. i think im going for some AS&M long tubes which look more like mids since i need the ground clearance.