streetrod93

iTrader: (8)

here's the deal, i've bought something else to drive, and the camaro is now going to be strictly strip with some street time. i want opinions on the benifit of going with a solid roller setup to accompany my AFR 210's.
if solid doesn't yeild a significant amount above hydraulic i don't see much point in fooling with adjusting valves every so often.

*streetability is not an issue...it's a th350 and will be stalled accordingly.
*the motor is a forged 355 with ~15k on it, staying fuel injected.


thanks for the opinions
jeff

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

With the solid roller your valve float is eliminated. However I wouldn't use the solid roller if you aren't going to rev it past 6800+. Also stock PCM isn't any good after 7000.

streetrod93

iTrader: (8)

that's the one issue i was looking for someone to touch without actually having to ask about it.
i think the motor will mak epower to somewhere areound 6300-6600 range, and i wasn't real sure where you could come into issues with valve float....i was t hinking that a big hydrualic roller along with the hydra-rev kit from AFR that i shouldn't have any issues

Captainofiron

iTrader: (1)

I think you should be fine with hydralic lifters, make sure you get some anti pump up ones and it would be ok, like he said the solids are only better at high rpms when there is a possiblity of the valve "bouncing" off the seat

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

I don't think valve float would be an issue if you want it to peak under 7000. Something like my cam or maybe a tad bigger would probably be about where you want to be on a 355. I would hope mine could peak at 6200.

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Unless you use the most aggressive hydraulic roller lobes in Comp's catalog (or other companies), the modern solid roller will have more area under the curve, and make more power most everywhere, for its Advertised size. The Comp Xtreme Street Roller series and the Lunati Voodoo solid rollers come to mind. They are both very intense ramp series. A typical cam advertised at a tiny 268/274 has an .050" duration of 230/236, and a net lift (1.6rr) of .575"/.584, and revs to 6500 easy. That's an intensity of 38, and the Voodoo ones are even a little more aggressive. With the right springs and good valvetrain geometry, you'll be golden with a solid roller, and adjustments are only every 8K or so. If your motor's making that much power, shouldn't you be inspecting the valvetrain every 8K anyway? The adjustment is like a 1.5 hour job.

Jim

My Site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Not arguing, just curious as to how a solid roller makes more power under the curve.

Captainofiron

iTrader: (1)

Its probably the X-factor, haha just kidding, I dont see how it would make more power either, except for the fact that when the cam lobe pushes up on the lifter the solid lifter will not give and "push" harder while the hydralic lifter would give slightly and not "push" as hard as the solid one, but I still would like to see his explaination

blkchevyz

with your car i think a solid is the way to go. since your already a 3 speed so your not going to taking any long trips in the car.

like deltat said, the ramps are way steeper on a solid cam and gets the valve open sooner.

also your going to have to adjust the rockers that often, its not like its a flat tappit cam, nothings going to be wearing out and throwing off the adjustment.

i'm going solid with my build up... just got to figure out what valve train to run.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

I guess those are all valid points, but I figured the solid roller's only advantage would be in the higher RPMs and streetrod93 wasn't really going that high.

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Not true. They often have a better idle, fatter midrange and a little better top end that the power stays on longer for. A 230/236 solid roller will idle like a 222/228 hydraulic roller and rev like a 238/242 hyd roller. There's a couple companies doing really aggressive hyd rollers that are really close in performance, but I don't see many people running that aggressive a lobe in the hyd rollers. Comp has 2 lines of hi-lift hyd roller lobes - one of them with more lift and more intense lobes that are about the same as a solid roller. All can be ground on an LTx blank. Page 10 here:

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Ca...obeCatalog.pdf

Jim

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Thanks for the insight. Never looked into the solid roller before. Can you give us a lesson in valvetrain physics and/or geometry. I would kinda like to know how it behaves that way.

ToxicTA

"going to be strictly strip with some street time"
My recommendation would be Solid being that your main use for the vehicle is a strip application.

streetrod93

iTrader: (8)

im liking the solid roller more and more i think about it.
more power accross the board...i'm going to have to replace the entire valve train anyway, so it's really no extra cost there. i just wonder what kind of issues i'm going to have with tuning.

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Here's a good article by Hib that shows the difference between a hydraulic flat tappet and a hydraulic roller:

http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm

Like I said, the modern solid roller is even more aggressive than most hydraulic rollers, and will lift and lower the valve faster, increasing the time the valve is allowing meaningful movement of air. All our motors are simply self-powered air pumps, and generally anything that lets them pump more air in the same time at the same speed is a good thing.

Jim