Quickin

Do they usually just quit like...BAM...and thats it the car runs like ***. Because my engine won't stay on and its all misfiring and sputtering abd backfiring. Basically can't drive it unless I want to keep the pedal in it to keep it alive and during acceleration it's just horrible. I think a Ford Focus could out accelerate me.

I changed the spark plugs and fuel filter yesterday and it did nothing.

Also, the 4 passenger side spark plugs were all covered with thick white crap. The 4 drivers side plugs were all covered with burnt black crap.

Thanks.


.

00454sscamaro

id say its probly the o2's if one sides running lean (white ) and the other rich ( black/wet).. its all 4 on the one side and opposite on the other id say that would be it. change em out there fairly cheap if i remeber.. you have any engine codes ? mine threw a code when they went, wanst running bad though.. im guesing you have your rear o2's deleted, and im just guessing but that might be harder for your comp to tell if a sensor goes bad, if you havent thrown a code.

Quickin

I have no codes and YES, my rears are deleted. Cool, I'll a couple. After all they are my original 1998 O2's..."your laugh here". I'm thinking I should have bought some new ones long ago.

Thanks for the info.

.

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

I wouldn't start blowing money on sensors right away. That **** can get expensive quick, and 99% of the time your in the same boat with alot less money. Alot of things can cause the problem. Cam position sensor, crank position sensor, TPS, Knock sensors, and so on. When a O2 goes bad, your car will roll to a limp tune, giving you a set paramiter to get the car home on. You will be down on power, but it shouldn't run bad. Givin a good tuner, your car dosen't even need O2's to work. I would put my money towards the CPS or a knock sensor. I blew a knock sensor once pulling to the line at the track. The car barley made ti to the other end. It also had symptoms that your describing. First thing I would do is find somone with autotap or some kind of logging software.

Quickin

I lost a crankshaft position sensor once and the car wouldn't start for like 10 attempts, than it would start finally and run perfect for a few miles, than it would buck and stall again. This thing now starts every time but just won't stay running without giving it a little gas all the time.

Will a scan tell me which sensor it is thats fried? I assume the scan will also tell me if its an o2 sensor? Will it show up even if they were deleted in the tuning last time?

My o2 sensors are original from 1998 too

.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

I agree on hookin up some software to see what's going on exactly, but my guess would be either an 02 sensor or an exhaust leak before the 02 sensor which can trick it into thinking it's not getting enough gas and will in turn just dump more fuel into the associated bank (hence, fouled/crapped up plugs).

Quickin

Since one sides plugs were completely "white" and the other sides plugs were completely "black", sounds like o2.

I wouldn't think the other sensors would cause that if they failed?????

.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

When mine went bad, the voltage that they were putting out was not fluctuating as much as it should. That's how I know, obviously you will need some software to determine this.

Steel Chicken

iTrader: (3)

how many miles on the original 02 sensors?

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Correct (again). Older O2's switch less and less as they get older and become "lazy". Usually if they just go out, it's because they have become contaminated with leaded gas, coolant,etc.

Quickin

150,000

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Uhhh, I think you gave those a good run for their money. I think it may be time for new ones

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

I don't think they would both let go at the same time. Either way, scanning the car will let you know. I still think "limp home mode" would take over and keep the car docile, unlike what your seeing. Which leads me back to the cam or TPS sensor. Both make the car horrid to drive if there out. Both can also be checked on the scanner. So, get it scanned!

Quickin

Scanning it tomorrow

But remember, which I would think is a tell-tale sign of something, the 4 passenger side spark plugs were cacked up with pure white crud and the 4 on the drivers side were all the same too, but cacked up with pure black crud.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Same thing happened when I had an exhaust leak, the side that leaked was caked with black crap and other side was caked with white.

Quickin

Where was the leak and friggin big was it to be able to do that?

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

It was leaking everywhere before and after the 02 sensors. I have edelbrock LT's (with slip fit collectors, got them when they first came out and welded collectors wasn't readily available) and edelbrock ORY which leaked from the get go when they were installed last December. I pulled the heads a little while ago and had the exhaust hanging for a bit, which obviously stretched out the fittings. I put it all back together and it was leaking so damn bad before the 02's that it would run for a minute then immediately go into limp mode when it went into closed loop. I couldn't even drive it to get it tuned, had to have a friend flatbed it to an exhaust shop where I had the collectors replaced and welded up so they don't leak anymore.

Quickin

Hmm, I'm thinking more and more its just bad o2's than, because I can't drive mine either. Sounds like its going to explode at any second. Hoepfully the scan tells me something.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Yea, felt like only 2 cylinders were firing and the engine was going to shake out of the car onto the street as I babied it home from where I was workin on it.

Quickin

Are all 4 o2 sensors identical?

So if I buy 2 of them from Advance Auto and put them up in the front positions it'll work? Because I'm certain that the tuner deleted the 2 rear sensors.