ACCELR8

I would like to get a little more performance on the street. I plan on keep the same setup as in the signature with the exception of either heads or 4.10 gears in the 10 bolt. I know everyone says that our 10 bolts are weak, but I'm thinking that I should be ok as long as I stay off the track and don't run drag radials (correct me if I'm wrong). I figure both will significantly increase my performance through all the gears, but the 4.10s will make it a little easier to drive (although it's really not an issue now) and will save me a substantial amount of money. What do you think?


Thanks,

Jim

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

You can break a 10 bolt with minimal effort also. I run heads/cam on my stocker, and just don't dump the clutch, but I would do the heads if I were you. That would compliment that F11 nicely!

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

The 4.10s will make a more noticeable difference, but you will have to shift much more often.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

I've seen people break 4.10 gears with street tires. If you saw how ridiculously small the pinion gear is, you'd laugh.

ACCELR8

Thanks for the quick responses!

Which would be more susceptible to breaking, 3.42s in a 10-bolt with heads or 4.10s in a 10-bolt without heads?

Thanks,

Jim

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

7.5 isnt very big either.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

4:10's probably. I would think that just faster movement would help speed the breaking process up. But they are just weak in general. That is the problem like Patrick said because they are "petite".

dug

iTrader: (10)

Since heads and install cost about as much as a 12bolt, why not get a 12bolt with the gears you want? Money invested in a 10bolt is money down the drain when it breaks.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

12 bolt can take a severe beating too. So you might actually have more SOTP power with gears in a better rear.

ACCELR8

Well, I originally considered this, but was talked out of it. I spoke with a guy who builds pro street cars, and is respected in the field, and he told me that installing a 12-bolt and subframe connectors would just transfer a lot of the stress up to the top of the car and with t-tops and no cage I would likely bucket the quarter panels. He recommended putting as much power to the pavement as the street tires could handle (e.g., heads or gears in the 10-bolt) as opposed to hooking-up hard and damaging the body of the car. However, I do not beleive he has ever worked on an F-body, so maybe a 12-bolt and subframe connectors wouldn't be that bad ... I don't know. But that's why I did not consider installing one. Also, if I did heads I would do them myself, so the total install would be considerably cheaper than a 12-bolt (obviously that's dependant on which heads I would buy - which is a whole different topic)

Thank,

Jim

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

Assuming all things are the same a 4.10 gear set will be physically weaker than a 3.42 gear set.

black_z

iTrader: (4)

That guys advice is pretty comical. I would do the 12 bolt with 4.10s

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

That or a 9" with 4.30's Can you figure which mod I can't wait to do?

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

I am going to have to say that one.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Nope. TB Bypas Mod!!! OMGLOLOL GOTCHA!!

.....ok I'll stop posting now.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Lol, you sound like that village idiot....orangeapeel.

blkZ28spt

I voted heads by accident. Hey, it's late....

12 bolt with 4.10s or 4.33s, sticky tires (nitto drag radials, for example) and subframe connectors. Car will be perfectly fine.

How's your clutch?

seth webster

iTrader: (7)

Get the Heads then when you blow that POS 10 bolt all to pieces your forced to upgrade your rearend

blkZ28spt

See, the thing is that not everybody can afford to throw ~$2,500 down at any given time to buy a 12 bolt because they broke the 10 bolt.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

LOSERS!!

I could just barely afford to buy a used stock rear end cover to fix my leaky one