slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

I was given an 88 GTA from a family friend about a year ago, and to make the long story short, he coudlnt find the title and had to apply for a new one. I *FINALLY* got the damn title today, so now i can get plates and drive it!!!

I plan on using this car as my DD and move the Firehawk over to Weekend and GTG Cruise duty only. it does have a few issues that need to be resolved before i can use it as a DD though:

1) the driver's window got smashed out the week i moved to TX, so it needs replacing. i also want to replace the weatherstrips on the windows because too much wind comes through. any suggestions as to what the best company to do this is?

2) car jukes to one side when braking at highway speed. i'm thinking either the caliper bushings needs to be lubed, or the calipers need to be rebuilt. i'm hoping its not the later.

3) car idles very rough when cold and will stall out if you dont keep your foot on the gas a little. problem goes away when it gets up to temp. before the battery died, i was able to pull two codes off the OBD-I: 34 - MAF sensor, and 44 - oxygen sensor (exhaust lean). the original owner believes this might be a broken vacuum line, cuz he had a brief problem with mice in his garage and thinks they might have bit through a vacuum line.

4) occasionally when the motor is warmed up and you're stopped in traffic, the oil pressure dips waaaay low. not quite to the red zone, but not far enough from it to make me not concerned. i'm thinking the oil pump is going out. has anyone replaced an oil pump in an L98 and would be able to give me an idea as to what i'd be getting into to replace it?

5) i would LOVE to run 87 octane in this car, but i'm doubting i will be able to. it does have a hypertech chip (the stage 2 one, i forget the cutesy name they had for it, thermomaster maybe?). I coudln't even run 87 octane in my old 88 305/TBI Trans Am (the black one in my sig), so i seriously doubt an L98 will run on it.

here is a pic!

gun4hire

iTrader: (17)

I've run reg unleaded in all my 3rd gens, and even some 4th gens. Some like it, some dont.

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

maybe retarding the timing would help it out? i wonder if autozone can loan scan tools to read the knock sensors?

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

Nice ride, I really like the third gen cars. Your in luck because they are really easy to work on.

1. Used window, easy to find, lots of third gens in junk yards

2. 1LE Brake upgrade, few folks have done C5 brake swaps

3. Have fun

4. You can replace the factory pump with a high volume oil pump, part is under $70 , L98 is a SBC, internal motor parts are cheap and abundant. The motor will probably have to come out

5. Should run fine on 89, hey that ryhmes

Kewl_Blades

iTrader: (5)

You should be able to read the obd1 inputs with a hand scanner.
The brakes could just be a warped rotor.
Check the idle air control valve and reset if necessary.
If you want to run low octane, set the timing no more than 6 degrees advanced.
If you are going to re-strip the window, might as well get the full kit off of ebay and get it all done at once.

oh yea, congrats on getting the 88 up. I worked on my 91 RS on and off for the past year and it's running like a champ.

gun4hire

iTrader: (17)

Actually, since its been .. what .. 15+ years since the last 3rd gen was made, junk 3rd gen cars are getting harder to find...at least ones with good used parts. Not saying its impossible tho, but having had a '87 Formula up until about 1 yr ago I can say that if you find a good donor - get as much as you can in one shot.

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

unfortunatley, i'm kinda in a time crunch because i'm starting a new job the end of this week. i think i'm gonna get stuck paying to have the window done cuz junk yard scavenging will just take a shitload of time. and then i'm gonna have to dedicate my time to getting the mechanical issues fixed. i looked up the oil pump in the haynes book, and it involves dropping the oil pan...

i also have no tools yet (since they all to my dad back in MA), so i'm gonna have to find someone willing to help me out, which is also a mission all its own.

01 Red WS6

iTrader: (4)

Nice looking car. I've looked for one (red) but I can't seem to find one that is in decent shape.

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

Really, I havent kept up since thirdgen.org lounge, I also havent been to a auto salvage yard in like 5 or so years, but there use to be tons.

Kewl_Blades

iTrader: (5)

There are still some 3rd gens left in lots of DFW area salvage yards.
Search NTTGA.org in the forums. North Texas Third Gen Association.

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

looks like that website is actually NTTGA.net

i will look into it, thanks for the link!

BULLET99Z28

iTrader: (9)

Regarding the octane- U will need to run higher octane and a cooler t-stat with the stage 2 chip,and yes,it is called the Thermomaster. My dad had this setup in is 92 chevy p/u. Cooler t-stat should be used due to the changes in timing and fuel curves. Can't remember exactly,but the compression on the L98 is not real high,somewhere between 9-9.5:1,but withthe chip, i would use higher octane. I believe hypertech recomends the higher ocatane also,specifically with the stage 2 chip

Batmobile/SS

iTrader: (1)

2) Sounds like a bad rubber brake line on the front. The bad line will be on the opposite side of the pull/ Both of my 3rd gens have had this issue. Replace both and don't forget the copper washers or the line will leak

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

yes, the original owner put the 160* t-stat in when he did the chip. the original owner said that the car has had a few things done to it before he bought it. he's not 100% sure, but thinks the TB was ported. he personally had a valve job done when it starting puffing ages ago, so thats a good thing. he also just replaced the entire exhaust like a year or two ago, so it has new cat and muffler. i also think it has a shift kit in it, cuz it shifts crisp as ****!

i'd love to dyno this thing. i know its nowhere close to what an LS1 car or even an LT1 car would be at, but i've always been curious as to what a car like this puts to the wheels. i'll have to check out the next time a local shop does a dyno day

what in particular about the brake line is it that goes bad? is there a way to check visually, like a bulge or tear at the end? the original owner said the brakes were just done not too long ago, so it is indeed possible that the shop that did it fucked up a brake line

Batmobile/SS

iTrader: (1)

Nothing externally to really check for if the line is collapsed or their is blockage inside preventing fluid flow to the caliper. It could be the caliper not working properly also, but my experience has been the line going out first. It's like a $20 part and fairly easy to replace/bleed over a caliper rebuild. You can go braided line also so no issue with a collapsed line in the future. Brakes may have done recently but odds are the lines are original. They seem to be afterthought in doing brake repairs.

Kewl_Blades

iTrader: (5)

DOH...I never saw the change from ORG to NET. Just a favorites link for the past few years.

Brake lines: Check for cracks in the outer rubber lining. If ya want to upgrade them, install StainlessSteel lines.

Latin-Man

nice ride vato!!! gota check it out some time. let me when the next firewater event is taking place, I might be able to swing it. Im thinking about participating

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

do local stores (autozone, pepboys, oreilly's) sell SS lines? i've seen them online, but i plan on working on the car this weekend and won't be able to get them shipped in time

Kewl_Blades

iTrader: (5)

last time I checked, no.
Try any performace shop in the DFW area.

01 Red WS6

iTrader: (4)

Take off the hose and take it to Midwest Hose Supply company in Dallas and they will make you some new ones for cheaper and better material than you can get at an auto parts store