224 cam only good cam for DD and perf?
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224 cam only good cam for DD and perf?
the 224/224 TR car. would that be the only good cam to give me a good RPM range and decent power for a daily driver?
would the 224 cam benefit me the most if I decide to keep my displacement at 346 ci or would it benefit me more with a 402? what I am trying to ask is, if I went with a 402 should I get even a bigger cam, because the bigger disp. would give me more low end torque anyways , so it would be streetable with even a , lets say 232 cam or so?
and if none of those can get answered let me just ask this:
346 DD is there anything better/streetable than a 224 cam? I want to make more power than a 224, which is why I am asking.
Give me some good cams that can get me in the high - mid 11s if I already have full bolt ons on stock 346 bottom end and a T-56 with 3.42 gearing.
would the 224 cam benefit me the most if I decide to keep my displacement at 346 ci or would it benefit me more with a 402? what I am trying to ask is, if I went with a 402 should I get even a bigger cam, because the bigger disp. would give me more low end torque anyways , so it would be streetable with even a , lets say 232 cam or so?
and if none of those can get answered let me just ask this:
346 DD is there anything better/streetable than a 224 cam? I want to make more power than a 224, which is why I am asking.
Give me some good cams that can get me in the high - mid 11s if I already have full bolt ons on stock 346 bottom end and a T-56 with 3.42 gearing.
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streetable is very relative. But i would say that almost everyone would agree that the 224 is a very good DD cam. I would go for a bigger cam but likke i said it is all relative. If you did up the cubes you would definitly want more than a 224.
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what would be a cam that would make an overall 10-15 RWHP more than a 224 cam about 10RWPH throughout the rpm range of after 4000 RPM I would say. and lets say I lose a bit of low end tq under 2000 RPM
does such a cam exist?
does such a cam exist?
#5
I have a Comp XER 224-230 114 lsa in my 383 stroker with stock 241 casting, 11.3:1 compression ratio (I know it's small for a stroker but I love it!!) Very very streetable, almost like stock. When the car is hot, it's very hard to notice the lope at idle but I don't care. Thrust me, I had the TSP giant cam 248-254 112 lsa with stock heads in my engine before this cam and it was a PITA to drive in town even with a good tuning in open loop (too radical cam for my heads and compression ratio setup). My car had a very mean idle with good top end but low torque and midrange were not as good as with the 224-230. Now I can spin my 285 tires a little in third gear by just flooring it at 3000 rpm (4.30 gear), 1st and 2nd gear are useless with street tires . Throttle response is a lot better because of better DCR and better part combination.
The problem I had with the giant cam was driveability and not enough head to get full potential from this cam (With AFR 225 and Fast intake, this thing would have been a lot better than my 224-230 for drag racing). Secret for good torque and power is all in the part combination and the most important thing are the cylinder heads (The hearth of your engine). Area under the curve is more important for a DD than peak torque and horsepower.
I plan to buy ARF 205 or 225 with FAST intake next year and put my TSP giant back in. This will be a good combination for Drag racing but not DD.
My opinion is don't go too big on the cam if you don't have good flowing heads, exhaust and you if want a DD. Go TR224 if 346 (proven cam), do a base porting and raise compression ratio to get your extra 10-15 rwhp. If you go stroker, you can go bigger of course but it depends what a DD is for you.
SSDION
The problem I had with the giant cam was driveability and not enough head to get full potential from this cam (With AFR 225 and Fast intake, this thing would have been a lot better than my 224-230 for drag racing). Secret for good torque and power is all in the part combination and the most important thing are the cylinder heads (The hearth of your engine). Area under the curve is more important for a DD than peak torque and horsepower.
I plan to buy ARF 205 or 225 with FAST intake next year and put my TSP giant back in. This will be a good combination for Drag racing but not DD.
My opinion is don't go too big on the cam if you don't have good flowing heads, exhaust and you if want a DD. Go TR224 if 346 (proven cam), do a base porting and raise compression ratio to get your extra 10-15 rwhp. If you go stroker, you can go bigger of course but it depends what a DD is for you.
SSDION
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Patrick G suggested a 228/232 .588/.592 on a 110LSA +4 for my application.
I asked for something similar as far as a DD+Performance cam, that didn't I didn't want to
spin real high to make power.
I asked for something similar as far as a DD+Performance cam, that didn't I didn't want to
spin real high to make power.
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Originally Posted by Hawk108
streetable is very relative. But i would say that almost everyone would agree that the 224 is a very good DD cam. I would go for a bigger cam but likke i said it is all relative. If you did up the cubes you would definitly want more than a 224.
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So if I remain 346 with stock heads the 224/224 would be good
But If I port my LS1 heads and or buy aftermarket LS1 heads and stroke my LS1 or get a 402, wouldnt the extra displacement make up for the low end torque I lose if I go with a cam in the 230 area?
But If I port my LS1 heads and or buy aftermarket LS1 heads and stroke my LS1 or get a 402, wouldnt the extra displacement make up for the low end torque I lose if I go with a cam in the 230 area?
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I basically want to get into the 11s with a 2002 F body M6. keeping stock disp and heads ( for now) by just changing the cam and springs, but also make the car streetable for a daily driver ( Im in traffic a lot)
so what cam would this be. Im assuming many of you are going to say the 224/224 cam again, but would this have me achieve high 11s? ( Someone already said yes, but I wanna confirm it)
and dont worry about my driving skills, if 1 person has done so with stock cubes and that cam, with stock weight and stock gears. I too can match the performance.
so what cam would this be. Im assuming many of you are going to say the 224/224 cam again, but would this have me achieve high 11s? ( Someone already said yes, but I wanna confirm it)
and dont worry about my driving skills, if 1 person has done so with stock cubes and that cam, with stock weight and stock gears. I too can match the performance.
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i like my TR224 cam, i made 398 to the rear wheels pretty much cam only, with 18in chrome c5 wagon wheels too. And that was with a fucked up motor, have yet to dyno my new motor (same everything, just fully functioning 100% this time.)
1st and most 2nd gear is useless to me even with a gripping spec 3 and $200+ 275/18 yokohamas, just wanted to maybe see how that hits on your !traction-o-meter.
and i daily drive mine too. i really wish i didnt have to tho
1st and most 2nd gear is useless to me even with a gripping spec 3 and $200+ 275/18 yokohamas, just wanted to maybe see how that hits on your !traction-o-meter.
and i daily drive mine too. i really wish i didnt have to tho
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Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
I basically want to get into the 11s with a 2002 F body M6. keeping stock disp and heads ( for now) by just changing the cam and springs, but also make the car streetable for a daily driver ( Im in traffic a lot)
so what cam would this be. Im assuming many of you are going to say the 224/224 cam again, but would this have me achieve high 11s? ( Someone already said yes, but I wanna confirm it)
and dont worry about my driving skills, if 1 person has done so with stock cubes and that cam, with stock weight and stock gears. I too can match the performance.
so what cam would this be. Im assuming many of you are going to say the 224/224 cam again, but would this have me achieve high 11s? ( Someone already said yes, but I wanna confirm it)
and dont worry about my driving skills, if 1 person has done so with stock cubes and that cam, with stock weight and stock gears. I too can match the performance.
A 224 Cam is good but so are alot of other's.
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thats why im still confused also..lol. im leaning towards the MTI X1 cam. my car also is a daily driver. i dont want to run a huge cam anyways. but can the little 224/224 cam hang with cams around the 230ish range from a roll and a dig? or will the 224 cam hang for a split second and then fall off? one thing that alot of people forget is that with a 224 cam it is really easy to tune..
#18
I have a TR 224/224. I plan on tossing it in my stock cube stock headed motor just because I have it. I have done several searches and found that the numbers I can expect with a good exhaust and bolt on's are in the 380rwhp range. The driveability is a relative term. It is all about what you will tolerate. I have found that high 11's to low 12's are the norm with this cam and power range. Yes there are bigger and better choices for a cam only setup. Yes they will make more power and yeild faster times, but at what cost? Loss of drivability, ect, ect... The 224/224 seems to be a good comprimise for those looking for a good all around cam and not wanting to sacrifice much in the way of comfort and civility in stop and go day to day traffic.
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I have a 1990 miata with a ls6 383 powered tr224/224 114 cam with stage 1 ls6 heads and made 423/434 rwhp/tq from my ls1 346 home ported 98 heads which made 384/382 rwhp/torque. My headers are not the tyipcal 4-1 design. I had to make a 4-2-1 to fit my conversion, which compromised some of my exhaust flow. You will make more power with the full lengths. About 15-20 more then I did. Either way, it drives almost like stock, has 40-55 more rwhp across the board, and 50-60 rwtq more then before. My curve was pushed up everywhere, it just falls off about 300 rpm sooner. You can put more cam in it.....but again everythng is a trade off. I am running 3.23 rear gears and the power band works for my gearing and weigh of the car. Combination is the key!!!!!