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cam tool, how does this thing work?

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Old 09-27-2006, 12:36 AM
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Default cam tool, how does this thing work?

I see on the cam tool it has a flat side along the rod. What is that for? Also how does this work? does the rod set below the rollers on the lifters? I was going to try and make some but I didn't know about the flat spot.
Old 09-27-2006, 12:43 AM
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what "cam tool"? i guess you arent talking about the "cam tool" that screws into the camto help install are you?
Old 09-27-2006, 12:45 AM
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no I think hes talking about the tool to keep the lifters up. All you do is slide the two rods into the two holes above where the cam goes (you will see it after you take off the cam cover) and the plate is there to make sure the rods dont go to far. Enjoy not havin gyour lifters fall into the cam valley.
Old 09-27-2006, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by THE_SUPRA
what "cam tool"? i guess you arent talking about the "cam tool" that screws into the camto help install are you?
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...d=526&pcid=171
Old 09-27-2006, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Chin180sx
no I think hes talking about the tool to keep the lifters up. All you do is slide the two rods into the two holes above where the cam goes (you will see it after you take off the cam cover) and the plate is there to make sure the rods dont go to far. Enjoy not havin gyour lifters fall into the cam valley.
won't they hit the lifters when you try to push them in? Or do I need to turn the cam to push the lifters up first? What are the flat spots for on the rods? I don't have the tool so i was going to make some but I didn't know if I have to have the flat spot or not
Old 09-27-2006, 12:57 AM
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Flat Spots aren't needed. Most people use wooden dowels to fit in there. Yes spin the cam a few times to get the lifter up. If the rod gets stuck while going in spin the cam a bit and the lifter that is still down will go up. Good luck.
Old 09-27-2006, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Chin180sx
Flat Spots aren't needed. Most people use wooden dowels to fit in there. Yes spin the cam a few times to get the lifter up. If the rod gets stuck while going in spin the cam a bit and the lifter that is still down will go up. Good luck.
Ahh, I understand. Thanks a bunch
Old 09-27-2006, 01:01 AM
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used the wooden dowels on mine worked flawlessly
Old 09-27-2006, 01:03 AM
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Just had a thought, if the rods are in wouldn't the cam lobe hit the rod if I tried to turn the cam?
Old 09-27-2006, 08:06 AM
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spin the cam to throw the lifters up then insert the rods to keep them up and prevent falling.
Old 09-27-2006, 08:08 AM
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The lifter will go up and stay temporarily, so that when you rotate the cam there will be room to get the rod through.
Old 09-27-2006, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by N4cer
The lifter will go up and stay temporarily, so that when you rotate the cam there will be room to get the rod through.
Part right . part wrong
Yes the lifters go up temp, but the cam has nothing to do with being able to insert the rods. The lifters being lifted out of the way is how you get the rods in. SPIN the cam quickly, snap your wrist and it will throw the lifters up. Insert the rods keep them from falling.
Old 09-27-2006, 10:49 AM
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DO NOT USE WOODEN DOWELS! the bad thing about those is they "can" break off in there and then your really screwed, home depot sells steel rods 5/16" is what you want, wood can leave splinters and it would really suck trying to get half of a wooden dowel out of that little hole. the rods are in a cage type things near the bolts at home depot and lowes, trim them to about 4 inches longer than your cam then taper the end with a bench grinder, cool them off, oil them up and slide them in
Old 09-27-2006, 11:18 AM
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That's good info. Thanks.
Old 09-27-2006, 04:45 PM
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Auto zone sells a fitting/hose attachment that has the spark plug fitting on one end, and a hookup for an air hose on the other. It will puressurize the cylinder one at a time, keeping the valves up.

But this is only if you're trying to swap the springs.

If you're just trying to swap the cam, then remove the rockers, and rods, and use some pin rod magents, autozone has these too.
Old 09-27-2006, 05:37 PM
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A shop told me when i swap my cam to go to a parts store and get some small metal brake line and as you turn the cam push it in until all the lifters are up.
Old 09-27-2006, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by orangefun
A shop told me when i swap my cam to go to a parts store and get some small metal brake line and as you turn the cam push it in until all the lifters are up.
So basicly any rods that will fit in the holes will work? Does it matter if the rods fit loose?
Old 09-27-2006, 07:28 PM
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I plan to do it the old fashioned way. Pull the intake, heads, and lifters before removing cam. That will give me an excuse to port this spare set of heads and get them cut for 2.02/1.575 valves also.
Old 09-27-2006, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mvvette97
So basicly any rods that will fit in the holes will work? Does it matter if the rods fit loose?
Although I'm a bit of a newb, I had a serious problem in this department. I bought the JPR cam install tools and got them lodged in the block. So, the comment about the wood dowels being a bad idea is very, very good advice that you should heed.

That being said, it is okay if whatever you use fits a little loose. The easy way to test it is to spin the cam around as described earlier, slide whatever you're using into the oil passage, and then take a push rod and try to push a couple lifters back down. If they don't go down, then you're in good shape. If you're not sure whether or not they're going down, just put pressure on the push rod and spin the cam at the same time. If you feel the pushrod rising and falling with the spin of the cam, then the tool you're using isn't holding the lifter up.
Old 09-28-2006, 11:00 AM
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guys. 5/16" period and do not use pen magnets, i had one break off and get stuck on the lifter, dont ask how i got it out without pulling the heads (6 hours)



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