My Mcleod Adujustable experience...
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My Mcleod Adujustable experience...
Is it me or is the clutch pedal supposed to come back and slap your foot? Everytime i push it in, it doesn't stick, its just slow coming back out, sometimes it feels like it has a catch in it. Is it supposed to be like that? And its always different. I never know if its gonna catch when i leave a stop light or if its gonna come out nice and smoothly, sucks with a cop next to you.
dunno if i like it.
i just had everything put in, no more than 500 miles ago, new dual disc mcleod clutch, slave, mcleod master cyl, new tranny, and i dunno why its doing this!
dunno if i like it.
i just had everything put in, no more than 500 miles ago, new dual disc mcleod clutch, slave, mcleod master cyl, new tranny, and i dunno why its doing this!
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Check out my newest experience - sounds like the same deal...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...18#post5621418
Try the "mega-easy release" a few times and see if your pedal gets temporarily better-than-usual. I think a slow release is allowing my piston to find its way back up.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...18#post5621418
Try the "mega-easy release" a few times and see if your pedal gets temporarily better-than-usual. I think a slow release is allowing my piston to find its way back up.
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Originally Posted by Machine
Check out my newest experience - sounds like the same deal...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...18#post5621418
Try the "mega-easy release" a few times and see if your pedal gets temporarily better-than-usual. I think a slow release is allowing my piston to find its way back up.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...18#post5621418
Try the "mega-easy release" a few times and see if your pedal gets temporarily better-than-usual. I think a slow release is allowing my piston to find its way back up.
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I have a Mcleods and after 1000 miles with a brand new LS7 clutch, it's starting to crap out.
The pedal is soft for the first 20 mintues of a drive, then it gets normal. During the first 20 minutes, the pedal also sticks
Im having it looked at tomorrow at ECS when they put new gears in
The pedal is soft for the first 20 mintues of a drive, then it gets normal. During the first 20 minutes, the pedal also sticks
Im having it looked at tomorrow at ECS when they put new gears in
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Originally Posted by Phil'sC5vette
I have a Mcleods and after 1000 miles with a brand new LS7 clutch, it's starting to crap out.
The pedal is soft for the first 20 mintues of a drive, then it gets normal. During the first 20 minutes, the pedal also sticks
Im having it looked at tomorrow at ECS when they put new gears in
The pedal is soft for the first 20 mintues of a drive, then it gets normal. During the first 20 minutes, the pedal also sticks
Im having it looked at tomorrow at ECS when they put new gears in
like i said, if i have any more problems, with mine, it will get a factory master back in it.
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
heres what ive found...
if i daily drive my car, the clutch pedal stays nice.
if i let it sit.. it SOMEHOW gets air in the system.
i cant explain it... it started when i put in the Mcleod master cyl....
anyone else notice this??
if i daily drive my car, the clutch pedal stays nice.
if i let it sit.. it SOMEHOW gets air in the system.
i cant explain it... it started when i put in the Mcleod master cyl....
anyone else notice this??
now THAT is interesting. I think these things have more problems than they're worth. I'm almost waiting for mine to crap out on my again.
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Originally Posted by DoesSpeedTurnUon
now THAT is interesting. I think these things have more problems than they're worth. I'm almost waiting for mine to crap out on my again.
when its bled right, it helps ALOT with drag racing.
the pedal feels much better.
and i like that i can adjust where it catches.
now if only the thing didnt mind sitting, it would be kickass..
my car used to be my DD... but ever since i bought a truck, ive only been driving it on the weekends.. and the clutch bleeding thing SUCKS.
im going to try to rebuild it with one of their rebuild kits... im hoping that will fix the issue.
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Originally Posted by DoesSpeedTurnUon
I got a remote bleeder on mine. best move i think i ever made!
i REALLY REALLY wish it was installed.
i dont want to drop the trans just to install it. so im waiting until i do my clutch..
should be in the next month or two.
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
heres what ive found...
if i daily drive my car, the clutch pedal stays nice.
if i let it sit.. it SOMEHOW gets air in the system.
i cant explain it... it started when i put in the Mcleod master cyl....
anyone else notice this??
if i daily drive my car, the clutch pedal stays nice.
if i let it sit.. it SOMEHOW gets air in the system.
i cant explain it... it started when i put in the Mcleod master cyl....
anyone else notice this??
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Mine will 'act' like that, but I don't think it is really air.
Try this a couple times and tell us if it works: At a long stoplight or after you park it..try a full depression of the pedal and ease up so incredibly slow that you can't stand it. Try to feel for the back pressure as you let it up. If you are lifting faster than you have pressure behind it, push partially back down. Do this mega-slow lift until it gets to the top. Check and see if you now have a firm pedal.
This works 1/2 to 1/3 of the time for me and then I have firm pedal for awhile. This is why I don't think it is really air. I think it has something to do with backpressure, the return spring, and/or the seal. I'm not a hydraulics expert, but maybe this can help us all in the direction of a solution. I wonder if others can use this same temporary solution.
Try this a couple times and tell us if it works: At a long stoplight or after you park it..try a full depression of the pedal and ease up so incredibly slow that you can't stand it. Try to feel for the back pressure as you let it up. If you are lifting faster than you have pressure behind it, push partially back down. Do this mega-slow lift until it gets to the top. Check and see if you now have a firm pedal.
This works 1/2 to 1/3 of the time for me and then I have firm pedal for awhile. This is why I don't think it is really air. I think it has something to do with backpressure, the return spring, and/or the seal. I'm not a hydraulics expert, but maybe this can help us all in the direction of a solution. I wonder if others can use this same temporary solution.
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Originally Posted by KCFormula
I have McLeod EVERYTHING, Flywheel, Clutch, Master all of it. Mine does the same thing, when it is cold it catches whereever it wants to. Then when it warms up it usually gets better. I ordered a rebuild kit for my Master this week and hope that solves the problem.
#19
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Well kids, Im home from getting abused by Chris for 8 hours.
First I'd like to thank Marc at ECS for doing the work on my car. The guy works like a mad man.
This is how the day when. I hit the road at 6:15a in the pouring rain. About an hour into the rain, I said to myself, crap, I have a Vararam. My car has never been in the rain. Im glad to report I drove an average of 50 MPH ( on the highway It was 75-80 MPH ) for 4 hours with NO issues at all. I was a Vararam doubter but im not any more !
As I drove, the normal issues came up with the clutch, The first 30 mintues it sucked, and then worked fine.
When I got to ECS, we figured since I was getting new 3:90s, we'd attack the problem from differantal to clutch pedal.
The rear was dropped and Doug banged out the gears while Marc dropped the exhaust, torque tube flex plate, bla bla bla. We could have bled the system and just tried that, but I would have kicked myself in the butt if that didnt fix the problem. The slave was pulled out, and looked normal. When we got to the clutch, it got a little funny when Marc saw 3 forks on the clutch bent in. At that point I was a LS7 clutch hater until Doug came over a second later and told us it comes from the factory that way. You had to be there. Marc saw some fluid around the base of the clutch housing which made him look deeper. The clutch was pulled out and looked normal. Like 2000 miles new. The fly wheel was pulled, and that looked normal. Next the Mcloeds was pulled, It looked normal. Didnt see any fluid on that. At that point, I was pot commited. It was only going to cost about $500.00 more for a new clutch set up. I already paid for the labor. Nothing jumped out as the problem. So to call it safe, we had the whole system out, and replaced everything. My call. I didnt want to try and replace one thing, and something else was the problem. The rear seal was also leaking, so that was replaced. That was the fluid at the base of the housing.
While they were there, I had them change the tranny fluid, install the DTE brace, new C6 shifter and fix a couple little things.
So the bottom line is, your all welcome to guess at what the problem may have been, but it sure did not seem like the LS7 clutch it's self or its installation.
I ended up going with the Textrailia clutch set up and changing all the hydrolics.
I have a slightly used LS7 clutch, master, slave for sale if anyone is interested.
First I'd like to thank Marc at ECS for doing the work on my car. The guy works like a mad man.
This is how the day when. I hit the road at 6:15a in the pouring rain. About an hour into the rain, I said to myself, crap, I have a Vararam. My car has never been in the rain. Im glad to report I drove an average of 50 MPH ( on the highway It was 75-80 MPH ) for 4 hours with NO issues at all. I was a Vararam doubter but im not any more !
As I drove, the normal issues came up with the clutch, The first 30 mintues it sucked, and then worked fine.
When I got to ECS, we figured since I was getting new 3:90s, we'd attack the problem from differantal to clutch pedal.
The rear was dropped and Doug banged out the gears while Marc dropped the exhaust, torque tube flex plate, bla bla bla. We could have bled the system and just tried that, but I would have kicked myself in the butt if that didnt fix the problem. The slave was pulled out, and looked normal. When we got to the clutch, it got a little funny when Marc saw 3 forks on the clutch bent in. At that point I was a LS7 clutch hater until Doug came over a second later and told us it comes from the factory that way. You had to be there. Marc saw some fluid around the base of the clutch housing which made him look deeper. The clutch was pulled out and looked normal. Like 2000 miles new. The fly wheel was pulled, and that looked normal. Next the Mcloeds was pulled, It looked normal. Didnt see any fluid on that. At that point, I was pot commited. It was only going to cost about $500.00 more for a new clutch set up. I already paid for the labor. Nothing jumped out as the problem. So to call it safe, we had the whole system out, and replaced everything. My call. I didnt want to try and replace one thing, and something else was the problem. The rear seal was also leaking, so that was replaced. That was the fluid at the base of the housing.
While they were there, I had them change the tranny fluid, install the DTE brace, new C6 shifter and fix a couple little things.
So the bottom line is, your all welcome to guess at what the problem may have been, but it sure did not seem like the LS7 clutch it's self or its installation.
I ended up going with the Textrailia clutch set up and changing all the hydrolics.
I have a slightly used LS7 clutch, master, slave for sale if anyone is interested.